I wanted to share something that was originally designed by oldschooldm during his attempt to fold-flat the Samurai wall modules. It is a very easy solution to connecting stuff and it is fast to implement. Originally the design only had the slots on the edges of the wall modules but as I wanted to make some T-connections at some time I also thought it could be done with this solution by adding slots on the sides of the bases.
This approach is following the design of fold-flat where you have (square) flaps that are inserted into slots and will hold the pieces together via friction. See an example of two wall modules. The connecting square flap is double layered to make it a little thicker than the slot. I have removed 1mm border from the lower layer so that I have a little ledge to make inserting easier. What I also like is that you can just add this to existing bases.
The parts follow the pattern below. In the PDF (link@bottom) I created you can taylormake sizes required for 1" and 2" wide bases. Cut just the triangles out that you will need for connections space. Can be one or two or all. Then cut and fold the part or cut in three stripes (esp. when using thicker cardboard) and glue together. It has worked great with my test builds. The only thing I notice you need to make sure to glue the middle layer thorough. I there is glue missing around the insertion area the tabs might not stick as there is not enough friction.
If you want to create bases for other sizes use this reference. The main grid is 1" and the red subgrid is 1/5"
oldschooldm generously made it available free to use and I hope it will be useful for a lot of projects.
I'm not sure I understand the construction - especially how to use the two pages.
Could you please explain how it all looks under that bottom plate?
My two pages are just implementations of the general idea. The first page produces 1"wide strips and the second page 2"wide strips. So for the first page you can have several 1x1" bases if you cut them or one 1x8" base. Same for the 2" page. You can extend this to any size base you need.
The general idea is to have bases that will "magically" be held together with connector parts. The magic being friction! Obviously it is not as stable as glued together, but works fine for holding stuff together on a gaming table.
The bases are made of three layered parts where the middle layer has some cutout spaces (where later the connector parts will be inserted) and the top and bottom layer, covering the cutout spaces, produce the friction to hold whatever you insert in place. The small squares on the bottom of the pages are the connector parts.
My PDF has the bases setup as parts that you would Z-fold to produce the three layers. You could also cut the three layers separately and glue them together.
One refinement I made when building this, is to make the bottom layer a little smaller, resulting in a little ledge (as seen on the photo). This will help inserting the connector squares.
Let me know if this helps. Maybe I should do a video ...
cowboyleland: Now I have seen it. It doesn't advance our hobby, but anyone with half a brain who wanted 2nd rate figures could easily figure this out for themselves so I guess he isn't doing any harm.
Mar 19, 2019 17:53:59 GMT -9
berneart76: well, this is fun, (not) transferring all my papercrafting sets into the cloud. The stuff I got from DriveTrhruRPG was simple with their library desktop app,but my other stuff, sometimes with multiple duplicate copies is entertaining.
Mar 1, 2019 15:44:32 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King I usually use a mix of drybrush/watercolor/photocopy and occasionally posterizing at different levels of opacity.
Feb 26, 2019 20:46:54 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King, that's similar to the enhancing that I do on my texturing. I've found that sometimes I need to scale up or scale down the image (usually by 50 or 25 percent down or 200 or 300 percent up) to make get the enhancements to look "right"
Feb 26, 2019 20:44:53 GMT -9
Vermin King: On the zebras, I did multiple enhancements and cartoon filters and used them at 100%, and they still didn't look that different than the photos
Feb 26, 2019 12:27:26 GMT -9
Vermin King: When I make a figure or terrain piece based on a photo, I clean it up and align things to look 'right', then I create another layer and do enhancing and cartoonizing on it. I then adjust opacity over the photo image until it looks good. On the zebras,
Feb 26, 2019 12:26:35 GMT -9
Vermin King: berneart76, do you mean giving them green or purple manes and tails? and a few piercings? maybe a cig hanging out of their mouths?
Feb 26, 2019 12:24:18 GMT -9
Vermin King: cartoonizing a zebra doesn't do much
Feb 20, 2019 5:59:28 GMT -9
Vermin King: And due to the snow, I'm off tonight. I am going to miss the cash on the paycheck, but I'm glad they want their employees to be safe
Feb 15, 2019 10:52:24 GMT -9
ignatious: Actually I was referring to the two previous posts. I was trying to be subtle in order to sublimate the crassness. Read them again, but in Mel Brooks voice while he is winking, and nudging the person to his right.
Feb 9, 2019 13:38:11 GMT -9
Vermin King: Sure. Euphemize us
Feb 8, 2019 18:40:48 GMT -9
ignatious: would anyone care for a euphemism?
Feb 8, 2019 13:40:27 GMT -9
cowboyleland: We hadn't had snow for a few days. Last night the plow came down my street and did nothing but fill every ones driveways back in. Just for practice, I guess.
Feb 8, 2019 7:48:16 GMT -9
Vermin King: In KC we had an ice storm (with thunder sleet) the other night. Left things drivable, but last night the plow came down my street. They took all the rough edges off. Might as well have ran a Zamboni...
Feb 8, 2019 6:42:32 GMT -9
okumarts: Vermin King... Mind Blown!
Feb 5, 2019 19:32:30 GMT -9