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Post by mesper on Aug 30, 2013 7:21:15 GMT -9
This is what I'm currently playing with. Thing is that I'm not sure what should be proper name for such a handsome ? - Lich Warlord - first choice and looks fine for me, however perhaps too similar to WoW's Lich King ?
- Lich Scyther ?
- some kind of Reaper ?
- something with "drain" - soul or life or bodydrainer ?
- or perhaps just... Lich (not convinced as there might be also another Liches)
I'd like to complete this set somewhere during sunday/monday, so any ideas / suggestions?
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Post by hackbarth on Aug 30, 2013 8:42:21 GMT -9
Lich Warlord is fine. I can't see how it could be confused with the WoW Lich King. Seriously, it looks to regal and impressive to be a simple Lich Reaper, Scyther, Drainer, or whatever have you.
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Post by pavaro on Aug 30, 2013 10:14:01 GMT -9
Vote for Lich Warlord although Reaper also good.
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Post by WackyAnne on Aug 30, 2013 13:16:45 GMT -9
I like Lich Warlord best, but Lich Reaper also appropriate. I wouldn't see any problem with using Lich King if it were appropriate to the figure, because WoW is far from the first (just the most overblown) to use that title. This lich looks rather more elite warrior than king, so warlord is my vote.
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Post by mesper on Aug 30, 2013 16:00:41 GMT -9
Hmm.. Just an idea... What would you say... series of posts named Designers Journal (or Notebook ?) // but definitely NOT diary - not on day-by-day / hour-by-hour / step-by-step basis // Just... some designer/developer/graphician/colorist etc. problems and decisions, with some solutions, tricks used etc.? Just to be clear - I'm not talking about easy to follow simple "how to do" but kinda "behind the scene"... still based on and propelly described and illustrated with currently developed minis&sets samples!
I'm pretty sure that for most of you thay "overlay" layer with simple tips might would be rather useless - as probably most PS/3D software tips/tricks and tools are already well if not perfectly known! So the whole thing isn't about simple tricks/tools but about kinda "strategic and tactical" decisions which are vital and/or necessary during mini's development process.
Actually I'd like to illustrate crucial steps and issues (or at least most of these ) -- one picture is worth thousand words, right? But well... from time to time you will have to struggle with... my poor English;)
So what's your impression/response - is it worth to start such a thread?
----- EDIT: "from time to time" - err... rather mostly...
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Post by squirmydad on Aug 30, 2013 20:22:47 GMT -9
I always love to see others design process so yes, I'd be happy to see it.
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Post by pavaro on Aug 31, 2013 3:54:45 GMT -9
Mesper tell me what size sketches your characters? I ask everyone how to create their work. It's very helpful. Thread on "how to do" a thread at a premium.
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Post by WackyAnne on Aug 31, 2013 5:04:08 GMT -9
So what's your impression/response - is it worth to start such a thread? Yes, I believe it would. Now, I don't have much talent for drawing, finding it rather intimidating, but it would be nice to turn my doodles into something more than that. The "common knowledge" tips & tricks aren't always so commonly known Each person's process may be different from idea through execution, so I think more than just newbies would benefit.
