Scale - Question

Aaron and I had this discussion when we started out in the paper mini biz (even did some research). We realized that most of Jim's models are very large when compared to other 3D figures. Since we were originally trying to match the same scale as other plastic/metal figures we consciously decide to make them a bit smaller then Jim's models. I now understand the decision since Jim's models look very good from a distance (he goes for large inner lines and simple/bright colors) while we were trying to make them look good up close (high detail full painting rather than gradient fills). Sanity Studios' models are closer to true 30mm scale while Jim's can go up to 35mm scale.

I'm more of a traditionalist and like when models can be used with different manufacturer's models. I've even personally scaled some of Jim's models 98% to make them a bit smaller but really there's not much difference when gaming.

ahh no worries, I'll bring my down in size a little so they don't look to far off scale

Back in the dawn of fantasy miniatures gaming (mid- to late-'70s), 25mm figures were actually 25 mm from sole of foot to eye. But scale creep set in because manufacturers wanted their figures to look more powerful on the tabletop than other manufacturers' figures. That's what originally led to 28mm figures. Scale creep has continued. GW 28mm figures are closer to being 33mm figures.

Ral Partha continued for the longest time as 25mm purists, because they didn't want their newer releases to compete with older stock. Eventually they had to give in and increase their scale because ALL their figures looked just too puny next to anybody else's.

It's instructive to compare figures manufactured by GW. 28mm figures that are GW IP look very different from the 28mm figures that are part of the Lord of the Rings IP. I think there was a clause in the contracts somewhere, that the LotR figures had to look like the images in the movies, and could not be made to look like the GW style. The LotR figures are more nearly true 28mm figures.

Miniature gaming figures are not designed to classical proportions. Several features, such as the head and the hands are out of proportion large. The heads are large so that the figure can have a readable face. The hands are large because the weapons are WAY, WAY out of proportion large. The whole figure is chunky, so that it doesn't look like a little wisp on the tabletop.

When Jim Hartman set out to make cardstock figures that look just as good as painted metal or plastic miniatures (at which he succeeded admirably), he had to take these things into account, even if not consciously.

Jim decided to make his figures 30mm from sole to eye, which partially makes up for their 2-dimensionality. Jim designed sketch paper with lines that defined 30mm. If a figure is designed using this paper, and the figure is upright, it will be a true 30mm figure. If the figure is in some more dynamic pose, and the sole and eye distance is maintained, the resulting figure winds up being at a slightly larger scale, similar to GW's 33mm figures.

More later...

Have fun!
Steve

Mesper's figures are true 30mm, but they are more classically proportioned than Jims, and in more dynamic poses, there is less than 30mm between the sole and the eyes. This makes them seem a little smaller.

Usually that doesn't matter, but if I'm planning something where both mesper's and Jim's style figures are involved, and I think it will make a difference, I print mesper's figures out at 111%.

Have even more fun!
Steve