One of the things that is tiring for me to cut out is highly elaborate paper miniature designs with lots of spikes and swirls. I usually just find shortcuts by making straight cuts in the black border and letting the colors in the texturing give the impression of a cuved area. With the craft-robo cutter I've been using the machines blades have been cutting exactly around the line of the profile and getting all of those swirly cuts done that I find so tiring. Here are some examples;
Cavalry cut, then cavalry assembled;
Elder Dragon cut, then assembled;
Carrion Beasts cut, one on the right is an 'oops' with an extra thick border;
That is so cool. I definitely want one of those. Between being able to cut every detail and the crisp look, it makes me want to rebuild all of my previous Minis. I just gotta figure how to get a hold of one.
Post by squirmydad on Aug 10, 2009 11:55:33 GMT -7
Left and right; the beasties on the left were cut by sleepy Eric who forgot to set up the silhouette document correctly and ended up with a thick border on the back side. I left it on the Carrion Beast and it just has a thicker border overall. I manually trimmed it off of the other two. The ones on the right were done by Eric+coffee and are craft-robo cutouts with no corrections.
Post by emergencyoverride on Aug 20, 2009 12:02:43 GMT -7
Hey Eric, how much longer does it take to glue the figures now? I'm used to scoring the page, gluing and burnishing all the figures together, then cutting them out. Was it a big change in your procedure for gluing? It looks like some of the pieces like small arms or spears may give you trouble. I have big ham hands and I'm worried that I would get glue on the good side of the figure trying to line them up. Also, what glue do you use for these? This looks maybe like a job for a good glue pen or stick. Thanks.;D
Glueing takes a tad more time- I used to assemble them with a quick smearing from a glue stick, that doesn't quite work for me now. I find what works easier is to smear my Allene's Tacky glue on one side of the fig and spread it out with a piece of scrap card, then align the top points of the figure and squish them around to line up, then squish downwards to the figures base. The glue-stick grabs very quickly and makes it difficult for me to align things as neatly as I'd like. Any small discrepencies are, of course, buried beneath my edging marker.
I've spent the past few days building my skelly horde;
I was starting on the skeletons with glaives and decided to sweep the table as my workspace had gotten too small. It's a good feeling to have too much in this case. I've still got lots of cavalry, archers, and x-bows to buid and the skeleton pirates, zombies, ghosts and ghouls aren't in this pic. Once I have the horde complete I'll see about doing a nicely staged army shot.
So I have the GSD files for tons of things, I have to wait until Jim reposts the models with their new layouts so that I can match the GSD layout to the pdf layout. I suppose I could post the GSD cutting path files (as they have no value without the associated pdf) and let savvy RoboMaster users like yourself match the paths to the images.
Jim is scheduled to relaunch everything in January though and then myself and LordManimal will be working like banshees to get the GSD files set up. ;D
Post by squirmydad on Jan 29, 2010 16:36:52 GMT -7
Run, run as fast as you can!
The Crypt Worm is mostly a CraftRobo cut job, the teeth were not laid out in a way that would have cut nicely so they were done by hand. I need to make another one now with the head in a different pose.
I didn't put any cut-lines into the teeth, those still work better by hand, IMO.
I never actually thought about leaving cuts out and doing them by hand, that will help me out quite a bit, especially when doing more fiddly models.
Thanks for the tip!
The term I heard (some time ago) for a model that wasn't going to be completely cut out by the robo-cutter was, "machine-cutter assisted". A bit wordy but it does let people know they have a tiny bit of cutting work to do themselves.