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Post by oldschooldm on Jun 12, 2014 8:41:11 GMT -9
So I recently had to store my good printer away for awhile and bought a "throwaway" inkjet printer to handle my temporary needs. I got the Cannon MG2400 series something or other. You know, one of those $50 "all in one" that costs less than replacement ink for it. Anyway, I wanted to print on some cardstock to scratch my paper moddlin' itch (and to support the Elven Tower and Walls kickstarter...) But, as I made the cutfiles and printed them out, I discovered that the print area was too small for the model - the bottom 1/2" or so was clipped off. I was forced to consider either scaling the model smaller, hacking it to pieces, or finding a way to increase the print area. Then it hit me! What if I made the page longer and told the printer it was longer paper? So here's what I did - I made a 22" piece of cardstock by taping a second sheet to the end of the first. --------- | | | | |sheet 1| | | | | --------- <--- Scotch tape to the back (non-printing side) here. | | | | |sheet 2| | | | | ---------
Then, when I print, I tell the printer driver that it's 8.5" by 14" paper, even though I'm only printing the original 8.5"x11" image on it unscaled. The interesting reason this doesn't break, is that the paper-eject mechanism is edge-sensor based, and so keeps feeding the paper through when the page is finished printing. Then I just separate the pages and bam! I have a full length print area on a 11" long sheet! The model linked above was printed using this method, but your mileage may vary - I do not warrantee that this will work with every cheap printer, but it's worth a try! I hope you find this useful. For me, it means I can build during my short hiatus from having my full studio up and running...
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Post by Parduz on Jun 12, 2014 10:29:44 GMT -9
Just don't do that with a laser printer, or the heating unit will melt the adhesive tape ruining the drum
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