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Post by lordmanimal on Sept 18, 2009 17:44:30 GMT -9
Got mine in tonight, and doing OneMonk's elves as my first set of cuts. I've churned out about 10 pages in a little over a half hour. Just print, stick em on a carrier sheet, and pop em out. It's quite literally amazing. I had to play with the depth settings (which are incredibly easy to use) but that was it. The important thing to remember is to align OneMonk's "dotted" corner into the upper right (I had mine turned around the first attempt). Aside from that, you don't do a thing but kick back and surf the web or assemble the sheet before while the next one cuts out. Honestly, it seems that if I go breakneck with them, I can get a sheet printed and glued in about 10 minutes total. You just pop out the figures from the paper, roll over em with a glue stick, set em under a book or what-have-you, and grab the next sheet, which is done at just about the same time.
This is truly a golden age for cardstock modeling. All that I'm missing is some "high elf" figures that I could sub in for casters and special hero's for the army, as well as some bolt throwers *HINT HINT*.... ;D
Now, if I could only find the "how to" I saw a while ago on how to make GSD files... wasn't that Squirmydad that made them?
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Post by old squirmydad on Sept 18, 2009 18:49:18 GMT -9
Fun ain't it? ;D I didn't do the Craft Robo tutorials, that was MelEbbles, I just study at the feet of the masters. ;D He does have a fair amount of "how-to" material in the Craft-Robo section of his forum, but no longer a tutorial per se. One easy route is to open the GSD file for an Ebbles model, rename it (Ebbles_masterlayout.gsd), erase everything, save, done. Then go look at output settings for the different lines and then when you are drawing cut and score lines over everything just use the same line styles. For models with lots of straight cuts just use the polyline to trace around (point-to-point-to point) and use the edit point tool to maneuver any errant points into the correct positions. For figures and highly organic curvy shapes I use the autotrace tool. For that to work effectively though it's best to just have a black silhouette of the model/figures (for figures you want to build a silhouette based on the FRONT of the figure because of the thinner border. It also works really well to have your slhouette 2px smaller than the figure outline so that the cutlines will end up just inside the figure border. I keep meaning to detail some of this in my bloggy-thingy here...but I'm kinda busy making things. Always feel free to ask questions though.
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