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Post by creyates on Nov 22, 2017 18:08:36 GMT -9
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Post by pavaro on Nov 22, 2017 21:11:33 GMT -9
The figurines are superb but something is wrong with them. They are not very clear.
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Nov 22, 2017 22:14:41 GMT -9
I like the 2.5d look.
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Post by Dominic on Nov 23, 2017 0:10:35 GMT -9
The shields really set them apart, and they work well in rank and file mode. But I agree with pavaro, they seem a little odd. I think it is because they have too much going on, i.e. too many details that end up somewhat blurred. Personally, I think they need a little more contrast and less detail, but since it is your style I think they can be used the way they are, too! It is likely a matter of what I am expecting from other minis, not how they should actually be.
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Post by creyates on Nov 23, 2017 5:52:44 GMT -9
Thanks pavaro ! I know that my printer doesn't produce very high quality prints, but I suspect the problem also has to do with the artwork itself. Just as Dominic pointed out, the detail does look blurred. So far I've been focusing on the format/structure of the minis. The artwork is somewhat of a placeholder. I painted those gobbos at actual size in PS at 300dpi. They're rough around the edges, and to my eyes, a little TOO saturated. The idea is to produce some larger (around 6" tall) illustrations and shrink them down to size. I appreciate the input, and will keep it in mind! Producing 2D/2.5D artwork for small scale table top figures is a new challenge for me. Theres a lot of great work on here, and elsewhere online, but I have yet to find a cohesive set for fantasy wargaming with a dark fantasy/realistic, more painterly aesthetic. Thanks Papercraft Warrior , me too! I'm working on some more designs at the moment to (hopefully) highlight that 2.5D feel. I'd like to strike a balance between practicality in terms of assembly, set up, and storage, and getting that diorama feeling when everything is set up on the battlefield. I will keep working and posting. Thank you for your input.
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Post by berneart76 on Nov 23, 2017 6:01:34 GMT -9
Looks like a good start, it took me a while as well to develop a style that had just the right amount of detail without getting muddied.
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Post by cowboyleland on Nov 23, 2017 8:13:56 GMT -9
For what it is worth, the way I deal with the detail issue is to draw actual size (i.e. 30 mm to the eyeline) and 300dpi but then I zoom in to 200% when I draw and pull back to 50% regularly to make sure what I am drawing will read "on the table." But I almost always do mods of digital images while your facebook/blog looks like you work with pencil and paper.
I love the paintings on your website! Your style is both clean and painterly and there are great "Easter eggs" in the background detail. I also love that the creatures could actually wield the weapons you give them and that the armour is functional. Then you have great fantastic flourishes like the leafy pants on the elf and the antlers on the ogre(?) and the orc with a khopesh.
The anatomy of the dragon makes more sense than any other dragon I've seen, and I am 50 years old and been looking at fantasy art since my older brother got into Frazetta and Boris Vallejo in the 70's!
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Post by chiefasaur on Nov 23, 2017 11:12:03 GMT -9
I've found that when working at this scale, value is VERY important. Really lean on the contrast to bring focus to the important parts of the figure.
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Post by creyates on Nov 24, 2017 9:27:16 GMT -9
Thanks very much cowboyleland! I'm glad you like my work. It really means a lot! Frazetta has to be one of my all time favorites, and art heroes. Yes chiefasaur, value is always king! Especially at small scale. Thumbnails, thumbnails, thumbnails... Here are some more test prints I made today. Playing off of the 2.5D feel created by the shields. I think I`m liking this config. Seems easy enough to cut and fold (didn`t need to crease the arms). You can see the earlier poses in the back rank. Still tweaking the design but I think I`m close to finding a good structure for these rank and flank minis.
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Nov 24, 2017 10:37:47 GMT -9
I like the way this is going!
The effort/looks ratio is getting better and better.
Did you glue them to the cereal-box cardboard and laminate with duct-tape?
