I agree. I would love to see a bridge made up of two ramps and a center piece. Then you could add in as many center pieces as you like.
A drawbridge would be amazing, and not all that difficult, actually. The standard ramp could lead up to a 3x6 raised piece surmounted by a 3x6 drawbridge building with an arch at it's center. The actual bridge raising mechanism could function just like medieval drawbridges: etc.usf.edu/clipart/25100/25144/draw_bridge_25144.htm
The drawbridge building piece could be used at the middle of a regular bridge, to facilitate river travel by masted ships, or as part of the Medieval city walls.
I like the high ground tiles well enough, but I am wondering if there is a trick to getting them to come out with flat tops without resorting to foam board.
Mine are plenty strong enough but came out bowed down in the middle.
I have made four 1" high tiles so far from 110 Lb card stock. I strengthened the sides by folding over and gluing the bottom tab instead of cutting them off and strengthened the top by gluing a slightly smaller sheet to the bottom after attaching the sides.
I assembled by attaching all the sides to the bottom side of the top piece, gluing the piece to strengthen the top, and then folding the sides in (scored ahead of time of course) and gluing the corners.
Perhaps I should glue the sides together first and then attach to the top, or is there something else I am missing? I have also thought about putting something really heavy on top while they dry flat (or maybe using a dry iron) before folding the sides.
Thanks for your replies.
edit: just in case it matters, I use Algeen's original glue and burnish with a rolling pin, use a piece of baking parchment to cover the top and bottom, before rolling up the sides. I apply the glue in a fine spiral bead but don't spread before rolling. I did take a piece apart to make sure the glue was well spread out from the rolling and it look good.
Last Edit: Jan 19, 2012 7:29:19 GMT -9 by aviphysics
Here's what I recommend to keep the tops from bowing:
Use two layers of cardstock. To join these, use a glue stick (or spray glue if you're brave). Aleene's is probably too wet for covering large areas like that, even with a brayer/roller. When applying the glue stick, just go quickly around the edges and a quick zig-zag in the middle. Flatten it under a heavy book for a few minutes.
The cardstock sheets should fuse and remain flat. If they're still not sturdy enough, a third sheet of cardstock might be needed. But I think you'll be okay with two.
If you need some reinforcement inside the tile, I think the set includes some blank side-wall pieces that can be printed on cardstock and placed inside.
Post by josedominguez on Jan 19, 2012 8:27:30 GMT -9
It may be the strengthening that's making them bowed.... the more water based glue you use the more you risk warping. May be better to leave out the strengthening layers and use support posts instead. IF you do want to add layers, then spray adhesive is much better as it's solvent based and the card doesn't warp.
Also, if you burnish too much you can add a curve to the card.... really useful when you want something to roll into a cylinder, but not so good when you want it flat. Try just using scrap paper over the tile and giving it a press with the flat of your hand (or leave some books on top) using a rolling pin will encourage paper or card to curve in the direction of the roll. Same technique used to curve sheet steel!
Anyway, try it without the extra layer... you'll probably be surprised. I've made Loads of Dave's stuff and have never needed to veer from the instructions. it all works out great
Thanks for the quick replies. Can't wait to get home and try it out. I have some experience with spray glue from my old photo shop days so I will try that first. Should I use that for attaching the sides to the top as well?
Last Edit: Jan 19, 2012 9:02:28 GMT -9 by aviphysics
Post by josedominguez on Jan 19, 2012 8:58:04 GMT -9
It's a huge advantage when sticking anything large down or laminating layers.... any glue with moisture in it will naturaly make the paper/card warp as it soaks into one side and swells the material unevenly. Same reason you presoak paper before watercolour painting. There's no water in spray glue so it works much better. I'm currently working at 15mm and I've replaced foam board with magnetic paper which is nice and heavy but really thin.
Have you tried glue-pens? They seem to have a lot less moisture in them and work really well for figures and buildings. I use UHU ones for stuff that's too precise to use spray mount on.
seems like 4 sqft (equivalent to our play area) is about $55 for either steel or magnetic sheets. Tempting to cover the play area in the steel sheet and put all the buildings and terrain on magnetic basis. Way more expensive then cardstock though. The whole reason I decided to make paper terrain vs by something like WorlWorks was so it was cheep enough that I wouldn't mind if it got ruined (Also so I wouldn't be stuck with their strict 3"x3" building tiles and windowless walls.)
note: My new papercraft hobby is all about adding more variety to our Mordhiem games.
