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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 7, 2009 7:56:37 GMT -9
I'm about to embark on a series of linked Song of Blades scenarios, mainly to teach some new players the game, but also to get some neato pictures of minis and terrain. The board for the first scenario is almost done; I'm also working to get my lighting set up better so I'm not posting grainy-blurry-dark-knife-fight-in-an-alley shots; More and better pictures soon once the games get underway.
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 7, 2009 9:46:14 GMT -9
Very cool! All the browns look very nice together. JIM
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Post by luckyjoe on Aug 8, 2009 6:11:45 GMT -9
That looks great. The minis came out nice, and the houses really look good, also. What is the ground tile from?
Luckyjoe
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 8, 2009 7:05:29 GMT -9
Thanks. The base mat is made up of Eblles Outpost Echo tiles and the cobblestone street texture is from the WOTC treasure trove of free fantasy paper models. The OE mat makes a nice base for the first three scenarios- 2 in the city and 1 in a graveyard. The first game goes tonight so I should have more pics of the game in progress and a battle report tomorrow.
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 8, 2009 7:16:24 GMT -9
One thing I really notice is the drastic contrast between the figures and buildings. I imagine it's the paper they are printed on. I'm thinking I might print all my stuff on matte photo paper just so the textures and colors really stand out. If purchased online in large amounts, matte photo paper is not all that expensive, and the results are worth it in the long run. JIM
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Aug 8, 2009 9:27:37 GMT -9
I totally agree!
Matte paper is the only way to go!
onemonkeybeau
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 8, 2009 11:50:55 GMT -9
I totally agree! Matte paper is the only way to go! onemonkeybeau Hmm, I'm not convinced for big structures with big voids. My concern is that I'd have to do additional internal reinforcing if I used a lighter grade of paper. It also doesn't bother me that the scenery is 'duller' than the figures, I'd rather the figures popped out from their background than blended in. I'll print the multi-part Inn later on matte paper and give it the eyeball.
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Post by silentsquirrel on Aug 10, 2009 2:59:30 GMT -9
I totally agree! Matte paper is the only way to go! onemonkeybeau Hmm, I'm not convinced for big structures with big voids. My concern is that I'd have to do additional internal reinforcing if I used a lighter grade of paper. It also doesn't bother me that the scenery is 'duller' than the figures, I'd rather the figures popped out from their background than blended in. I'll print the multi-part Inn later on matte paper and give it the eyeball. I've done buildings in both 110 lb card stock and matte photo paper and I haven't had any problems at all with how sturdy they are either way. I find that compressing the fold lines with a ball stylus rather than scoring with a hobby knife leads to a sturdier model. Your board looks great, btw!
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 10, 2009 9:51:03 GMT -9
I don't use cut scoring on any models, I'm a pressure score fan. The craft-robo models that I've been doing though use perforations on the score lines. The Canon matte photo paper is gorgeous and really makes the textures on the inn 'pop', no surprise, and it's pretty sturdy once it's all done. Building it as an enclosed volume mounted on a card base really helps too. Hmm, I'll see if I can find a slightly better grade of 110lb, that would make me very happy.
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Post by kane on Aug 10, 2009 13:56:19 GMT -9
I've never got compression scoring to work. It always just pulls apart once I fold.
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 10, 2009 14:05:55 GMT -9
I knew it would make the colors a lot more BOLD! I will only be printing my finished stuff on MATTE PHOTO PAPER from now on.
Purchased in bulk, it's not that expensive. JIM
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Aug 10, 2009 20:34:00 GMT -9
Hey Jim,
Where do you pick up your Matte photo paper in bulk?
onemonkeybeau
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 11, 2009 4:34:51 GMT -9
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 11, 2009 7:38:42 GMT -9
Hmm, I buy mine from Office Depot for $9.95 for a pack of 50, plus they have 2 for 1 deals and discount coupons occasionally. Not sure if they'd give free shipping to Alaska.
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 11, 2009 8:18:12 GMT -9
Yea, I thought I found them cheaper from a bulk paper place, but the per page price ends up being the same. If you can get the 2 for 1 deals, that would be the way to go. JIM
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Post by emergencyoverride on Aug 12, 2009 10:43:44 GMT -9
I get mine at Sam's club 19.99 for 200 sheets. Works out really well. ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 12, 2009 13:52:47 GMT -9
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Post by afet on Aug 15, 2009 6:50:47 GMT -9
Beautiful build! Do you have problems in game play with visibility and bumping the set? I was not familiar with Song of the Blades, so I went looking for info. I found this Wikipedia article, which was informative but needs improvement and some referencing. If anyone who knows the game well wants to improve the article, here's a link to it: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Song_of_Blades_and_Heroes
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 15, 2009 14:26:44 GMT -9
Bumping? Not so much; I purposefully kept the buildings either far apart with a wide street or courtyards, or tucked up tight against each other so that players weren't tempted to try and sneak a mini through a tight alley. I also had everybody wear short-sleeve shirts. The wikipedia article does cover the basics nicely, going into more detail would start to give the mechanics away for free. The Pirate Skeleton warband roster is available in the downloads section of my site, the rest of the warbands should be up either today or tomorrow.
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Post by old squirmydad on Aug 16, 2009 15:05:05 GMT -9
Oh, and all of the buildings are mounted on card with cobblestone textures around the edges, and then attached to the game board with Office Depot Repositionable Adhesive Putty. So they don't move much, even when you carry the game board around the house. Forgot that part.
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