Post by slimyscaly on Jun 4, 2012 10:09:41 GMT -9
TrueFight Tabletop Fighting Game System v1
For almost 2 years now, I’ve been experimenting with different fighting tabletop game systems, and this is my current one so far. It is fun, involves some strategy, and highly customizable. The board and figures can be anything and any scale you wish.
The Fight Pads: The Fight Pads are the rectangular paper sheets that your fighter moves on, each with 12 spaces, 6 spaces wide and two spaces long. Each space has different outcomes. Each fighter has their own personalized fight pad, each with different settings, attack info, the fighter’s name, their default HP, and other info. Each fighter’s fight pad should face each other. The fight pads are attached to the ring with mounting putty, that blue sticky stuff you put posters up with. The ring itself can be any surface, it doesn’t matter as long as you can put fight pads on it
• Moving: It goes from turn to turn. When it’s each player’s turn, they roll the die, and go that many spaces, either from side to side in one section, or switching to another section. No diagonal movement.
• Attack Section: The top half of each side. It consists of 6 attack spaces and combo spaces. The attack spaces have the word Attack on the top, and underneath, the attack number that you will use to hit the opponent and take away their HP. If you land on a combo space, you can roll again until you land on two attack spaces. Add up the HP damage (HP taken away) for both of them and take that amount of HP away from your opponent. There might also be special instructions for some attacks, and you have to follow them once you land on that attack space.
• Defense Section: This section is the bottom half of each side. It has a few block spaces. When you land on one after rolling, you can move one space in front of it and attack.. When your opponent attacks you, you’re on the attack side, and a block space is a space behind you, you can move to that space to block the attack your opponent used on you, so you won’t get any HP taken from you. There are also HP gain spaces, which have a plus and a number next to it, which you add to your HP to replenish your health. You can only stay on the defense side for two consecutive turns, then you have to stay on the attack grid for at least three turns. This does not include blocking, as whenever there’s a chance to block, you can do it. There are also “deflect” spaces, which you use like blocking, except it causes your opponent to get himself attacked when he tried to attack you. In other words, instead of you getting attacked, he loses the same amount of HP as the attack he dished out.
Creating a Fighter:
You can create your own fighting avatar to play as, or you can download one of the premade paper character figures from this website. You can make your own out of things like paper, card stock, or clay. To stand them up, you can get an 18 gauge wire, bend the bottom, make a clay base on the bottom, and either cover the whole wire with a little bit of clay, or cover the top with clay or mounting putty (aka “sticky tack,” used for posting up paperwork, bulletins, and posters), and stick the fighter on the clay or mounting putty, the wire being behind them. Each fighter will have skill points, which will be used for HP and attack power. They have six attacks, which are represented by the attack spaces, and might have different amounts of HP taken away from your opponent if you land on it (make sure you have a pen and paper or something go keep track of HP on!). A good amount of skill points you should let characters have is about 180, but it’s up to you and the group of people you want to play this with. You can balance your characters out and modify their stats, but they must have at least 50 HP if you want the fights to be fair. Here are some examples of different types of character stat sets, and you can use these to start out:
Balanced: Attack 1: 15, Attack 2: 20, Attack 3: 10, Attack 4: 15, Attack 5: 10, Attack 6: 15, HP: 100
Strength Heavy: Attack 1: 25, Attack 2: 35, Attack 3: 35, Attack 4: 30, Attack 5: 25, Attack 6: 20, HP: 55
HP Heavy: Attack 1: 8, Attack 2: 10, Attack 3: 15, Attack 4: 10, Attack 5: 5, Attack 6: 12, HP: 160
The round obviously ends when one player’s HP reaches zero, making them KOed.
I’ll have fight pad templates available soon, as well as fight pads for the characters I made.
Variations:
• Armor Battle: Players use figures with separate armor on them that can be taken off. The special space on the far left takes away 20 HP and knocks the upper body armor off the opponent if landed on first. The far right special space, if landed on before the left one, takes away 20 HP and knocks the lower body armor off the opponent. If you already landed on one special space and took the upper or lower armor off the opponent and land on one again, take the other section of armor off (whichever one you didn’t knock off the first time). When a fighter is without their armor, they are weaker, because when they attack, their opponent loses only half of the HP that attack normally taken away. Also, armor-less fighters are also vulnerable to the Instant Death, which is what happens when their opponent lands on either of the special spaces after all of their armor is off, and they’re killed instantly.