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Post by mesper on Sept 2, 2013 13:20:33 GMT -9
Mesper tell me what size sketches your characters? My golden rule is... one figurine (one side) per one sheet (standard A4 in my case) no matter hand drawing, using tablet or working directly on computer with mouse and keyboard. No matter raster or vector based graphics. This is mostly because I'm used to 60mm+ scale (for printed KA issues) then because some jobs are used for other, most "demanding" projects and purposes than paper minis - anyway keeping it big is more versatile therefore convenient for me. Then being consistent, after many years my "brain-muscles" automatically recognizes whenever something, like proportions, accessories/equipmen size etc. is screwed (oh well, at least mostly Well it's always better or at least much safer to scale-down then enlarge (which is not a problem for relatively small % changes and obiously not applying to vector CGs) However this habit causes also some obstacles - you just have to know (and it would be good if you knew it before starting the project - preferably even before sketching stage) how detailed and refined should be particular job so when resizing to smaller size (much smaller in case of paper minis 30mm scale) all small parts and details remains still at least noticeable, then so colours not blurred etc. I ask everyone how to create their work. It's very helpful. Well, that's really broad question!Perhaps you will find some specific tips and solutions onwards in this thread, but here are some basics ScansAll major linearts for further CG treatment are scanned in min. 600dpi BW mode (some even in higher resolution, depending on job) and saved as separate files. However for paper minis 300dpi is fairly enough. LineartsPaper minis linearts cleaning, correcting, modifying and enhancing is done in Grayscale. ColouringDuring colouring stage I'm working almost all the time in CMYK - as I feel that I've better overal colour control, which is crucial because some of my work are professionally printed (in some cases I'm using also 5-th colour - like metal/silver/gold for some parts and/or additional lacquer layer for defined parts of printed job). There is one small drawback when working in CMYK - you can't use some predefined or third party filters/function. But actually that's not a big problem, cause when some filters/functions can't be launched due to inappropriate colour space then I'm exporting needed part/layers of job and then switch to acceptable colour space (RGB etc.) so then importing finished piece back to CMYK (though sometimes this might be tricky and gamut controll could helpful:). Anyway when working in CMYK I do know by heart almost all needed/most used basic colors (like warm yellow CMYK: 0,10,90,0 sound red 10,100,100,20, dark blue 100,80,0,0). Of course most often used colour combinations (like for human skin: typical white, tanned etc.) are defined/saved as swatches for assuring at least similar if not the same final result. Final stageAfter job is finshed, let's say single sheet with figurines, then (in case of paper minis) it's converted to RGB before PDF is created. Well, now you know (almost) everything...
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Post by Parduz on Sept 2, 2013 14:30:12 GMT -9
I ask everyone how to create their work
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Post by mesper on Sept 2, 2013 16:51:46 GMT -9
Well, let's start with PERMES Lich Warlord paper figurine... // Please excuse me for my English - it's 3:40 morning here and even spellchecker refused to collaborate so I'll correct spelling later perhaps? //Figurine complexity and detailsHere are some samples regarding things I've mentioned in previous post (answer for Pavaro) The question is HOW DETAILED and/or REFINED should be figurine. Thing is that when figurine is down-scaled to 30mm scale some parts of it occur not enough noticeable or even not visible at all. You will have feeling od "cramped", unclean image. Then too much colours, shadows, textures together on a small area might result in blurred, darkish outcome. Not to mention that from so called "arm / table distance", when playing with figurines, all these small pieces will just vanish! Another issue is that probably nobody wants to waste time and spend hours hammering some refined parts which later on turns to be just... not visible, right? Luckily enough Lich Warlord (LW) figurine is rather simple one... So in this case you can see rather small differencies between version - mostly skull, chest + talisman and scythe (weapon). Potential issuesHowever - there are already some areas visible which might be troublesome - please take closer look at sword's handgrip. Even now all these thin lines merged! Now add to it some dark brown (strap) or dark-gold colour and you even don't need black outline to made this handgrip simply dissapeas (I'll be beck to this issue) More examplesJust to illustrate complexity/details balance better, here are versions of Orkish Warrior and kinda Dragon/Raptor head both with more and less details. Please note that in fact these pics will be finally significantly downscaled (to ca 30mm), so some details and parts might be even more cramped! Then some elements/lines simply just... dissapears when it comes to darker colours, textures, overlaying shadows. Rule of thumb is that more inner "white space" should be considered as wise principle =>> so allow your figurines to "breathe"! Anyway, in my opinion in case of 30mm scale less might be better choice - or at least usually safer! Beloved sinErr... right now, at the end of rather long part regarding details and convincing you to preserve some moderation with overall figurine complexity I have to confess that PERMES is quite often guilty of... too detailed arts. I can explain it because many of PERMES 30mm minis are conversion form 60+mm printed Kartonowa Armia issues. Well I'm traying to explain myself, but what can I say - truth is that detailed, elaborated figurines with all these belts, straps and sacks, armour details, coats, amulets, feathers, weapons, all other equipment and accessories simply adds so much to figurine's final character. It wasn't like this all the time but nowadays such figurines are my clear favorites. A-B sideOk, let's assume that we have finished linearts for both A and B side. Of couse these should match as much as possible (perfect situation is when sides matches 100% when max enlarging in Photoshop - which is not that tough to achieve even with raster graphics - but that's another story). It's also good to have A and B side linearts separated from background - it might be handy when it comes to some tricks with colouring, making outlines/borders etc. Separate GroundIn case of Lich Warlord I decided to replace original "ground". Now ground is placed on separated layer. This allows some positioning changes, modifying and easily changing colours, textures (rock, grass, sandy, snow or even some special like lava etc.). But most important is that it will be possible to add some more realistic depth/shadow effects and it will have to done only once, independent of type of ground! It's not visible here, but ground is also fully 2-sided (ie separate lineas within the same contour) - it looks better but it's also helpfull when it comes to create special "ground effects, which I'l try to explain/show later on if you will be interested.