Last Edit: Jan 19, 2012 10:28:06 GMT -9 by aviphysics
Post by josedominguez on Jan 20, 2012 2:00:19 GMT -9
The tower is awesome and becomes a key terrain piece whenever it's used (Hochland long rifle!). I'd start with a tower and one of the ruined houses then lots of 'crosspiece ruins' they are really flexible and by arranging them cleverly the board rapidly starts to look like a huge complex ruin. They are one of the cleverest, easiest to assembel terrain pieces I've seen. It's only when you've made a few up and laid them out that you see it. Four or five archways in a row look like a ruined cathedral, one archway and a flat wall and you've got a cottage.
Spray gluing and pressing with a book worked great. I highly recommend baking parchment when pressing pieces together as glue doesn't seem to stick to it hardly at all.
I just noticed yesterday that my inkjet (Canon mx860), even on the fast setting, seems to get the cardstock wet enough that it bends slightly. Spay gluing the printed sheet to another sheet of card stock helped flatten it out. In the future, I think I will switch to printing on paper and attaching that to card stock.
I also started on the Wrecked House. These sheets really came warped off the printer (I think it uses a lot more ink). After gluing the backs to the fronts and pressing, everything seem to flatten out perfectly. Also, the cut lines were really hard to see in many spots (perhaps printing on normal paper will help this). On my computer screen they are easy to see so I think it is a printing problem.
BTW, I love all the little extra bits. I am gonna make a whole sheet of the small crates (that came with the wrecked house) to replace the treasure tokens we have been using. We tested the bridge that came with high grounds with our heaviest 30mm metal ork figure (thing must weigh at least a pound) and it didn't flex even a little ;D. Bridge was built to spec without any reinforcement.
Last Edit: Jan 20, 2012 7:50:05 GMT -9 by aviphysics
woosh: also, where can i find cool ships and mechs? im looking particularly for any spider tanks or spider mechs. ive seen the site with all the mechwarrior papercrafts and ive made a couple of those but none of them are especially spider-like
Apr 7, 2019 12:38:49 GMT -9
woosh: ebbles sent me here when i asked about his ud41 utility dropship, and that hed seen a mod that had 4 engines, which id like to try
Apr 7, 2019 12:37:22 GMT -9
woosh: i was typing up a thread and it said it was too big. soooo whatever
Apr 7, 2019 12:36:03 GMT -9
Vermin King: Sorry, long day yesterday ...
Apr 7, 2019 4:37:09 GMT -9
woosh: is anyone currently online?
Apr 6, 2019 19:10:30 GMT -9
woosh: hello! i am new. im currently typing up a thread in the 'say hi' forum
Apr 6, 2019 19:09:52 GMT -9
okumarts: ANYONE can do it!
Apr 2, 2019 9:46:48 GMT -9
chiefasaur: Sweet tutorial! Now I know how to make paper minis ;P
Apr 1, 2019 19:15:04 GMT -9
oldschooldm: Yup. More power to anyone who tries it. It will only whet the appetite for people who want paper minis that were designed to be paper minis. :-) Fronts and Backs FOREVER! :-) [... it's bait, don't bite it! ... ]
Mar 25, 2019 8:13:22 GMT -9
cowboyleland: Now I have seen it. It doesn't advance our hobby, but anyone with half a brain who wanted 2nd rate figures could easily figure this out for themselves so I guess he isn't doing any harm.
Mar 19, 2019 17:53:59 GMT -9
berneart76: well, this is fun, (not) transferring all my papercrafting sets into the cloud. The stuff I got from DriveTrhruRPG was simple with their library desktop app,but my other stuff, sometimes with multiple duplicate copies is entertaining.
Mar 1, 2019 15:44:32 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King I usually use a mix of drybrush/watercolor/photocopy and occasionally posterizing at different levels of opacity.
Feb 26, 2019 20:46:54 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King, that's similar to the enhancing that I do on my texturing. I've found that sometimes I need to scale up or scale down the image (usually by 50 or 25 percent down or 200 or 300 percent up) to make get the enhancements to look "right"
Feb 26, 2019 20:44:53 GMT -9
Vermin King: On the zebras, I did multiple enhancements and cartoon filters and used them at 100%, and they still didn't look that different than the photos
Feb 26, 2019 12:27:26 GMT -9
Vermin King: When I make a figure or terrain piece based on a photo, I clean it up and align things to look 'right', then I create another layer and do enhancing and cartoonizing on it. I then adjust opacity over the photo image until it looks good. On the zebras,
Feb 26, 2019 12:26:35 GMT -9
Vermin King: berneart76, do you mean giving them green or purple manes and tails? and a few piercings? maybe a cig hanging out of their mouths?
Feb 26, 2019 12:24:18 GMT -9