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Post by kane on Dec 26, 2008 10:22:07 GMT -9
Not sure this has been suggested and I have yet to try it myself, but has anyone tried basing their figures flat? By that, I mean gluing the halves together, but not gluing the base tabs together. Then, when its dry, sliding a blade between the two tabs to seperate them along the bottom, folding the halves out and slotting them underneath the top of the base (cutting off the tabs on the base). Alternately, gluing them to a washer or coin using the same technique.
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Dec 26, 2008 13:41:58 GMT -9
Hmmm, interesting thought! I think I'll try that to see what it looks like.
onemonkeybeau
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Post by kane on Dec 26, 2008 18:41:22 GMT -9
Wow! That DOES look good. Thanks!
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Post by godofrandomness on Dec 26, 2008 19:32:09 GMT -9
It does help them look a lot more like "regular" minis. I'd consider changing to that method, but I'm too stubborn about conformity. If my collection goes missing or something, and I have to restart from scratch, I'll change.
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Post by kane on Dec 26, 2008 20:31:15 GMT -9
See, I'm OCD enough to go back and re-base all of mine. Need to do that with some of the older ones that are on the grass bases instead of battlefield ANYWAY.
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Dec 26, 2008 20:31:29 GMT -9
Heh heh... I was thinking the same thing!
onemonkeybeau
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Post by godofrandomness on Dec 26, 2008 23:29:55 GMT -9
See, I'm OCD enough to go back and re-base all of mine. Need to do that with some of the older ones that are on the grass bases instead of battlefield ANYWAY. Part of me wants to since I put all my initial undead on lava flow bases, but since all the bases are super glued on, it's almost less effort to just reprint and make new ones, and I'm far too lazy for that! |
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Post by godofrandomness on Dec 28, 2008 1:43:06 GMT -9
I'm taking a break for the night on editing my penguin mini, so I broke down and decided to rebase my minis using the flat technique. I've got 2 notes:
1. If you plan on changing bases ever in a paper mini's lifetime, NEVER use superglue to attach it, no matter how convienant the brush on stuff is.
2. I find it easier to cut off the fold over tops of the base and glue them on once the mini is in place.
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Post by kane on Jan 4, 2009 11:49:30 GMT -9
...well it seems that once Aleen's Tacky Glue has set, the paper becomes a solid mass of fibers. So, re-basing is right out the window. Guess I will try it on a new set. Say, the reptilians.
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Jan 4, 2009 14:50:55 GMT -9
I know... dang Tacky Glue.
onemonkeybeau
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Post by godofrandomness on Jan 4, 2009 17:09:24 GMT -9
Is tacky glue a decent glue for paper minis? I've been using UHU's liquid glue pen until I left the cap off of it last night, adn now I need a new glue. It's the only thing I found so far that works well for the minis, but it has a problem with curling the bases a little bit. So since I need a new glue pen anyway, I'm willing to consider different stuff.
EDIT: Ok apparently there was some plastic safety plug that I was susposed to have removed before even using the glue pen the first time, but some glue had dried up on it and blocked the flow. After strugging to open it without reading the directions. I just removed the safety cap and now it works again! Lesson learned: read instructions before tearing them off the bottle.
But if tacky glue has less warping, I want to try it for bases anyway.
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Post by kane on Jan 4, 2009 19:05:46 GMT -9
Less warping I do not know, but when it dries, its hard like plastic. Just have to make sure you put on a thin coat and burnish well.
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Post by madkingchristopher on Jan 5, 2009 1:04:16 GMT -9
I also flat bace, even though I was initaly very impressed with OneMonks bace idea. One difference though: I don't cut the tabs off the bace, I just fold em over and glue the whole thing together.
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Post by kane on Jan 5, 2009 11:41:51 GMT -9
So I did finally get to try this on the Reptilians. It looks good. DAMN good. AND I figured out a way to do it to the old minis. Instead of trying to split their tab between the sides, I can simply split it in half down the middle, score it along the feet, and fold half each way. Could also peel off a layer or so of cardboard to make the tab thinner on each side, but thats optional. Should work out just fine! Will post pics ASAP.
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Post by gawd on Jan 5, 2009 13:04:06 GMT -9
Yeah ... pics please. It sounds and looks good, but I'm still not quite sure what you guys are describing. Maybe (pretty please) some process pics too?