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Post by pavaro on Nov 25, 2017 23:33:41 GMT -9
For what it is worth, the way I deal with the detail issue is to draw actual size (i.e. 30 mm to the eyeline) and 300dpi but then I zoom in to 200% when I draw and pull back to 50% regularly to make sure what I am drawing will read "on the table." But I almost always do mods of digital images while your facebook/blog looks like you work with pencil and paper. I understand that you draw a 300 DPI for all process? Even after increase? In this topic I test two variants of drawings. I direct the question to all what do you think which it is better? 1. Drawings in 300 dpi when model have about 60 mm. Then final effect reduced by 50%. or 2. Drawings in 600 dpi when model have about 30 mm. No reduction.
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Post by creyates on Nov 28, 2017 3:44:11 GMT -9
Hello all! I hope everyone had a great weekend. I've been itching to get back to work on this project. I've got to say, the daily grind of trying to get my illustration career off the ground has worn me down quite a bit over the past few years. These paper minis have provided me with another outlet for my artwork that just happens to sit in that sweet spot where so many of my interests intersect. Your guys' input and participation has been very refreshing! I'm glad you think so Papercraft Warrior! I've been doing a lot of thinking and tinkering to try and get that ratio just right. I think we're almost there. To answer you question, yes, that's how I made those. I print them out onto your standard copy paper, gluestick them to the construction paper/cardstock, and then laminate with packing tape. I cut them out and pose them while the glue is still wet. They get surprisingly rigid once the glue sets. This process is almost exactly what Wyloch does in his crafting videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWWu9Ny8cW8&t=365s) and has worked the best for me so far. I've experimented with glossy photo paper, but the ink tends to flake at the edges and creases. I've also tried some self adhesive laminate I found at the dollar store. I think it's for protecting school books etc. but it's quite a bit thicker and more fiddly than the packing tape. The main problem I'm facing at the moment is with the alignment before gluing, during the cutting process, and when posing the figs haha. Any suggestions? pavaro I think it comes down to how you like to work. I believe what you're describing in both cases would result in about the same final image. However, whenever you reduce an image in size, the linework tends to appear tighter, and any "mistakes" will blend together. So as for the "better" option, I'd say a combination of both; start with a high res image, and then reduce in size. Though I could be wrong, too much math involved. I'll post another progress shot asap. I'd like to make a set of finished illustrations for this regiment and combine them to make several different poses/weapon combos. The idea is to have a fully realized unit of 20 strong with command, that looks great on the battlefield.
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Post by Vermin King on Nov 28, 2017 4:33:19 GMT -9
They appear to be aligned correctly on the page, so they are positioned properly. For ease of cutting and to avoid alignment issues, try making the black border on the back wider than on the front. Small alignment issues disappear when you do that.
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Post by cowboyleland on Nov 29, 2017 20:51:06 GMT -9
I understand that you draw a 300 DPI for all process? Even after increase? In this topic I test two variants of drawings. I direct the question to all what do you think which it is better? 1. Drawings in 300 dpi when model have about 60 mm. Then final effect reduced by 50%. or 2. Drawings in 600 dpi when model have about 30 mm. No reduction. [/quote] Yes I always leave gimp at 300dpi. I have never experimented with printing anything higher resolution. I don't feel like I am missing any details when I print.
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Post by creyates on Dec 1, 2017 8:07:34 GMT -9
Howdy everyone! Been working on the final swordgobs unit. Here's a quick snapshot of the progress. I will of course be adding color and back views to these. I wanted to have a solid drawing to be able to offer b/w versions. I'm going with a fantasy Scythian/Assyrian look for these guys. I'm thinking of setting up a patreon and marketing these to tabletop gamers, particularly Kings of War players. I'd like to go through as many of the armies as possible. Btw, these were made in photoshop at full size (about 23mm to the eye) at 300dpi
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Dec 1, 2017 8:52:14 GMT -9
Splendid anatomy and costume design.
