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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 27, 2014 10:56:23 GMT -9
I was wondering if there is any patent on Fat Dragon-esque type walls that attach with bobby pins? I don't think so as I see Lord Zsezse Works has some here: www.rpgnow.com/product/103089/EI-Wall-Set-1?cPath=5442_5653
I wanted to create some terrain sets with fat walls and fat tiles, but I want to be sure I am legally able to.
Obviously I would be creating them from scratch (my own templates), but can they be the same dimensions? Id like to make things compatable with FD stuff.
It seems to be a standard of 2 inch height walls from most paper terrain creators, but I wanted make my walls the same 1/2 inch thickness as well.
Id appreciate any replies as Im seriously contemplating some modular modern building sets.
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 27, 2014 11:01:41 GMT -9
I posted at the FD forums I guess that would be the best way for a definite answer
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Post by Vermin King on Jun 27, 2014 12:10:33 GMT -9
I seriously doubt that 'thick walls' and 'bobby pin' connectors could be considered 'intellectual property'
I'm anxious to see the FD response.
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Post by Zephalo on Jun 27, 2014 13:52:54 GMT -9
I seriously doubt that 'thick walls' and 'bobby pin' connectors could be considered 'intellectual property' I'm anxious to see the FD response. And there it is: fatdragongames.proboards.com/thread/3067/develop-walls-terrain-attaches-bobbypinDesign away! I have no problems with this at all (but thank you for being kind and asking, I appreciate it.) EDIT: A while back I had made this offer over at the Cardboard Wareriors forum; if anyone is interested in using the exact E-Z Lock system/templates/sizes, etc. I'll gladly make a free compatibility logo and put it up for anyone to download- no strings attached, but it would make sure your customers know it is fully compatible with FDG sets then and clear up any confusion. Just LMK if you'd like this and I'll get a logo knocked out. Greetings, Zephalo
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Post by cowboyleland on Jun 27, 2014 14:29:38 GMT -9
A page out of the Tesla Motors playbook
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Post by WackyAnne on Jun 27, 2014 18:40:47 GMT -9
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Post by glennwilliams on Jun 28, 2014 7:27:24 GMT -9
Is this what you're talking about--a gap at each end.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jun 28, 2014 7:36:27 GMT -9
Is this what you're talking about--a gap at each end. Both ends? With a model like this, wouldn't you only need one end with a gap?
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Post by glennwilliams on Jun 28, 2014 8:40:53 GMT -9
I figured you'd need to be able to slide the bobby pin down to clip both wall sections together. That way, you get a lot moire flexibility. (Really what I'm doing is asking if that's what he had in mind, although the idea might make a good product.)
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 28, 2014 10:57:56 GMT -9
Thanks Anne
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 28, 2014 11:01:11 GMT -9
Is this what you're talking about--a gap at each end. I like to add just little square holes at each end. To have a column whether square or octagonal at end as well.
BTW I have devised a 1/2" (height) tile system that can not only attach to one another via bobby pins but also attach columns via bobby pins to the surface.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jun 28, 2014 18:49:09 GMT -9
Is this what you're talking about--a gap at each end. I like to add just little square holes at each end. To have a column whether square or octagonal at end as well.
BTW I have devised a 1/2" (height) tile system that can not only attach to one another via bobby pins but also attach columns via bobby pins to the surface.
I'm confused. Need pictures.
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 30, 2014 8:49:33 GMT -9
I like to add just little square holes at each end. To have a column whether square or octagonal at end as well.
BTW I have devised a 1/2" (height) tile system that can not only attach to one another via bobby pins but also attach columns via bobby pins to the surface.
I'm confused. Need pictures.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jun 30, 2014 12:37:03 GMT -9
This is what is confusing me: How does this: and this: combine?
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 30, 2014 12:45:28 GMT -9
This is what is confusing me: How does this: and this: combine? LOL, now Im confused.
