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Post by hobbeskind on May 2, 2012 6:54:19 GMT -9
So I bought a lot papermini files. Then I wrote a set of wargames rules cribbing from Fantasy Warriors and Warhammer Fantasy Battle and some of my own ideas. Made Armycards and then started printing and cutting with my Craft Robo. That is where the troubles started. When I make my own cut files everything works great. But...... Once I try your gsd files then there is no way I get them aligned with the prints. Usually the cut files are too short. I tried using US letter format and A4 size both ( I live in Europe) no difference. Anybody recognize this? Attachments:
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Post by josedominguez on May 2, 2012 13:54:31 GMT -9
I print from the robo software, so I've never had a problem. Have you tried that? Import the images into your cutter package?
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Post by hobbeskind on May 2, 2012 22:51:02 GMT -9
The problem is that you cannot import PDFs into the cutter. So I convert the PDFs to JPEGs with Photoshop. It might be that the conversion is the problem. I will print a normal copy directly from the PDF and one from a converted JPG through Photoshop, see if there is a difference.
To be continued
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 2:29:55 GMT -9
Must correct the statement about PDF's. One can import PDF's into Silhouette but, with multipage files there seems no way to choose which page. So my workaround was to open the PDF in Preview (I'm on a Mac), and delete all the pages but the one I needed and saved this new (now one-page) PDF. But it the showed that simply converting to JPGs did not alter the pictures size. So nice experiment but useless. I also checked if there is a difference between file size and print size, but there was not.
Next I will try what happens if: I make a template with registration marks on it by printing an empty file with marks in Silhouette. Scan that and open in Photoshop. Add a print file. Line that up. Import into Silhouette. Merge with cut file. Add Silhouettes own registration marks and line them up with the printed ones. Then see what happens. I cannot reason why this should work but that is all I can think of at the moment.
To be continued......
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 4:24:57 GMT -9
So..... for reasons still incomprehensible to me, this worked. That is, after having used a lot of premium paper I switched to normal printing paper and everything went great. So back to my 230 grs cardstock. Big big problems. In my somewhat befuddled mind an idea formed: Could it be that, though the new cutting knives can accommodate this thickness, CraftRobo simply can't? So on to 150 grs. Worked. In fact it works up to 200 grs (cutting it twice). Now the last and final question is: Would it have worked anyhow if I had used the right paper from the start?
Final episode coming up....
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 6:26:57 GMT -9
Finally. No straight from the PDF and GSD files did not work. The long way around does. What bothers me is that I cannot find a reason for this, but it works and one should be glad for small fortunes.
The End
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Post by josedominguez on May 3, 2012 6:48:21 GMT -9
I convert the image to PNG
Then open the GSD in silhouette, match up the image and the GSD cut lines.
Print and cut from silhouette.
I convert everything to 15mm and this works great.
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Post by oldschooldm on May 3, 2012 8:23:26 GMT -9
I convert the image to PNG Then open the GSD in silhouette, match up the image and the GSD cut lines. Print and cut from silhouette. This is also what I do - though, if when I "Merge" the PNG with the GSD and there is perfect registration alignment I print from Acrobat instead for simplicity.
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 9:54:51 GMT -9
Re JoséDomingez, Convert to 15mm what do you mean by that? Scaling down? How do you do that? Ré Oldschoolm Re printing from Acrobat. What if it is a multipage PDF file. How do you choose the right page to print?
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Post by josedominguez on May 3, 2012 10:26:15 GMT -9
I just scale down within silhouette, I'm currently using 55% as that makes them sort of 'heroic scale 15mm' But a straight 50% works for most everyone else. To convert one page from a multipage PDF I use a pdf writer, the one I use is Cutewriter (it's free!). You go into 'print' and set your printer as 'Cutewriter' then just print the single page you want (just like using a normal printer and only wanting to print one page). Cutewriter then 'prints' this to file as a single paged PDF which you can open in photoshop etc... much more easily than a multipage. I've not had any scaling issues since I started doing this. I hope that was clear enough! I've read it back and I think I made it sound more complicated than it is!
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 10:53:58 GMT -9
Thank you Jose, I do get it. Cute writer is a Windows application but I understand the idea. So silly that acrobat reader itself does not let you export, or save, or print just one selected page.
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 3, 2012 12:38:17 GMT -9
Aghhhh, you said you were on a Mac earlier and I didn't register. No idea if anything I said was relevant!
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 13:26:09 GMT -9
Yes indeed it pointed me in the right direction. But: When I tried to import a(single page) PDF into Silhouette I could not match up the Silhouette marks with the marks on the PDF.
Now as far as I understand one needs to put in the Silhouette marks because else it will not go and look for them prior to cutting. So the best thing I could think of was: Change the marks on the print file (back to Photoshop), import the file in Silhouette, merge the cutfiles and line up, then align Silhouettes registration marks with the ones on the imported JPG, print and cut. It works, with the right paper, but it still seems to me quite a roundabout way of doing things.
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 3, 2012 13:36:48 GMT -9
I import the Jpeg into silhouette without reg marks (just delete them), then put this on the same page as the GSD cut marks. I then line them up THen I use the 'add registration marks' tool which puts a new set of reg marks on the page. Print straight from the silhouette software, everything is lined up
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Post by hobbeskind on May 3, 2012 13:45:01 GMT -9
its past midnight now, will try that tomorrow. That is indeed how it should work.