If you want to offer the lower gobo row in finished works, take care to leave certain parts of anatomy in dark shadows. I remember some fantasy RPG book having problems because of Minotaur illustration with bulging phallus. Not that I find it offensive*, but some people could, and you want to minimize chances of furious customer complains.
* To be honest, I find wiggling gobo genitals hilarious.
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Post by berneart76 on Dec 1, 2017 9:17:22 GMT -9
* To be honest, I find wiggling gobo genitals hilarious. Wiggling Gobbo Genitals would make a hilarious post-punk band name...
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Post by creyates on Dec 1, 2017 9:34:30 GMT -9
Papercraft Warrior haha! I forgot i left those in there. Just a little laugh while working. Can't take anything too seriously. But no, I included the bottom row just to show the anatomy. The finished gobbos should all be geared up for battle. Thanks for the kind words!
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Post by creyates on Dec 4, 2017 13:01:04 GMT -9
Another update on the goblins. Not sure if spending so much time on the drawing is the best idea; I plan to paint over most of it for the final color versions. However, I believe some people enjoy coloring the minis themselves, so I wanted to include the linework. Either way, I am thoroughly enjoying myself! Vermin King I took your advice and went with a slightly thicker outline on the backs. Haven't made any prints of these yet. We'll see how they turn out. Once I'm done these, I'm going to mix and match some limbs and heads to make some variation. Will keep working and updating as I go!
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Dec 6, 2017 8:59:31 GMT -9
The rear outline can be 1-2mm thicker than the front one to help with the misalignment, but you do not have to think about it until you finish the drawings and want to print the gobos.
Do the things you like the most, so the euphory train can choo-choo for as long as possible.
Looking forward to seeing more of the gobos.
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Post by ignatious on Dec 6, 2017 13:45:21 GMT -9
I echo the sentiments of cowboyleland, regarding the anatomy of Silvertounge. It is something that always bothered me, but the idea of dragons is so cool that you find yourself willing to let things slide. I'm pleased that you didn't, without going the forelegless route.
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Post by creyates on Dec 6, 2017 18:24:16 GMT -9
Here are the first 5 all done up! I'm really happy with how they turned out. ignatious thank you very much. Its always rewarding when someone enjoys my work! I'm glad those details were noted. Working on some variations now. Excited to get them all printed and ranked up. Thanks again to everyone for the input.
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Dec 7, 2017 9:05:19 GMT -9
Every time we say good things about you work, you return with it improved.
We shall have to ration our praises wisely, lest you transcend the realm of human capability and dissapear into thin air.
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Post by creyates on Dec 7, 2017 11:24:19 GMT -9
Haha what great praise! I got a great kick out of that one! Thanks The feedback definitely helps keep me motivated. Its tough when it feels like you're just shooting everything into the abyss without every knowing how/if people are responding to it. I don't think anyone who really loves doing their creative thing does it for the likes, but it is a great way to communicate and connect with people.
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Post by creyates on Dec 12, 2017 17:55:25 GMT -9
Just recovering from a bit of the flu. Feeling better. Here are the goblins with some variation. So these are intended to fill the back ranks of a unit. For the front ranks I'd like to make some more variations with raised weapons and with command (musician, standard bearer, and unit leader). Initially I was thinking of releasing these guys for free, and offering the front ranks sheet for patrons. What do you guys think? I want the free option to have enough variation to look good on the table, but the paid option needs to have enough extras to merit the cost. Another idea I had was to offer unit extras such as alt shields, banners, trophies, etc. Also toying with the idea of adapting each unit for 15mm...
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Dec 13, 2017 1:20:05 GMT -9
Sounds good. Aside from being generous to people with limited disposable funds, you also aid the marketing effort with people spreading the news of the free rank and file troops, leading to more people finding out about the paid options.
For the paid options, you could include some champions with nicer looking gear (ancient blades, great axes, runic swords etc), some fancy shields, and alternate chest plate and regal helmet.
