I am wondering if you guys have tips on how to be able to place the glue more accurately (both in location and amount).
Would wood glue diluted a bit with water and using a brush work?
You can buy bottles that have very fine tube applicators to get into narrow spaces easily from various model suppliers. For example, in the UK, Metcalfe Models, who produce many HO and N gauge model railway pre-printed card buildings, sell these. Deluxe Materials make a specialist card glue, and their bottles come with a spare fine nozzle as standard, but the company also produces needle-nosed syringes which come with three different nozzle sizes for extremely fine work. There's a handy short article, with links to both these Deluxe Materials products, on the Gaugemaster website here. These or similar items should be available from model railway stockists and good model shops elsewhere in the world.
I'd avoid watering down any glue for use on card models, as water tends to warp the card, and may also damage the printed surface.
Post by bravesirkevin on Dec 16, 2015 3:14:52 GMT -9
I usually use a form of contact adhesive as PVA glues tend to warp things pretty badly and often take too long to dry. My usual technique is to use little bits of the offcuts from the printed sheet as a sort of improvised brush to apply the glue and while it can be quite messy on my work area my models generally land up coming out nearly perfect.
I generally put a bit of glue on a scrap piece of card and use a toothpick as an applicator for smaller tabs/finer work.
Ditto, but leave off the smaller tabs/finer work part. For PVA I always apply with a toothpick. I also use CA glue with the brush applicator. I would have used it for gluing spoked wheel halves together. Less tedious to apply and will add strength after drying. Less warpage concern, too.
There are no strangers in this world,only people I haven't embarrassed ... yet!
I use Staples white school glue and my fingertip for tabs, and Super77 spray glue for large flat surfaces. With something as cheap and watery as white glue, sometimes I put a THIN line on the tab and then smear it even thinner with my finger, or else I put a drop on a scrap piece of paper, dip my fingertip in it, then smear it onto the tab. I wipe my finger clean on a scrap piece of cardstock (I save a lot of scraps!). With Super77, sometimes I cover tabs that I don't want glued with scrap cardstock, or else I let it get sprayed, and I wipe it clean with my finger. Usually, the stuff can rub off by hand - it gums up on the paper and comes off. For example, for my WWG Terrainlinx posts, I use Super77 to do the sandwich fold, then I wipe the tab clean and use white glue to adhere that.
Post by cowboyleland on Dec 16, 2015 20:59:01 GMT -9
I sometimes let PVA get thicker by letting it sit out a bit (i.e. I pour out a blob on some scrap before I start cutting) Then apply it with a fine brush, dipping into the edge of the blob where the glue dries fastest. I dip the brush in water if I am going to put it down for a while and I'm afraid it will start to harden. If I use it sooner than I thought I wipe off the water before getting more glue on it.
On the other hand, maybe it's the herd that is crazy.
for regular stuff i also use the spread-by-finger method but for thin parts like the spoked wheels this leads to the glue being spread esp between the spokes. if i am then not able to pick up the part but move it a little on the mat the glue will get on the printed on areas.
i have taken a lot of good tips from this thread so far. for now i will try to get glue bottles with a fine nozzle. sounds the best for what i need.
i knew the nozzle glue for plastic sets, but did not think they have them for paper. at least i never noticed them. until today when i found these. had to try a few stores but an artist supply shop had them.
Vermin King: Not the style you are looking for, but try a search for 'paper theatre' or 'paper theater', and you will find a few pages of epinal figures. Not many, but I know there are a few
May 14, 2019 5:08:58 GMT -9
shep: Does anyone know where to find decent individual minis of late Roman Republic era civilians? From senator to slave, every mini would be great, as long as they are not legionaires or generals or other military (Praetorian Guard and Roman Vigiles excluded)
May 14, 2019 4:20:32 GMT -9
wyvern: Nah, just rewatched the 1931 Universal "Dracula" movies (the Lugosi one and the Spanish version)
May 1, 2019 12:20:34 GMT -9
Vermin King: did you do your bonfire?
Apr 30, 2019 10:08:38 GMT -9
woosh: also, where can i find cool ships and mechs? im looking particularly for any spider tanks or spider mechs. ive seen the site with all the mechwarrior papercrafts and ive made a couple of those but none of them are especially spider-like
Apr 7, 2019 12:38:49 GMT -9
woosh: ebbles sent me here when i asked about his ud41 utility dropship, and that hed seen a mod that had 4 engines, which id like to try
Apr 7, 2019 12:37:22 GMT -9
woosh: i was typing up a thread and it said it was too big. soooo whatever
Apr 7, 2019 12:36:03 GMT -9
Vermin King: Sorry, long day yesterday ...
Apr 7, 2019 4:37:09 GMT -9
woosh: is anyone currently online?
Apr 6, 2019 19:10:30 GMT -9
woosh: hello! i am new. im currently typing up a thread in the 'say hi' forum
Apr 6, 2019 19:09:52 GMT -9
okumarts: ANYONE can do it!
Apr 2, 2019 9:46:48 GMT -9
chiefasaur: Sweet tutorial! Now I know how to make paper minis ;P
Apr 1, 2019 19:15:04 GMT -9
oldschooldm: Yup. More power to anyone who tries it. It will only whet the appetite for people who want paper minis that were designed to be paper minis. :-) Fronts and Backs FOREVER! :-) [... it's bait, don't bite it! ... ]
Mar 25, 2019 8:13:22 GMT -9
cowboyleland: Now I have seen it. It doesn't advance our hobby, but anyone with half a brain who wanted 2nd rate figures could easily figure this out for themselves so I guess he isn't doing any harm.
Mar 19, 2019 17:53:59 GMT -9