• Time mode: You can set the fight in timed rounds, where either the fighter who KO’s their opponent wins the round, or the fighter with the most HP wins. The fighter with more rounds won is the overall winner of the fight.
• Endurance mode: Jack the HPs up real high for a long fight.
Inspiration for Fighters: Just use your imagination. If you want your figure to be out of paper, you can either make your own, whether it be flat or 3D, or get a picture of a fighting game character or other type of character from the internet or scan, make the backside by either reversing the picture or reversing it, then editing the design to look like the back of the character, or heavily photoshopping the picture to make your own character or a different outfit or color for the base character. You can also make your fighter out of polymer clay or plastilina. The sky’s the limit!
My Original TrueFight Series’:
Slapstick: A bunch of cute, funny animalhumans and humans. Include Slimyscaly, Lizzie, Pwnr the Chipmunk, and Prissy Fox, who you might be familiar with if you saw my artwork before.
Joystick Fighter: Traditional, fighting-game-style martial arts characters, who started out as a game where you twist the figures on a rod and have them hit each other until you knock them off. Some notable characters from this series are Happy Dragon and Lai Ming.
Special Guests: These characters are ones from video games, comic books, video game fan characters, furries, cartoon characters, etc., who I haven’t made. Some notable ones you might recognize are Falco from Starfox, Bowser from the Mario games, and Donkey Kong. These are mostly screenshots and official artwork (sometimes edited) for the video game and cartoon characters, and figures with custom bodies and original heads for the furries and fan characters.
Pro Series: Characters from games like Street Fighter, Tekken, Dead or Alive, Virtua Fighter, and SNK games.
RenderMods: These are fan characters I made using edited versions of video game character artwork and screenshots.
I’ll release zip files for each series, which will include the character figures in PSD format so they can be opened with Corel Photopaint, Adobe Photoshop, or the freeware Gimp, and customizable with accessories that you can show, hide, change the colors for, etc. Some of them might be a little mature content when all their accessories and clothes off, but I wasn’t trying to be a perv, I just wanted to make a base to work on. It will also include the character’s fight pads, and each series zip file will include the rules in docx format and a fight pad template. They might be released within the next two months, but when late August hits, I’ll take a break from updating them, because I’m starting college, but during summer and the winter, spring, etc breaks I’ll work on them a little.
Please tell me what you think. Thanks!
For almost 2 years now, I’ve been experimenting with different fighting tabletop game systems, and this is my current one so far. It is fun, involves some strategy, and highly customizable. The board and figures can be anything and any scale you wish.
The Fight Pads: The Fight Pads are the rectangular paper sheets that your fighter moves on, each with 12 spaces, 6 spaces wide and two spaces long. Each space has different outcomes. Each fighter has their own personalized fight pad, each with different settings, attack info, the fighter’s name, their default HP, and other info. Each fighter’s fight pad should face each other. The fight pads are attached to the ring with mounting putty, that blue sticky stuff you put posters up with. The ring itself can be any surface, it doesn’t matter as long as you can put fight pads on it
• Moving: It goes from turn to turn. When it’s each player’s turn, they roll the die, and go that many spaces, either from side to side in one section, or switching to another section. No diagonal movement.
• Attack Section: The top half of each side. It consists of 6 attack spaces and combo spaces. The attack spaces have the word Attack on the top, and underneath, the attack number that you will use to hit the opponent and take away their HP. If you land on a combo space, you can roll again until you land on two attack spaces. Add up the HP damage (HP taken away) for both of them and take that amount of HP away from your opponent. There might also be special instructions for some attacks, and you have to follow them once you land on that attack space.
• Defense Section: This section is the bottom half of each side. It has a few block spaces. When you land on one after rolling, you can move one space in front of it and attack.. When your opponent attacks you, you’re on the attack side, and a block space is a space behind you, you can move to that space to block the attack your opponent used on you, so you won’t get any HP taken from you. There are also HP gain spaces, which have a plus and a number next to it, which you add to your HP to replenish your health. You can only stay on the defense side for two consecutive turns, then you have to stay on the attack grid for at least three turns. This does not include blocking, as whenever there’s a chance to block, you can do it. There are also “deflect” spaces, which you use like blocking, except it causes your opponent to get himself attacked when he tried to attack you. In other words, instead of you getting attacked, he loses the same amount of HP as the attack he dished out.