Well, of course this way you can replace the whole ground almost within eye-blink. It might be also smart idea to built your own "library" of various grounds so these might be interchanged or quickly modified depending on needs. Oh, and as you probably already know I prefer "non-flat" positioning of figurines - ie. foots are not flat towards line of ground (or tab or table). (actually Rhannon pointed this as one of PERMES distinguishing hallmarks). This feature or call it solution(?), in my opinion allows more dynamical and realistic positioning. Oh well, one more profit is that you don't have to colour feets rear-view (OK, I know - sounds extremely lazy) Problematic Parts - back to details and potential issuesBefore making any modifications or beginning colouring stage it might be good idea to run some "ouline check" In fact some of these "problematic parts" should be obvious from very beginning - right at designing/sketching stage. But firstly, this figurine was drawn for bigger scale in mind, secondly it was intended for Kartonowa Armia where I'm using different outline - thin, smooth contour instead more dull black "bordering". Then... life is life and things happens - a nyway in this case it happened to be usefull for this thread Step by step:- first question is if this figurine/character needs so many horns (or whatever are these thingies on his head)?
- then (his) left horn crossed with weapon's handle
- third issue - all these holes in coat (I can bet that some of you even didn't noticed that there are any holes..
- there is also sword handgrip which stick out probably too much
All these issues are non-crucial but when aggregated might become awkward while cutting-out. One more (small) issue - bandage (roller?) on left side stick out past cloak - it's rather small part and thus would be rather non visible after adding black border. Well at this stage "outline test" might be helpfull. I've defined simple Photoshop Action which creates outline based on selected objectOutline check upWell it looks that there is no problem with "horns" - however in case when scythe will be replaced for some other weapon or benner with straight polearm therse in-the-middle horns should be kinda shorter. Not necessary but stil... Exactly the same for bandage - not crucial but could be shortened. Holes in coat - well, black border does the thing. No problem if someone would like to cut-out these (with some sharp hobby-knife), otherwise looks also fine. =>>> IMHO these holes should look simply AMAZING, adding a bit of flavor and character to the figurine!Necessary modificationWhat should be definitely changed - sword handgrip - looks terrible right now. =>>> Actually I'd like to change either size or positioning of swordThen putting the sword on separate layer might be an additional advantage - so it will be possible to change its positionig and/or remove or replace it with some other weapon (for example it might be usefull trick for MIRRORED version - how many times you were amazed how many left-handed swordsmen populated fantasy realms?) Last but not leastI think that there is no sense to leave "white gap" between his legs and ground (just partially visible as covered by PERMES logo) - It will be clearly too small so it's not worth to care +IMO Lich will looks more massive/bold with full black. Well that's all for now - hope didn't bored you to death?!? Still I'm really excited to see where this leads! Let me know what's your opinion or perhaps some questions or suggestions? Can't promise that I'll be able to fulfill all requests, nor even not sure if/when (free time is a limiting factor, as for most of us here;) but will do my best. Stay tuned!Mesper
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 2, 2013 17:08:00 GMT -9
Not boring! Please keep sharing.
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Post by pavaro on Sept 3, 2013 5:23:20 GMT -9
Mesper great description. As always want more and more detail.
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Post by WackyAnne on Sept 3, 2013 13:24:39 GMT -9
Whoops, forgot to post my response before shutting down last night. Short version: love it, learned from it*, looking forward to more! * two highlights: 1) I learned how your distinctive style results from hand-drawn sketches 2) you underlined the importance of careful consideration and refinement, how the small stuff can make the difference between a good mini and a great one
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 3, 2013 13:52:16 GMT -9
For what it is worth. I would shorten the bandage.
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Post by mesper on Sept 3, 2013 18:01:56 GMT -9
@ Parduz Another version of how-to...
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Post by mesper on Sept 3, 2013 18:03:57 GMT -9
For what it is worth. I would shorten the bandage. Hmm... I can smell some irony here..
