The basic idea is to glue a small tab to the bottom of a standard mini so that it can be threaded all the way though a basic box and glued to the bottom. Since the sides of the box are not permanently glued the box can fold flat and the minis will follow the same direction. It does take a bit of patience to thread the minis through but it's easy to burnish since the whole thing folds flat. I also add a piece of magnetic strip to cover the entire bottom for weight and to add rigidness.
Multiple stands can be put together to make the larger units. If you have suggestions, I'd like to hear about it.
Post by nikloveland on Feb 15, 2017 13:56:45 GMT -9
Thank you. I’ve made a couple of units with this flat folding basing style and I have learned a few things. First, when gluing the hing tab to the figure, make sure it’s below the figure’s elements that are cut wider than the tab (such as feet or capes). Some figure’s black tabs go above the feet and if the hing tab is glued to the top edge of the figure’s tab it’s harder to open the box. Also, edge the hing tabs before cutting them apart. I was able to thread and glue a row of five figures at a time. It took some time to get the paper minis to wiggle though the box but the outline on the bottom of the box made it easy to place them all at the right depth.
Now I do lose the ability to have individual figures but I gain other benefits: The figure art is flat to the base, the figures alternate within the rows for depth, the stands are easy to place out, but most of all I’m amazed at how well it conserves space. The last photo shows the same number of models folded flat vs traditionally based models on movement trays. I could probably fit x4 the number that are in that container (25-30 stands of minis). I think it will become my standard for basing in all my Kings of War units. I may even go back and convert a few from the old basing.
I built mine out of poster board. Laser cut and engraved the poster and wood. The wooden frame holds the paper and helps to force the folding action. The mountain folds on the parts that squeeze the mini are taped with packing tape to make the surface smooth so the figures slide easier. Used creative commons photos from Pexels for the floor texture. Laminated those pages so they can be drawn on with dry or wet erase markers.
Next goal is to build some slide in 3d pop up terrain. My end game is a pop-up encounter that has multiple levels.
woosh: also, where can i find cool ships and mechs? im looking particularly for any spider tanks or spider mechs. ive seen the site with all the mechwarrior papercrafts and ive made a couple of those but none of them are especially spider-like
Apr 7, 2019 12:38:49 GMT -9
woosh: ebbles sent me here when i asked about his ud41 utility dropship, and that hed seen a mod that had 4 engines, which id like to try
Apr 7, 2019 12:37:22 GMT -9
woosh: i was typing up a thread and it said it was too big. soooo whatever
Apr 7, 2019 12:36:03 GMT -9
Vermin King: Sorry, long day yesterday ...
Apr 7, 2019 4:37:09 GMT -9
woosh: is anyone currently online?
Apr 6, 2019 19:10:30 GMT -9
woosh: hello! i am new. im currently typing up a thread in the 'say hi' forum
Apr 6, 2019 19:09:52 GMT -9
okumarts: ANYONE can do it!
Apr 2, 2019 9:46:48 GMT -9
chiefasaur: Sweet tutorial! Now I know how to make paper minis ;P
Apr 1, 2019 19:15:04 GMT -9
oldschooldm: Yup. More power to anyone who tries it. It will only whet the appetite for people who want paper minis that were designed to be paper minis. :-) Fronts and Backs FOREVER! :-) [... it's bait, don't bite it! ... ]
Mar 25, 2019 8:13:22 GMT -9
cowboyleland: Now I have seen it. It doesn't advance our hobby, but anyone with half a brain who wanted 2nd rate figures could easily figure this out for themselves so I guess he isn't doing any harm.
Mar 19, 2019 17:53:59 GMT -9
berneart76: well, this is fun, (not) transferring all my papercrafting sets into the cloud. The stuff I got from DriveTrhruRPG was simple with their library desktop app,but my other stuff, sometimes with multiple duplicate copies is entertaining.
Mar 1, 2019 15:44:32 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King I usually use a mix of drybrush/watercolor/photocopy and occasionally posterizing at different levels of opacity.
Feb 26, 2019 20:46:54 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King, that's similar to the enhancing that I do on my texturing. I've found that sometimes I need to scale up or scale down the image (usually by 50 or 25 percent down or 200 or 300 percent up) to make get the enhancements to look "right"
Feb 26, 2019 20:44:53 GMT -9
Vermin King: On the zebras, I did multiple enhancements and cartoon filters and used them at 100%, and they still didn't look that different than the photos
Feb 26, 2019 12:27:26 GMT -9
Vermin King: When I make a figure or terrain piece based on a photo, I clean it up and align things to look 'right', then I create another layer and do enhancing and cartoonizing on it. I then adjust opacity over the photo image until it looks good. On the zebras,
Feb 26, 2019 12:26:35 GMT -9
Vermin King: berneart76, do you mean giving them green or purple manes and tails? and a few piercings? maybe a cig hanging out of their mouths?
Feb 26, 2019 12:24:18 GMT -9