That's what I use to make my buildings. You have to be quick and precise. Any error in alignment of the tabs is very permanent. And a surface that has CA in it can't be glued again even if you can get the glued surfaces apart. Glued fingers is a small part of the challenge.
Let's say that it adds an element of adrenalin to the proccess.
Post by josedominguez on Nov 13, 2011 6:11:27 GMT -9
CA cures when it hits water.... that's why it sticks skin so well Once it dries it's got no moisture in it and it seals the paper, making it set really, really slowly if you try to stick something that's had CA on it already (any moisture in the material has already been used up and the porous surfce is sealed so it's just from the moisture in the air making it cure). Paper sticks so well because its so absorbent and takes lots of moisture in from the air, seal that surface behind a layer of glue and you are just sticking glue to glue really. You'll never get that same 'instant bond'. It'll stick, but in the same way as glass or plastic, not the way skin and paper stick.
I'm too much of a klutz to use superglue. With Elmer's Tacky Bond I have to stop every few minutes to clean my fingers, but with superglue, I'd have to stop to go to Urgent Care!
I had to read that aloud to the wife. Chuckle achieved!
I've been using either craft bond PVA or gluestick for the initial lamination. Either paper and construction paper or card stock. The PVA works alright to stick the Mechs to their bases because of the whole 2.5 d thing, but I don't think it would be quite so good with 2d figures.
My main point to use the CA would be the hip joints on the Mech Attack mechs.
That is, it would if I had any CA on hand. I've just discovered all of my stockpile has gone solid.
Post by glennwilliams on Nov 27, 2011 11:10:40 GMT -9
I just found an application where superglue would have been superior. I made little gift boxes for truffles for each person at Thanksgiving (a grandkid on each face--lots of "oohs" and "ahhs"). I used really extra glossy photopaper, so one set of tabs needed glue on the glossy side. Instead of scraping off the gloss, I coulda' used superglue (one of the moments V8 advertises). So I think I'll modify my no to maybe.
I often use superglue. I use the "school" stick glue for large parts or large tabs, otherwise i use my trusty "Attack" (cyanoacrilate....or whatever it is) 'cause i can almost "control" it: the trick is how big is the drop and how much you'll wait before joining the two parts: too much glue, or too less time and the glue will "soak" the paper and your finger. The contrary will make the glue dry too soon. And when i print using photoprinting services, it is the only option available.
Sure, even if i always use a pair of tweezers, my fingerprints are sealed in hardened glue for a day or so :-[
I use the 1 hour photo a lot to print to 4x6. The paper is much more durable, but yeah you can't really glue it the same way. I haven't tried superglue, but I've found that putting a layer of Super Tacky Craft Glue on both sides and then lighting it dry until it's gummy before pressing it together works.
Vermin King: Not the style you are looking for, but try a search for 'paper theatre' or 'paper theater', and you will find a few pages of epinal figures. Not many, but I know there are a few
May 14, 2019 5:08:58 GMT -9
shep: Does anyone know where to find decent individual minis of late Roman Republic era civilians? From senator to slave, every mini would be great, as long as they are not legionaires or generals or other military (Praetorian Guard and Roman Vigiles excluded)
May 14, 2019 4:20:32 GMT -9
wyvern: Nah, just rewatched the 1931 Universal "Dracula" movies (the Lugosi one and the Spanish version)
May 1, 2019 12:20:34 GMT -9
Vermin King: did you do your bonfire?
Apr 30, 2019 10:08:38 GMT -9