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Post by endial on Oct 28, 2013 16:47:50 GMT -9
Being new to both this site and Papercraft Modeling in General I know there is a lot that I don't know. But I do know that I can't be the only one. So lets hear what Tips, Tricks, and Advice you have! Seriously post anything from the blatantly obvious to your ultimate tricks of the trade!
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Post by endial on Oct 28, 2013 16:48:52 GMT -9
One thing I have already learned is that having Straight Cuts and Straight Score lines makes the rest of your project tremendously easier.
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Post by WackyAnne on Oct 28, 2013 21:34:07 GMT -9
One tool which I've yet to see used or mentioned here is a bone folder; it's of great use for improving the crispness of folds and corners. About the size and shape of a tongue depressor, thicker in the middle along the long axis, tapering to a dull point at one end, made out of polished bone. They are used by artists and hand-bookbinders to exert smooth, even pressure as you make the fold in the paper. They cost around $6-$8, and can be found at most art supply stores. I consider it an essential part of my toolkit!
But do check through the "Papercraft and Modeling discussion" board collection, fourth down on the main page. I tend to forget about it, too often just checking for the most recent posts, or following a particular artist, project, or member via search and/or links. But that's where all the best advice can be found, for many questions have been asked and answered over the years here!
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Post by glennwilliams on Oct 29, 2013 6:17:28 GMT -9
Before you invest in expensive Xacto style knives, may I recommend the Olfa single edge knives? Relatively inexpensive and available in your local DIY store. I found Xacto blades dull quickly, then I need a new blade. You can also buy a cheap plastic Olfa hockey puck-shaped container for the discarded blades that lets you snap them off safely.
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Post by squirmydad on Oct 29, 2013 6:33:10 GMT -9
Before you invest in expensive Xacto style knives, may I recommend the Olfa single edge knives? Relatively inexpensive and available in your local DIY store. I found Xacto blades dull quickly, then I need a new blade. You can also buy a cheap plastic Olfa hockey puck-shaped container for the discarded blades that lets you snap them off safely. Those also feel better in the hand when I'm exerting pressure on cuts, the exactos actually feel like their too light duty to me.
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Post by endial on Oct 29, 2013 12:02:17 GMT -9
Before you invest in expensive Xacto style knives, may I recommend the Olfa single edge knives? Relatively inexpensive and available in your local DIY store. I found Xacto blades dull quickly, then I need a new blade. You can also buy a cheap plastic Olfa hockey puck-shaped container for the discarded blades that lets you snap them off safely. I actually picked up one when I went to buy more xacto blades the other day, I figured it would be better to use for rough cuts and then I can go back and do clean up with the Xacto.
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Post by spaceranger42 on Oct 29, 2013 14:36:21 GMT -9
I am awefully fond of stencil cutting blades. I have cut several hundred figures and all manner of terrain with one and they do not break as the standard shaped blades.
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Post by wyvern on Oct 30, 2013 3:02:43 GMT -9
One tool which I've yet to see used or mentioned here is a bone folder; it's of great use for improving the crispness of folds and corners. About the size and shape of a tongue depressor, thicker in the middle along the long axis, tapering to a dull point at one end, made out of polished bone. They are used by artists and hand-bookbinders to exert smooth, even pressure as you make the fold in the paper. They cost around $6-$8, and can be found at most art supply stores. I consider it an essential part of my toolkit! You may find metal or plastic alternatives as well, if you check for "burnishing tools". Back in the days before PCs and fancy fonts, these used to be readily available (often free) for use with rub-down dry-transfer lettering and symbols, and I have a a couple from then I continue to use from time to time. They're still available for things like gold-leaf work, and with a range of head sizes and forms, so can also be used for embossing on paper modelling, though they're more expensive generally (as precision tools). That old bone-like alternative, the thumbnail, can be another really cheap alternative if you just have a small area to crease. I use that to flatten down any small raised edges after cutting around figure outlines too. With cutting knives, I've found the cheap snappable blade ones are great for large scale straight line cuts, but for fine work and smoother curves, particularly around the edges of paper figures, I find I need the precision of a scalpel with a 10A blade. [Not sure if this blade style-numbering is internationally-transferable. It's correct for British Swann-Morton scalpels certainly, and the nearest equivalent in the small X-Acto set I have is #11, so I'm guessing it may be. Otherwise - narrow, sharp pointed, single-edge blade, around 0.8 cm or 3/10 inch wide.] Never took to X-Acto with that screw handle fastening for the blade, just where you have to grip it. By contrast, the scalpel blade's cut out attachment to its handle can't slip, because in use, your hand's resting nowhere near said attachment area.
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Post by cowboyleland on Oct 30, 2013 3:55:19 GMT -9
My two cents: I would advise against a Slicer(TM)"precision paper cutter." I got one in my Christmas stocking a few years ago. It can be found in the Lee Valley catalogue. My problem with it was that you can't see where the little ceramic blade touches the paper because it is embedded in a thicker piece of plastic that blocks your view. Also that piece of plastic prevents the blade from resting against a straight edge, so you need to calculate an offset even for straight cuts.
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