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Post by mesper on Sept 3, 2013 18:46:22 GMT -9
Lich Warlord How-To Part 2Basic figurine modificationsSome previously mentioned parts removed. I have also idea to remove lower horns (so there will be total 3 versions - but well, probably nobody will notice this small change in set, hmm... But in fact the most important modification is removal of curved/bent part of scythe pole - now it will be straight This small change will allow for more scythe blade variations as well banner/flag could be added. Separate elements/accessoriesNew and changed parts are now separated, so can be placed on individual layers - it will be easier when modding this way. BTW these belts (sword) are also made as separate elements, so it will be easier / faster to change positioning (if needed) Although in some case I'll be "cheating" - I'll try to NOT use any elements without real necessity (vide pic.3 with mods) Figurine modsAs you can see changed figurine can be now easily modded. There is a lot of variations really! Then of course these accessories / weapons can be easily replaced with any other. BTW As mentioned above sword's belts are not used. It is perfect with fig.1 (leftmost) but I think that fig.2 (center) looks somehow artificially, so perhaps I should add some shoulder belt? I'm tempted to show you some "kitchen" - how these elements are placed and linked on layers so almost any change can be done in kinda WYSIWYG mode It would be more "technical" compared to previous entries but in fact very basic Photoshop knowledge (as well as GIMP or any other graphic package with layers) should be pretty enough. Well, let me know if you are interested... Mesper
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Post by pavaro on Sept 4, 2013 6:49:00 GMT -9
Mesper do you know that we want more? Okay ... I certainly want more and more details.
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Post by squirmydad on Sept 5, 2013 12:17:00 GMT -9
It looks as if you put a great deal of deliberation into your work. Do you freehand sketch first and then come back and edit, edit, edit, edit. Or do you plan out the drawing more more in advance?
When I was in college my costume design teacher always wanted us to do our figure drawing work on large sheets of paper, one figure per sheet. So we wouldn't feel cramped for space and so that we could concentrate better on defining details. Hard to see fine details on thumbnail sketches.
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Post by mesper on Sept 6, 2013 10:06:26 GMT -9
It looks as if you put a great deal of deliberation into your work. Do you freehand sketch first and then come back and edit, edit, edit, edit. Or do you plan out the drawing more more in advance? Depends (I hate this kind of answers so I'll try to elaborate:)). At the very beginning I wasn't sketching at all! I was working with just a mouse and keyboard (yes! working from scratch directly on PC). It was slow and quite painful, but I've learned a lot of tips (and patience;) this way. Then there was tracing stage (believe or not but I was using real models with "accessories" and even arranged "scenery" for this purpose! - I'll try to post some photos later perhaps). That was also period when I was shooting tons of photos - some trees, rocks, doors, horses and of course people... everything I thought that might be useful on some stage. I still have most of those photos on my backup disks and just can't delete as each time I'm thinking: wait, wait - that might become useful one day...
As for tracing - I'm using different techniques compared to (for example) BigJim's lightbox showed in "Torchlight" thread or transparent sheets. Thing is that I've tried inking with pen but mine results were rather disappointing (actually at some point I was even collaborating with hired artists and inkers, which resulted in better quality compared to my own inking but also has slight stylistic impact and slow down the whole process) - so I developed some software tools (well too bold word perhaps) for conversion scanned pencil sketches directly into linearts (still sometimes a lot of postprocessing is needed, depending on job). However it's all raster CG based; I'm practically not using vector CG tracing tools from Adobe or Corel - so there are some limitations when it comes to rescalling (counts mostly for enlarging which is a rare case) or more advanced modding. Then I started practicing with tablet (It was ridiculously small working space Wacom Graphire2, which comes with one of earlier version of Photoshop Elements - which was at the time rather cutted/simplified version of it's big brother then todays automatised home photo studio). Today I'm freely mixing approaches and techniques. Although some figurines/accessories simply must be done in a specific manner just to prevent certain style. That's why some older projects (vide PERMES Samurai or Wikings etc.) are still on wait list - in colouring part these series needs almost work from scratch -funny thing is that it's easier for me to remake very first figurines than these more "advanced" which btw nowadays seems quite dated compared to Lich Warlord:) So it's kinda endless process which sometimes reminds spiral as you are abandoning some recently developed techniques and revert to old ones but with different tools. Have to admit that quite often I catch myself on inspecting previous projects when starting a new one - just to avoid "reinwenting the wheel" and avoid mistakes - which in some cases might be leading towards some stagnation if not retraction.