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Post by hobbeskind on May 4, 2012 4:49:33 GMT -9
Well finally I got to work. Thanks for your help José.
The workflow is: A: Use the right kind of paper (175grs) B: Use the right settings. Medium Designpaper Speed 5 Thickness 30 Knive on 3
Single page PDF's I now open directly in Silhouette. All others go through Photoshop first. Merge with the cutfiles. Add Registration Marks and move these as close as possible to graphic file. Print from the Cut menu.
That works quite well, except that some graphicfiles e.g. Skeleton Army Command, are too large for A4. If I move the Registration marks so far that the graphics stay within the crosshatched corners, my A4 printer doesn't print the lower left one. Tried hand drawing it but the cutter couldn't find it.
It is probably quite possible to edit the graphics by removing one double row of characters and then do the same with the cut files.
Must try that later, for now I am just happy to get along without problems.
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 4, 2012 8:27:23 GMT -9
I tend to cut the minis into strips in photoshop then reorganise them so get more on a page (they are set up for scissors and craft knives, the Robo doesn't need the space). I then do the same with the outlines on the GSD as you can select and move those about too. I can get about 60 15mm minis on a page of A4
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Post by hobbeskind on May 5, 2012 11:36:50 GMT -9
Right so everything works... but, I am not happy with the bases and movement trays. Paper is to weak to make good trays i think.
Then, the Parker game Lionheart used movement trays. 5 characters to a stand. There are 20 stands in the box and by making the little black strip, at the papercharacters feet, twice as thick (at least with my sort of paper) they can be slotted onto them. Great, works. So for a few bucks I bought 2 more boxes (they also come with a lot of ,human, miniatures) so now I have 60 stands. That should be enough. By the way, the game itself isn't half bad if you forget about the silly Chess like board.
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 6, 2012 1:31:54 GMT -9
I use steel paper (flex-o-metal) movement trays and magnetic paper bases Works a treat
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Post by hobbeskind on May 7, 2012 1:35:37 GMT -9
I found magnetic printpaper see if that works. Thanks
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 7, 2012 3:19:40 GMT -9
That's what I use The flex-0-metal sheets are more expensive, but you just need to stick a printed texture to them then cut them out. If you are making really big units you can mount them on card/foamcore. Lots less hassle than folded trays and they really hold the minis in place. YOu can use magnetic sheet for the base and tray, but polarity tends to make this a bit of a hassle and minis move about and won't line up.
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Post by hobbeskind on May 7, 2012 3:41:23 GMT -9
Yep, polarity. I'll keep that in mind. Flex-o-metal isn't easy to come by here in the Netherlands, But I'll see what I can find. For my Toy Theatre I sometimes use flattened pieces of Coca Cola tins. Maybe I can buy some of that stuff in a craft shop or something
Thanks
Harry
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Post by hobbeskind on May 7, 2012 5:18:05 GMT -9
Did you ever use Magnetic paint?
Harry
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Post by josedominguez on May 7, 2012 11:41:52 GMT -9
It doesn't work at all well. No real hold to speak of, I was really dissapointed with it.
I get my flex-o-metal from a uk supplier in A4 sheets, works out at about £1.50 a sheet, but you don't need much.
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Post by labrat on May 8, 2012 18:14:22 GMT -9
Hey nice game cards? Planning to go commercial with your game, or just for fun?
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Post by hobbeskind on May 8, 2012 22:59:06 GMT -9
Labrat, I designed wargame rules, cribbing from this and that and everywhere. So my son and I plus a few friends had a nice game without too much bookkeeping hassle. It is based around the miniatures on this site. In stead of Army lists it uses cards to keep track of your point values and they also contain the rules for the specific miniatures. Right now I have cards for the Legion of Dread and am working on the Elven Alliance. If the minis keep coming I can add Orcs, dwarves etc. At this moment everything is still in Dutch and for private use only. If however permission is given to use the minis to illustrate the cards and the rulebook, I'm willing (in due time) to translate everything into English and post Rules and sets of cards as a (probably free) download. Attachments:
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Post by labrat on May 9, 2012 4:42:48 GMT -9
For a free/personal use product, you are certainly welcome to use Onemonk and Sanity Studios minis for your illustrations. If you post for free download, just make sure to credit your illustrations, so people know where to get their figures to play. A commercial venture would require a different arrangement. I would love to see the game when it's done though. And I do plan to continue producing figures along those lines, dwarves, orcs, etc. So hopefully you can have some more armies to use for your game.
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Post by hobbeskind on May 9, 2012 8:03:18 GMT -9
In that case I will start translating in English. Since we are in the tweaking/playtesting stage it might take some time though. More so because there is slightly more to life than Fantasy Wargames
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Post by josedominguez on May 9, 2012 13:45:12 GMT -9
Vaandeldragger is the best name for a troop type ever.
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Post by hobbeskind on May 9, 2012 22:44:34 GMT -9
It is a pity though that the name actually is Vaandeldrager, Standardbearer. In the game he is one of the heros. Individuals that like, musician and real heros, can boost a units morale and its understanding of orders. At one time an important important part of Nick Lund's Fantasy Warriors game. But your remark made me think that perhaps more colourfull names might be appropriate. Open to suggestions
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