Creating a Fighter:
You can create your own fighting avatar to play as, or you can download one of the premade paper character figures from this website. You can make your own out of things like paper, card stock, or clay. To stand them up, you can get an 18 gauge wire, bend the bottom, make a clay base on the bottom, and either cover the whole wire with a little bit of clay, or cover the top with clay or mounting putty (aka “sticky tack,” used for posting up paperwork, bulletins, and posters), and stick the fighter on the clay or mounting putty, the wire being behind them. Each fighter will have skill points, which will be used for HP and attack power. They have six attacks, which are represented by the attack spaces, and might have different amounts of HP taken away from your opponent if you land on it (make sure you have a pen and paper or something go keep track of HP on!). A good amount of skill points you should let characters have is about 180, but it’s up to you and the group of people you want to play this with. You can balance your characters out and modify their stats, but they must have at least 50 HP if you want the fights to be fair. Here are some examples of different types of character stat sets, and you can use these to start out:
Balanced: Attack 1: 15, Attack 2: 20, Attack 3: 10, Attack 4: 15, Attack 5: 10, Attack 6: 15, HP: 100
Strength Heavy: Attack 1: 25, Attack 2: 35, Attack 3: 35, Attack 4: 30, Attack 5: 25, Attack 6: 20, HP: 55
HP Heavy: Attack 1: 8, Attack 2: 10, Attack 3: 15, Attack 4: 10, Attack 5: 5, Attack 6: 12, HP: 160
The round obviously ends when one player’s HP reaches zero, making them KOed.
I’ll have fight pad templates available soon, as well as fight pads for the characters I made.
Variations:
• Armor Battle: Players use figures with separate armor on them that can be taken off. The special space on the far left takes away 20 HP and knocks the upper body armor off the opponent if landed on first. The far right special space, if landed on before the left one, takes away 20 HP and knocks the lower body armor off the opponent. If you already landed on one special space and took the upper or lower armor off the opponent and land on one again, take the other section of armor off (whichever one you didn’t knock off the first time). When a fighter is without their armor, they are weaker, because when they attack, their opponent loses only half of the HP that attack normally taken away. Also, armor-less fighters are also vulnerable to the Instant Death, which is what happens when their opponent lands on either of the special spaces after all of their armor is off, and they’re killed instantly.
• Time mode: You can set the fight in timed rounds, where either the fighter who KO’s their opponent wins the round, or the fighter with the most HP wins. The fighter with more rounds won is the overall winner of the fight.
• Endurance mode: Jack the HPs up real high for a long fight.
Inspiration for Fighters: Just use your imagination. If you want your figure to be out of paper, you can either make your own, whether it be flat or 3D, or get a picture of a fighting game character or other type of character from the internet or scan, make the backside by either reversing the picture or reversing it, then editing the design to look like the back of the character, or heavily photoshopping the picture to make your own character or a different outfit or color for the base character. You can also make your fighter out of polymer clay or plastilina. The sky’s the limit!
My Original TrueFight Series’:
Slapstick: A bunch of cute, funny animalhumans and humans. Include Slimyscaly, Lizzie, Pwnr the Chipmunk, and Prissy Fox, who you might be familiar with if you saw my artwork before.
Joystick Fighter: Traditional, fighting-game-style martial arts characters, who started out as a game where you twist the figures on a rod and have them hit each other until you knock them off. Some notable characters from this series are Happy Dragon and Lai Ming.
Special Guests: These characters are ones from video games, comic books, video game fan characters, furries, cartoon characters, etc., who I haven’t made. Some notable ones you might recognize are Falco from Starfox, Bowser from the Mario games, and Donkey Kong. These are mostly screenshots and official artwork (sometimes edited) for the video game and cartoon characters, and figures with custom bodies and original heads for the furries and fan characters.
Pro Series: Characters from games like Street Fighter, Tekken, Dead or Alive, Virtua Fighter, and SNK games.
RenderMods: These are fan characters I made using edited versions of video game character artwork and screenshots.
I’ll release zip files for each series, which will include the character figures in PSD format so they can be opened with Corel Photopaint, Adobe Photoshop, or the freeware Gimp, and customizable with accessories that you can show, hide, change the colors for, etc. Some of them might be a little mature content when all their accessories and clothes off, but I wasn’t trying to be a perv, I just wanted to make a base to work on. It will also include the character’s fight pads, and each series zip file will include the rules in docx format and a fight pad template. They might be released within the next two months, but when late August hits, I’ll take a break from updating them, because I’m starting college, but during summer and the winter, spring, etc breaks I’ll work on them a little.
Please tell me what you think. Thanks!