Anyway I'm always trying to plan but very (too?) often these drafts/projects kinda starts their own life so the process of changes and modding begins. When I was in college my costume design teacher always wanted us to do our figure drawing work on large sheets of paper, one figure per sheet. So we wouldn't feel cramped for space and so that we could concentrate better on defining details. Hard to see fine details on thumbnail sketches. Right. But from the other hand the more free space the more will to fill it with, you know, "sometin' cool" - which leads to overdetailed result.At least it's how it works for me... =>>>MORE Lich Warlord INCOMING tonite so stay tuned!
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Post by mesper on Sept 7, 2013 12:35:10 GMT -9
OK, I'm skipping positioning/modding "tech" part as it seems that there is not much interest, so let's go directly to colouring stage... Basic colours schemeFirst step is choosing colour style / schemes. At this point all colours are simple / "flat" Colour layersEach "significant" part of lineart has its own colour layer. In case of more complicated/advanced figurines (especially mounted, or with very developed accessories - vide shields and banners) one side of figurine could contain even up to hundreds of layers! A-B view flat colours viewsBasic figurine layout and colors are done. Basic but very important thing is to assure that colours do not stick out the lineart! If so, after adding outline, you will receive unneeded kinda "halo" effect - BTW quite common mistake. Layer with black lineart should be (obviously) placed as a top layer and preferably set to multiply mode. Adding basic effectsAt this stage we have to decide where is our light source. According to this general arrangement all light and shadow effect will be added. In some cases adding additional layers with more dark colours compared to the basic ones might be helpful. For example in this case these darkened areas/colours might be added for "background" parts of the figurine (vide cloak) - these parts are naturally kinda "hidden" in shadow. These "darkened" areas might help when you want more dynamic or semi-3D effect. Adding special effectsNow it's time for more "sophisticated" part - adding special effects with internal shadows, light effects, textures etc. This is rather very (I mean it) time consuming part and at the same time might be technically challenging. In fact there might be several "special" layers linked to each one basic colour layer!. For example Talisman - you may want to add: - shadow=>chest effect - special "golden" texture (with kinda some "reliefs" on it?) - additional light effect - kinda shining piece of gold Talisman is a small piece and rather not complicates part of this figurine. But in some other cases you might want to add many additional effect-layers. For example some special/specific overlaying textures (like stains, blood etc.), perhaps some see-through effects or specific for figurine/character effects (vide Orkish postulated skin?). Then there are many other dedicated/specific textures - like hauberk/chain-mail or bronze plate armor etc. =>>In this case some cloak "stain" effects are added - however in final version I'll probably remove theseIn some cases you might want to add some very custom layers - additionally drawn / colored layers on top. =>>Actually in case of Lich Warlord such layers are added for some cloak parts => these in front, streaming on wind Then you might need to add some more "general" adjusting layers covering some larger parts of figurine - like for all armor metal parts etc... I'm using also special "modding" layers or "mark-up" layers - which might be used later during "postprocessing" - but it's kinda "kitchen" so I'll will spare you such a boring details
So, at the and of the day even simple figurine might ends with many hundreds of additional layers... Some more complicated/advanced figurines might count >thousand layers total for just one side!. Such figurines easily exceeds 100MB for each side! But this part adds not only the major character and flavor to the figurine but also is very, I mean really very satisfying! You can observe, step by step, how your figurine kinda "emerges" from dull, white and flat surface! Yep, you might laugh but at this stage I'm usually kinda impersonate into figurines character... Well, these are just 3cm tall paper minis, so what's the fuss? Well for me, how stupid it may sounds, each one is kinda new challenge and experience and perhaps that's the major reason why I just like it! //vide Rolling Stones: I know... it's only rock'n'roll but I like it ?// A-B finished figurine and modsBoth sides of figurine are finished. It's important to run some sort of check-out just in order to be sure that light sources / shadows are correctly placed and preserved. Sometime it will shows that some parts might be wrongly coloured / not colour/light/shadow matching etc. In worst cases some parts of figurine just looks bad when viewing B-side. In such case you might be tempted or even forced to re-do some parts (which usually includes lineart modifications for bot A and B sides!) Actually in case of Lich Warlord I'd change cape collar (so it covers hairs) and redraw some parts of B-side cloak so he's not looking kinda hunch-back (but this particular "issue" is possible to correct when colouring / adding shadows/lights). As these issues are not so crucial I'm going to live with them and will rather focus on some modding (which means adding/exchanging accessories and implementing various colour schemes), just to add more variations and characters to the figurine. In case of this specific figurine I'd like to achieve scorched earth effect. This is Lich Warlord after all so his powers must somehow influence his surroundings, right? But in final version there will be also "normal" sandy or grass grounds - especially for those users who are using "standard" bases =>>Perhaps I should release some bases which suits better to PERMES figurines. Actually I did such a dedicated base for Undead Mage (just because of contest, when I kinda banned myself so I withdraw) Anyway not sure if it's worth effort though as probably most of you are using some kind of already well proven/ own bases and/or some third-party (vide superb OneMonk LITKO) basing systems? OK, hope this thread provides at least some fun... Mesper
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Post by pavaro on Sept 7, 2013 23:07:38 GMT -9
Mesper great job! As always, professional approach. You may be prompted for something about scaling ?