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Jan 5, 2009 13:36:09 GMT -9
Great!
Looking forward to those pics!
onemonkeybeau
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Post by godofrandomness on Jan 5, 2009 17:41:25 GMT -9
So I did finally get to try this on the Reptilians. It looks good. d**n good. AND I figured out a way to do it to the old minis. Instead of trying to split their tab between the sides, I can simply split it in half down the middle, score it along the feet, and fold half each way. Could also peel off a layer or so of cardboard to make the tab thinner on each side, but thats optional. Should work out just fine! Will post pics ASAP. I haven't had too many issues doing it to my old miniss. Apparently the way I glue things with my glue pen leaves a small gap at the base of the mini I could slice through anyway, but the few bases I super glued on were much more of a pain though. |
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Post by kane on Jan 24, 2009 9:50:59 GMT -9
Ack! Totally forgot about this. Will post pics ASAP.
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Post by Aestelon on Feb 17, 2009 6:05:56 GMT -9
I've tried doing this to the Deep ones I was assembling yesterday, and while it does look good, I found it better to modify the technique for best results (which I'm still working on achieving, but I think I'm getting there). The main problem I found was that by using thick paper (or thin card in my case), when I tried to stick the tabs under the base surface, the tabs were too thick to really fit well. It closed, but I wasn't really satisfied with the fit. Adding to the fact that I found it very difficult to line up the two halves of the fig no matter how carefully I scored the centreline, I thought I change of tack was in order. So I cut the tabs off entirely, and aligned the halves of the figure manually (by cutting close to the black in a couple of key areas and aligning those. I created new tabs by folding small strips of paper in half (in this case taken from Post-It notes) and gluing these between the two sides of the fig. Then I cut out the figs to the black line and assembled them to the bases as described above, trimming the edges if necessary. I made custom octagonal bases to try and match the texture used on the existing Deep One bases - so there's 6 30mm octagons, 4 25mm, and 2 octagonal 25x50 pill bases. The texture is basically a cork texture I lifted from the Net, on which I dropped the contrast, and raised the brightness and saturation.  When I make figs myself, I'll probably do a version with octagonal bases attached to the feet; that should be more stable and less hassle for me to assemble. |
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Post by godofrandomness on Feb 17, 2009 17:25:01 GMT -9
I think I mentioned this in some other topic here, but at least when doing cardstock, I've found it simpler to just cut off the tabs completely and use tacky glue to glue it to the top of the base. On the base I fold the side flaps downward instead of upward and I cut off the little flaps on the end (the ones that would normally cover the tab on the mob). This does involve editing the file for the bases to fill the center hole with the texture desired, but has been the best way so far to handle it IMO.
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Post by Aestelon on Feb 20, 2009 13:29:34 GMT -9
I'm not sure I get you, GOR - if you're cutting the tabs off the feet, how are you gluing the fig to the base? Are you just running a line of glue onto the base and then holding the fig in it till it sets? I've just re-tried the flat-basing with the first of my Terra Marine Auxiliaries, and (aside from remembering after I've glued the base that I intended to use octagonal ones  ) it's worked out pretty well, despite my previous misgivings about the thickness of the tabs. This time, though, I used thinly-spread PVA instead of the glue stick that I used before, so it's given me more control over where the glue went, as well as a more even coverage, and I think that's helped a lot. For the tabs, I first scored the backs of the tabs where they joined the feet, so it'd be easier to reverse bend them after the figures were folded. I folded the figs, making sure that I didn't glue all the way to the tabs, then once they'd set and I'd cut the fig I wanted out properly, I just sliced off the bottom millimetre or so of the tab, and separated the halves back out. Then I gled the halves of the tab to the inside of the base, and folded the tops over (obviously removing the vertical tabs from the base). I found edging with a felt tip pen pretty cumbersome, so I may try using a fine brush and slightly diluted acrylic. |
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Post by kane on Feb 20, 2009 14:07:08 GMT -9
Easy way to edge around this is to edge before you glue. Thats what I always do!
Sorry I keep forgetting to post pics. Will try and get to that tonight.
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Post by Aestelon on Feb 20, 2009 14:19:59 GMT -9
I'm not sure what you mean there, since you have to glue the fig together before you can cut it out properly, which all before you can edge. Unless you mean gluing it to the base, but the base isn't the problem, it's getting the pen into all the cut-out crevices. A brush should give me more flexibility to get into the little nooks and crannies that I can't reach with my pen.