In the banner department, take great care not to get into IP infringement problems. Find examples from history where you like the crest, than draw them and mention from where inspiration came from. If someone does not like that your crest design is similar to his IP... well, it is his problem for basing them on designs from public domain (ancient history).
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Post by creyates on Dec 13, 2017 19:39:10 GMT -9
I'll keep all that in mind moving forward. Thats exactly what I had in mind for the champions btw! I printed out the set and put them together. I believe the alignment issues I was having earlier were due to the piece of card I'm using as a support for the copy paper. I'd like to experiment with cardstock or matte photopaper to eliminate this problem. However, after assembling a few, I got the hang of it. Maybe the shields are a little big. Also the axe head with the spike at the back proved too fiddly to cut out. I'll keep that in mind with future designs. I think I'll tweak the workflow to allow easy weapon swapping so that I can adapt these guys as spearmen. Overall I'm really happy with how they turned out. If anyone wants to take a whack at them be my guest! I can almost call them finalized now. I'll have to start working on getting them out there and making a Patreon page...or a kickstarter maybe?
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Post by Papercraft Warrior on Dec 21, 2017 2:12:05 GMT -9
I thought to let forum artists talk you through it, but since everyone is away on holidays... I'll try.
***
On patreon, you need to deliver every month if you want them to be happy. Thus, same as with blogging, a years stash of finished work before you begin is well advised. Six months if fine, three months is stretching it.
Illness, natural disasters, pets and other issues have a tendency to rear their head when you lest expect it. A stash of finished works enables you to buffer it.
For the price points and the works for each... there are other artists on the forums who sell their wares through patreon and drivethroughrpg. It would be impolite of me to compare their price points and quality of work. You can search through the forum and see what they offer on which pricepoint. See the averages and than take the price in the range 50-150% of the average.
From what I have seen, most patreon artists earn from a few dozen, to (low) hundreds per month. Keep it in mind when you think about that yacht.
***
For the kickstarter... having the base offer and the first few stretch goals finished before you even begin is a must. Most of kickstarter projects that get funded end up unfinished due to personal issues. You need to make sure you deliver everything you promise on time, it increases the chance of your future projects getting funded too.
You will need to share the word of kickstarter a month to week before it even begins to build up the hype, and once it starts, you need to be there to answer any questions at least once per day. If you do not, people will go to finance projects where organizers are more responsive.
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Advice I can give is to forget about the kickstarter for the time being, and focus on patreon. Low funded patreon is in the process of picking up the steam, while unfinanced kickstarter is a failure. And forget not, the patreon provides regular monthly income, while kickstarter is a one off payment.
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Post by creyates on Dec 21, 2017 5:06:40 GMT -9
Thanks very much Papercraft Warrior, your advice has been a great help. I've been doing some research and you've confirmed much of what I've been pondering. I agree that having that backlog of content would really be a good idea before getting out there. I think having a years worth made available and then a years worth of back up upon launch would be ideal! Alas, that's asking too much at at the moment. Maybe I should wait for now, part of me wants to dive in headfirst, but I think doing a bit of both is a good compromise. I'm thinking I could probably manage to set up a few months of releases during the first few months and keep working ahead to have that buffer. Once the Patreon starts producing some revenue, I can spend more time on it and hopefully end up at a comfortable schedule. I just can't wait to get these out there! haha I'd like to offer a large portion of the work for free. The idea is to enable more people to play these games that would otherwise not be able to. Also, I think people recognize and respond to that. I have visited drivethrurpg a few times but otherwise am unfamiliar with it. As for Kickstarter, I think you're right. It makes more sense to go down that route once I have everything pretty much done. It would be cool to find a printer/cutter and be able to offer a physical product (gets me excited just thinking of the packaging, box art, and all the extras) which only requires a few drops of glue to be table ready. Something for the future.
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Post by cowboyleland on Dec 21, 2017 6:47:52 GMT -9
Keep it in mind when you think about that yacht. And then build a little one out of paper.
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