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Post by triopticon on Oct 21, 2008 5:35:53 GMT -9
I am thinking of purchasing some of the Zeroid figures but I was wondering what people use to weigh the figures down? A penny on the bottom or inside the base (before you fold and glue it)? I was going to use the free square 25mm bases as I think they'd be easier/quicker to cut...
Thanks.
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Post by onemonkeybeau on Oct 21, 2008 12:05:10 GMT -9
Hey Triopticon! Welcome to the forums! Here's what I use on almost all of my models to add weight, not to mention the added ability of magnetism allows for some knock and sneeze-proof gaming www.litkoaero.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GMB041-50&Category_Code=MB_SB_25The above link is for 50 square 25mm bases... I'd suggest buying the Heavy Duty Magnetic Base Bottoms for an extra $2 you're getting a lot of heavy duty-ness! Plus, they're peel and stick... so they are super easy to attach! You can of course buy more... or less... if you want. Maybe start with 10, see if you like them and then go from there. onemonkebeau
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Post by abaddonwormwood on Oct 21, 2008 14:11:45 GMT -9
For items that are not going to be ranked up I would head for some Matte Board (used in picture framing). Has a 2mm profile but is more dense than foamcore lending weight to your figures.
Also you could go the metal shapes... kind of depends on your budget for postage and the like.
Lord Abaddon of Wormwood
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Post by tugunmojo on Oct 21, 2008 16:32:58 GMT -9
Basing onto foamboard works well for me. Glueing a penny is a cheap way as well--costs about . . . 1 cent.
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Post by triopticon on Oct 22, 2008 8:26:45 GMT -9
Thanks for the welcome and the info. Are there any pictures of these actual bases? The Litko site doesn't seem to have actual pictures. Thanks.
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Post by Max Bodycount on Oct 22, 2008 10:43:12 GMT -9
Unfortunately, pictures of bases are kinda boring to most people. I have some Litko plywood bases, though: These are 3mm plywood 20x20mm bases with rounded corners (my preference). next to a standard Games Workshop 20mm base from my Skaven army in progress). They work well next to each other, and I even bought 20x80mm rectangular bases for group basing. In the foreground is the flex magnet cut to the same base size. It only adds another 0.5mm height to the base. I highly recommend the magnetic basing and, yes, it is sticky on one side. These are 1"x1.5" 1mm plywood bases I am using for status tokens for Fire As She Bears, a Napoleonic naval game. They are quite a bit thinner, and you can see that three to stack up to a regular base height. Here is a 3" 3mm plywood octagonal base intended for Fire As She Bears ship models, placed next to a 28mm Reaper guardsman. This picture shows a 20x20mm 3mm plywood base next to a standard 15mm historical base (a Spears element for my DBA Spartan army, all Xyston figures). A regular steel base with magnet stuff underneath (bought at Wal-Mart in the craft aisles). And my personal favorite for One Monk figures: foamcore. At 4.5mm high it stand well next to a regular miniature and is cheap to boot! If you are not unit-basing the stuff--skirmish style, that is--this is a great option. You can also glue Jim's new textures to them for added appeal. (I have some pictures in this topic area related to DBA and HOTT that might help, too.) Just figure out how exactly you want to use them and the basing options are much more clear at that point. While I am using my skeletons for both skirmish and unit games, I hope to have enough done eventually that I can have distinct sets for multiple games. At these prices, all it costs is my labor!
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Post by Max Bodycount on Oct 22, 2008 10:45:57 GMT -9
Although if you are getting the Zeroids for a WH40K game (or something like it) then a penny under a standard One Monk base is a great way to start and play without spending a lot of money.
Once you have a set, I encourage you to invest in some Litko bases since they are very accurate and reasonably priced if you buy in bulk. Just buy the flex steel bases and stick them to the bottom of the One Monk bases for aesthetic purposes.
Hope all this helps!
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Post by squirmydad on Oct 22, 2008 13:24:59 GMT -9
Ha! thanks for the free advertisement. It also helps that I design everything at Litko.
If you need some samples of the materials, just fire me an email at my work address, jim@litkoaero.com with your address and I'll mail you some, that goes for anyone. JIM
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Post by fwhitfield on Oct 26, 2008 14:16:30 GMT -9
I have a jar full ready for use, another way of getting rid of all those pennies i dont use.
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Post by madkingchristopher on Jan 29, 2009 2:23:46 GMT -9
Our friend over at Print and Play podcast printandplay.blogspot.com/ has an awsome idea for bacing games. Vinyl floor tiles, Heavy, Sticky on the back, designed to take a beating. Next chance I get, I'm head'n to my local Hardware store!
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Post by silentsquirrel on Jan 29, 2009 9:16:24 GMT -9
Our friend over at Print and Play podcast printandplay.blogspot.com/ has an awsome idea for bacing games. Vinyl floor tiles, Heavy, Sticky on the back, designed to take a beating. Next chance I get, I'm head'n to my local Hardware store! Yeah, FNH used them (I believe) when making a few boards for Valor & Victory as well. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm considering using tiles to make bases for my new undead army. It's definitely worth experimenting with them, as they are quite cheap.
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Post by silentsquirrel on Jan 29, 2009 11:03:45 GMT -9
Update from above: I have tried a floor tile for both figure bases and the bottoms of movement trays. They work great! They add a nice weight to the figures and trays and will certainly be durable.
FYI, I chose a fairly flexible tile for this project so it would be easier to cut. For the figure bases, I measured out a 20mm wide strip and cut it. I found that mounting the figure to its paper base first was best. I then stuck the figure/base combo to the adhesive side of the tile strip and cut where appropriate. Then I just edged the tile base and the figure was done. Very easy and cheap to boot.
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Post by silentsquirrel on Jan 31, 2009 7:45:42 GMT -9
Just an update: I have started building an Undead army and have constructed an Undead Sword Infantry regiment using the floor-tile basing material. The completed regiment in its tray is heavy and won't topple over at all. Further, the heavy weight of the tile keeps the figures from shifting around in their movement trays very well, which is a bonus. It's certainly no substitute for magnets, but it works great.
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