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Post by lightning on Jan 19, 2018 0:04:14 GMT -9
While preparing my next set, the Samurai Village, I have starting to make the fold-flat adaptions. I have tackled the easy walls first. Over on my Patreon I have an article showing the current stage: www.patreon.com/posts/fold-flatting-16487110I know it's nothing new but I thought I share my process anyway. Maybe we can improve it together Basically it's a connector tooth every one inch grid on the top and bottom of the wall and a connector slot on the side of walls. The one connector per inch is just the systemic design, if wanted one can "merge" say two connectors into one wider one as needed as you maybe don't want to cut out many connectors on long walls. On the other hand if you would keep your walls in the one inch grid, you could develop a system of parts that would always interconnect. That way I can close the walls and connect them to the floor/ground and roof or just use clamp parts to hold the walls together and form them straight. As one can also connect walls vertically (going up the levels of a building) I will have to test how the straight connection will look with textures. I have a couple of ideas that might look better if needed. Also I have to think about how higher floors would fit into that equation. I design my models more "finite" and not too modular but I still love a well thought system. So if you guys want to participate and help build an open system, chime in and let me know what you think. If you want to test build also let me know and I will make a test file available.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jan 19, 2018 7:56:59 GMT -9
That way I can close the walls and connect them to the floor/ground and roof or just use clamp parts to hold the walls together and form them straight. This intrigues. Wall joins are the next great fold-flat problem - I've been looking for (brainstorming) alternatives to TLX posts or bobby-pins for awhile now. I'm still not satisfied with the methods I'm using now...
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Post by lightning on Jan 19, 2018 8:53:45 GMT -9
That way I can close the walls and connect them to the floor/ground and roof or just use clamp parts to hold the walls together and form them straight. This intrigues. Wall joins are the next great fold-flat problem - I've been looking for (brainstorming) alternatives to TLX posts or bobby-pins for awhile now. I'm still not satisfied with the methods I'm using now... You mean interior walls? Or walls in general? The challenge for me is the T-connection. A corner would be like the outside walls, but one wall running into another is my challenge. I have some ideas but not tested anything yet. I will continue my testing soon, once I have finished the ground tiles for the village.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jan 19, 2018 8:54:18 GMT -9
BTW, I see your patreon is "per month" and not "per project."
I backed another designer that was per-month and found that I stopped when their productivity ebbed and flowed (mostly ebbed.) I had no interest in sending money if they weren't building anything. If that creator had been "per project", I'd likely still be backing them.
At least in that case, the per-month model created artificial pressure that was not helpful for anyone.
Likewise, if yours was per-project I'd be backing it now.
But, whatever works for you!
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Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Jan 19, 2018 9:05:37 GMT -9
My destroyed village building set used tabs that slip in between the wall layers. It wasn't the worst thing, but I found it more fiddly and time consuming than I enjoy (and I get to use a robo-cutter!) That said, the pieces held together pretty well, I could make some complex-shaped structures, and roofs should be able to slip on in a similar fashion. With textured tabs, I don't think they stood out much in the corners. Stacking walls was just like connecting two straight walls, except the slots were on the top/bottom rather than the sides. It worked. To hold a floor in place, I just used a couple scored tabs to make a little ledge. The floors were just 2-ply cardstock/photo paper, and generally held up well enough on their own.
Your work is gorgeous - I look forward to seeing what comes out of you applying your creativity to this problem.
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 19, 2018 9:17:10 GMT -9
T-connections shouldn't be a real problem. Going back to a freestyle building set I had as a child, I know how I would do those. I'll try to whip something up tonight as a demonstration
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Post by lightning on Jan 19, 2018 23:10:52 GMT -9
T-connections shouldn't be a real problem. Going back to a freestyle building set I had as a child, I know how I would do those. I'll try to whip something up tonight as a demonstration Yes, please. I would love to see your way of handling that. My destroyed village building set used tabs that slip in between the wall layers. It wasn't the worst thing, but I found it more fiddly and time consuming than I enjoy (and I get to use a robo-cutter!) That said, the pieces held together pretty well, I could make some complex-shaped structures, and roofs should be able to slip on in a similar fashion. With textured tabs, I don't think they stood out much in the corners. Stacking walls was just like connecting two straight walls, except the slots were on the top/bottom rather than the sides. It worked. To hold a floor in place, I just used a couple scored tabs to make a little ledge. The floors were just 2-ply cardstock/photo paper, and generally held up well enough on their own. Your work is gorgeous - I look forward to seeing what comes out of you applying your creativity to this problem. Thank you! I know the tabs can be a little fiddly but with my approach to make the inner wall a little smaller and thus forming a ledge, I can insert the tabs more easy by pressing them against the outer wall for guidance into their slot. Plus also with this I find that the more you train it you better and fast become at inserting the flaps! BTW, I see your patreon is "per month" and not "per project." I backed another designer that was per-month and found that I stopped when their productivity ebbed and flowed (mostly ebbed.) I had no interest in sending money if they weren't building anything. If that creator had been "per project", I'd likely still be backing them. At least in that case, the per-month model created artificial pressure that was not helpful for anyone. Likewise, if yours was per-project I'd be backing it now. But, whatever works for you! First of all thank you for the first feedback I have received on the Patreon thing. I felt like no one wants to talk about this topic in public! For me finding the current setup on Patreon was a bit of a nightmare. I have spent weeks trying to figure out a way that works for my products. I spent hours trying to explain my problems fitting my work into unified reward layers to my better half resulting in a hug or two but not being able to make it clear to her To not confuse this thread I will continue this in a separate thread here: cardboard-warriors.proboards.com/thread/8818/patreon-puzzlement
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 19, 2018 23:16:36 GMT -9
Sorry about not getting to this tonight. Errands and spending quite a bit of time tweaking this month's hoard files, and building the APC and a 4X4.
I'd started working on setting up the files for the demo, and got distracted
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Post by lightning on Jan 20, 2018 10:17:08 GMT -9
Sorry about not getting to this tonight. Errands and spending quite a bit of time tweaking this month's hoard files, and building the APC and a 4X4. I'd started working on setting up the files for the demo, and got distracted No need to hurry. I have so many other things to complete but I would be very interested in your take once you get a chance.
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 21, 2018 16:53:48 GMT -9
And I spent longer with my grandson tonight than I intended. I'm probably not going to get much of anything done tonight
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 22, 2018 18:33:47 GMT -9
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Post by lightning on Jan 23, 2018 4:20:29 GMT -9
Okay, I threw this together. I took the Asian Tower and created a long wall and a fold-over short wall to 'T' into. Great! If you don't want to put the T-Wall in, you could even have a cover up part for the slot. I have had a similar idea but the bottom of the long wall was was not split, only the bottom half. But I don't remember why I did it that way. Maybe so the long wall does not bend as easy.
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Post by lightning on Jan 24, 2018 22:18:11 GMT -9
I remembered I made the connectabases some time again and adjusted the fold flat to that. The pointed flaps makes cutting out the flaps a little easier and also alot easier to insert. Here's how it looks with the samurai village house I will tackle the t-wall section on a larger set. For now I have to try out the iriyoma (japanese) roof as fold flat.
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Post by lightning on Jan 26, 2018 1:52:42 GMT -9
I am able to report that the roof also works great with the system. That is the roof layout ... ... and to hold it in place (although it seems I don't really need it as the roof does not fall apart without it) the bottom clamp part.
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