And yeah, once I've got this basing thing worked out, I'll knock out a couple of photies myself.
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Post by kane on Feb 20, 2009 14:39:35 GMT -9
Oh, I see what your saying. I was thinking the edging on the interior of the flaps as well as under the "feet". Yeah, your right. A brush would be easier.
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Post by godofrandomness on Feb 20, 2009 17:14:50 GMT -9
I'm not sure I get you, GOR - if you're cutting the tabs off the feet, how are you gluing the fig to the base? Are you just running a line of glue onto the base and then holding the fig in it till it sets? I've just re-tried the flat-basing with the first of my Terra Marine Auxiliaries, and (aside from remembering after I've glued the base that I intended to use octagonal ones ) it's worked out pretty well, despite my previous misgivings about the thickness of the tabs. This time, though, I used thinly-spread PVA instead of the glue stick that I used before, so it's given me more control over where the glue went, as well as a more even coverage, and I think that's helped a lot. For the tabs, I first scored the backs of the tabs where they joined the feet, so it'd be easier to reverse bend them after the figures were folded. I folded the figs, making sure that I didn't glue all the way to the tabs, then once they'd set and I'd cut the fig I wanted out properly, I just sliced off the bottom millimetre or so of the tab, and separated the halves back out. Then I gled the halves of the tab to the inside of the base, and folded the tops over (obviously removing the vertical tabs from the base). I found edging with a felt tip pen pretty cumbersome, so I may try using a fine brush and slightly diluted acrylic. I put some tacky glue on the bottom of the figs feet, and press it to the top of the base. I use a quick drying tacky glue from Aleenes, and it so far has proved to hold pretty well. Does that clear it up? I started to do it this way since I had to base the 2.5d dragon, and it worked pretty well, so i continued on basing in this style. |
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Post by Aestelon on Feb 21, 2009 1:26:35 GMT -9
I put some tacky glue on the bottom of the figs feet, and press it to the top of the base. I use a quick drying tacky glue from Aleenes, and it so far has proved to hold pretty well. Does that clear it up? It does indeed. I must admit, I'm surprised it holds considering how little surface contact you must have, but heck, if it works... ;D |
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Feb 21, 2009 11:07:59 GMT -9
Yeah, I did this with the Hybrid Stalkers and they hold up great... I have yet to try it on a 'normal' fig though. I'm kind of afraid to... because I'm afraid it will look too cool and then I'll have to go and redo all 350 figs with flat bases...  onemonkeybeau |
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Post by tonsha on Feb 21, 2009 11:52:41 GMT -9
Well I'm converted two ways. I'm converted to flat basing AND converted to cutting the figures out ON THE LINES !!I used to cut them out very quickly with plenty of white space around them, but after one simple experiment I'm a believer...  Not a great photo but awesome figures - take it from me. Jim, your figures look better and better all the time... DaveA |
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Feb 21, 2009 13:06:55 GMT -9
Nooooooo... Dave, why did you have to go and post that picture...
<sigh>
OK... I'm going got have to try it...
OK, so what did you use for the bottom of the base and did you make up your own textured tops?
And, oh yes, cutting to the line is the ONLY way to go.
onemonkeybeau
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Post by tonsha on Feb 21, 2009 13:32:52 GMT -9
Sorry mate!  I just can't keep it to myself. Well, I used Jim's standard octagonal 40mm bases and removed the 'vertical' tabs that allow you to slip figures in and out. Scored the base as normal. I also inked a coloured line across the middle of the white octagon - just in case the textured halves of the base don't exactly meet (and they probably won't). Cut the tab at the bottom of the figure and scored each half so that one half of the tab folds to the front and the other half to the rear of the figure. Glue the figure to the middle of the white octagon. Fold and glue the textured halves of the base so that they cover the figure tabs. The glue the completed base onto mounting board and cut out the base again when it is all dry. Finally, use a black pen to edge the base. DaveA |
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) it's worked out pretty well, despite my previous misgivings about the thickness of the tabs. This time, though, I used thinly-spread PVA instead of the glue stick that I used before, so it's given me more control over where the glue went, as well as a more even coverage, and I think that's helped a lot.
I just can't keep it to myself.