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Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Jun 30, 2014 13:13:31 GMT -9
LOL. I think you guys are talking different things. Let me see if I can recap. First, wisdomknight wanted to know if he could make his own sets using the bobby-pin style of attaching things that Fat Dragon Games and Lord Zsezse Works uses. glennwilliams followed up with a proposed style where, rather than having little holes for the pins, you just leave the ends open. It'd accomplish a similar goal of letting you attach the walls together with pins, but I don't think wisdomknight was looking for a FDG-style alternative, I think he was looking to just use the FDG style. Tom is willing to provide templates for people to make their own stuff, and all he's asking is that you include a logo that indicates it is compatible with his stuff. Pretty generous if you're not interested in making a ton of templates yourself, and I think it's great to have some set compatibility. Then, wisdomknight brought up being able to attach 1/2" flooring to the walls and to each other via pins. I think he's talking about making the floor tiles out of boxes rather than gluing it onto foamcore (or, perhaps, not exclusively to foamcore). At least, I think that's what he's talking about. As for how I find the FDG dungeon set? I really like the textures. It's a very nice, generic dungeon texture. I've built a half-ton (I won't go so far as to call what I've built a *ton* yet) of pieces and six or so 6" tiles, and I think I can draw some conclusions. First, I'll freely admit I've gone into this with a TON (not even a half-ton, a real TON) of bias because I've built a LOT of TLX stuff. Both systems have pros and cons, and I now believe that anyone who says one is more time consuming to build than another is not being realistic. Both are time consuming in their own way. I get that some like the chunky walls over the flat walls. I kind of do, too. But, I am still having a mental hurdle to building multi-level builds with FDG as I can with TLX. I just don't like how FDG has solved the problem as much as I like how WWG solved it, but either one works for builds, so that's that. It would seem that FDG's style will survive and WWG's style may not, so I'm trying to keep an open mind and build the FDG stuff the way it was intended. One of my early prototypes for bridging the styles was a tile where WWG posts could slot into the corners of the tiles rather than have the anchors above the tile. I'm thinking I'll revisit this again when I more seriously build out my dragonshire set. I did a bunch of the dragonshire set as TLX pieces, and I really like how it came out. When I get around to it, I'll try moving the FDG tile holes to the corners/edges (and make them 1/2" rather than 1" thick) and so I'll (a) do away with the 1" columns, and I'll (b) not have to carve the insides of the tiles. I'm making my tiles like WWG tiles in that the textures wrap around the tile, and they connect together via foamcore tabs. That strategy works fine with the FDG tiles with holes in them, and I'm hoping it'll work fine with 1/2" holes in the corners/sides. I've been slacking off on my personal blog... I've got to get around to taking some pictures and posting more thoughts.
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 30, 2014 13:30:30 GMT -9
mproteau your 100% ------------------------------ As for the FD sets and WWG. What I am doing now is combing the best IMO of each. - First a make full 3'x4' boards of repeating tiled mats on chip boards. - Floor variation, I make into 6x6 Terraclip compatible tiles (on 14 ply mounting/matte board) and attach via the clips themselves. (I made my own Terraclips templates and I use those for any terrain/floors BTW) - Walls are all FG compatible and use only bobby pins but EZ lock columns/cuts.
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Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Jun 30, 2014 15:25:08 GMT -9
wisdomknight - my issue with making a masterboard to build off of is really only an issue when it comes to building UP. I'm ignoring the issues right now with the dungeon set. Because TLX put the posts and walls right on the edge of the tiles, I could stack them and it just works. With the FDG method, you've got two issues. One is that the floor texture from the bottom has to extend outside the walls, or else you need custom tiles for every interior/exterior combination. Second, I need to make wonky sized pieces to make upper floors, and the mechanism to hold things in place on the upper floors kind of has to be different than the mechanism on the bottom floor. With TLX, neither of these is true. I think now that I've made a bunch of FDG stuff, I'm in a better position to try moving the holes to the edges. In doing that, I'll fix my problem with building up. If I've got a 6" tile, I can rest a 6" tile on top of it and it'll fit great. I use the TLX tile style because it accommodates things like railings, balconies, walkways etc. I'll feel better about tinkering with the FDG style roofs this way, too.
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Post by wisdomknight on Jun 30, 2014 16:16:01 GMT -9
wisdomknight - my issue with making a masterboard to build off of is really only an issue when it comes to building UP. I'm ignoring the issues right now with the dungeon set. Because TLX put the posts and walls right on the edge of the tiles, I could stack them and it just works. With the FDG method, you've got two issues. One is that the floor texture from the bottom has to extend outside the walls, or else you need custom tiles for every interior/exterior combination. Second, I need to make wonky sized pieces to make upper floors, and the mechanism to hold things in place on the upper floors kind of has to be different than the mechanism on the bottom floor. With TLX, neither of these is true. I think now that I've made a bunch of FDG stuff, I'm in a better position to try moving the holes to the edges. In doing that, I'll fix my problem with building up. If I've got a 6" tile, I can rest a 6" tile on top of it and it'll fit great. I use the TLX tile style because it accommodates things like railings, balconies, walkways etc. I'll feel better about tinkering with the FDG style roofs this way, too. Yeah Im curious to see some big builds uses FD roofs...especially in different ways than intended.
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Post by glennwilliams on Jul 1, 2014 5:03:43 GMT -9
Wouldn't the easiest way be just to take a pencil and poke a hole where you need it on the wall?
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