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Post by mesper on Sept 10, 2013 17:40:26 GMT -9
Thanks! You may be prompted for something about scaling ? Sorry, not quite sure what are you asking about? Actually (vide previous posts) I prefer ca. 20-30cm tall figurine drafts (depending on project) - which after some tweaking are downsized to ca. 15-20cm linearts, and then coloured/texturised +light/shadow effects etc. -- and then again scaled to 60/30mm -- which is kinda whole separate topic named "how to scale figurines" and actually there is a lot of threads/posts (incl. samples) here at CW Forums regarding this issue. Hmm... sorry, can't remember right now thread/topic but there was even one of mine posts (rather booorooing) incl. some graphics regarding this particular topic:
EDIT: It was "inter-thread-series scalling" post - more "philosophy" than "how-to" // regarding - how-to: there is kinda standard 30mm from foot to eyes with some "attention" for ground/positioning/figurine specific... that's all Yep! some figurines/characters are more bold/tall etc... but IMHO overall "feeling" is determining //
What you should care about is kinda maintaining coherence between figurines within the set AND (preferably) other sets!
EDIT #2 LOL actually IMO (vide attached picture) the Pirate is WRONGLY scaled! Shame on me...
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Post by pavaro on Sept 10, 2013 21:18:30 GMT -9
Thanks! You may be prompted for something about scaling ? Sorry, not quite sure what are you asking about? Actually (vide previous posts) I prefer ca. 20-30cm tall figurine drafts (depending on project) - which after some tweaking are downsized to ca. 15-20cm linearts, and then coloured/texturised +light/shadow effects etc. -- and then again scaled to 60/30mm -- which is kinda whole separate topic named "how to scale figurines" and actually there is a lot of threads/posts (incl. samples) here at CW Forums regarding this issue. Hmm... sorry, can't remember right now thread/topic but there was even one of mine posts (rather booorooing) incl. some graphics regarding this particular topic:
EDIT: It was "inter-thread-series scalling" post - more "philosophy" than "how-to" // regarding - how-to: there is kinda standard 30mm from foot to eyes with some "attention" for ground/positioning/figurine specific... that's all Yep! some figurines/characters are more bold/tall etc... but IMHO overall "feeling" is determining //
What you should care about is kinda maintaining coherence between figurines within the set AND (preferably) other sets!
EDIT #2 LOL actually IMO (vide attached picture) the Pirate is WRONGLY scaled! Shame on me...
I apologize for the poorly constructed question. That's what I meant. Do I get on the forum something about linearts? How to do?
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Post by mesper on Sept 18, 2013 16:02:54 GMT -9
Grrr... this Lich is a really tough "encounter"... I was about to release the set when I found some silly mistakes - as you can see whole left part of collar was treated and so coloured as hairs! Then there are also some other minor "bugs". Which reminds me that less is better:) So now I have to correct almost all minis
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Post by mesper on Sept 20, 2013 15:22:07 GMT -9
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Post by mesper on Sept 20, 2013 17:07:26 GMT -9
...
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Post by mesper on Sept 20, 2013 17:14:49 GMT -9
so...
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Post by pavaro on Sept 22, 2013 5:20:09 GMT -9
Mesper tell me, how are you doing shadows and light ? Are you using layers in photoshop or maybe using "smudge stiuk" ? I attach image this tool.
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