i wanted to know if someone wil to pay 1 $ for a set of 10 fantasy desert skeletons guards?
This depends very much on what you intend the set to contain. For example, many of the Mayhem in Paper mini sets on DriveThruRPG retail for $2.95 and contain between 8 and 10 different minis with full front and back artwork. Some sets are larger than this, and a few sell for $4.95, like the Elf Army sets. Many come with extras too, such as bases, and banners for the army sets especially, and features like cutfiles for robocutters.
On a fantasy desert theme, the Jabbro Jones Just Deserts in Egypt set contains contains 17 different minis of sometimes very different forms and sizes, and retails for $3.95.
I've chosen these two manufacturers because they have a style not dissimilar to your own, though there are other Egyptian paper mini sets beyond these, like those from PERMES (Ancient Egyptian Bundle link - historical-style minis), for instance.
If all the minis in your planned set will also be different to one another - so each armed and armoured differently, and in various poses - a $1 price tag would be quite generous. If the minis will be all identical to this one, that could be more problematic, because most people, including myself, would be looking for as much variety as possible within the overall theme in any minis set.
As a test, you might try selling the set under the Pay What You Want option, where people can choose what to pay you based on what use they get from the set. It's not quite the same as the "Free" option, because although people don't have to pay anything under PWYW, they can always come back later and pay some actual cash then, if they didn't pay originally.
One thing I'd definitely suggest would be adding a black border around the minis to assist those cutting by hand, like those added to all the sets linked-to above, as well as the CWF monthly Hoard sets available from the Downloads link at the top of every CWF page here.
Post by Vermin King on Oct 13, 2018 13:05:13 GMT -9
Basing is somewhat problematic these days.
A search in the forums for 'bases' will yield a lot of results. The One Monk style of basing with the base tabs separated by a fold line is popular. It can be used with the One Monk bases or Litko bases. Very versatile.
I don't use the clear Litko bases and like the flat base options. bravesirkevin's figure layout uses side-by-side layout. I like the style, and it makes using flat bases easy. Even though it should be easy enough to use that style for One Monk style bases or Litko, my general feeling is that folks prefer over/under front/back layouts. When I do figures, I put the fold line between over/under front/back sides, but separating the heads, not the bases. My feeling is that it makes it equally easy to go One Monk style, but easier to do flat basing. The trick doing it that way is to have the tops of the base tabs line up. That way you can have a fold line for all the figures, if you choose to flat base, or you can omit that fold and use traditional basing
I hope your question brings a lot of response
There are no strangers in this world,only people I haven't embarrassed ... yet!
I don't use cutfiles either, but our resident expert on such matters on the CWF is mproteau (Paper Realms) who should be able to help.
For basing, I use flat bases only now, so as long as there are tabs, or enough blank card below the feet of the mini for me to create my own tabs there, I have no problems with how the figures are laid out on the page. The key thing is to have a clear fold line so the front and back of each mini will match up exactly once folded and glued-up.
The desert texture sample you showed would be ideal for me as a base cover. I'd simply print off a page of this onto suitable paper, cut out an appropriate area from it for the mini(s) I'm basing, cut a slot to slide the foot tabs of each mini through, then fold the tabs out and glue them to the blank side of the base texture piece. The base texture and mini I'd then glue onto a piece of thick card (I use mountboard, sometimes called matboard) cut to exactly the same size as the base texture piece.
For these minis, I'm not sure flags would be appropriate. Ancient Egyptian military standards seem to have had a variety of forms, but mostly consisted of an object like an animal, a deity's head or a symbol, such as a boat or a stylised papyrus flower, set on a long pole, sometimes with a pair of tasselled streamers. These examples are from The Project Gutenberg eBook of Flags, as a quick idea from online:
Post by cowboyleland on Oct 14, 2018 6:43:35 GMT -9
I realised while I was reformating some figures for home use that (when the figures are laid out with the backs below the fronts) you can simply leave a 1 pixel gap between the tabs. This creates the effect of having a white line to score and requires no ink!
On the other hand, maybe it's the herd that is crazy.
the only thing i cannot do is the autocutter file... i ve never seen one... is it hard to use? what program is used and where to buy? and how do yuo base them?
Regarding cutters, I can certainly lend some expertise. The machines of choice are the Silhouette brand machines (the Curio, the Portrait and the CAMEO). I can't speak about the Curio much other than that I believe it does the cutting necessary. The Portrait will work with Letter sized pages. The CAMEO supports wider materials. I currently use a first-generation CAMEO (I think they're on the 3rd generation) and love it. I previously used a Silhouette SD (which is comparable to the Portrait) and loved it. I can't comment on machines by Cricut or Brother (or others) but I can say this. They need to have some mechanism for calibration otherwise you can't print-and-cut. Moreover, I looked into making compatible files for Cricut, and I found their software not up to the task for what I do. I continue to only support making Silhouette compatible files.
The software, Silhouette Studio, has its quirks, but is free to download and use as far as I know. There are other editions with special features that cost money, but the free version is all I've ever used. The way the machine works is this: When you print, you have to print with special "registration marks" in the corners. The machine's cutfiles include information about these marks, so when you attempt to cut the page, the machine will use an optical scanner to find the marks and calibrate itself, so the cuts are made in the right place. There's a restricted area for putting graphics, because you can't interfere with the reading of the registration marks, and you can't go outside the bounds of the available cutting area. If you'd like to support these machines, you have a couple options.
Option 1: Don't make cutfiles. Just rely on people doing tedious work to use a cutter. This is not altogether terrible for most minis. For terrain and buildings and stuff with larger pieces, this can be problematic. But for minis, you can actually slice apart the image inside Silhouette Studio, line the pieces up with cut lines, print from Silhouette Studio to get the right registration marks and then cut the minis out with the machine. It's a big hassle compared to alternatives, but not impossible.
Option 2: Don't make cutfiles. Just lay things out to make it easy for others to make cutfiles. If you make sure to keep everything within certain boundaries, people can pull the whole page into Silhouette Studio at once and align it with the cut lines. Still a bit of a hassle, but not as bad as having to really cut up the page and slide things around.
Option 3: Don't make cutfiles. Provide proper registration so your PDF can be printed normally, and let someone else make the cutfiles. This is kind of a sweet-spot for letting the community help out. My opinion is this - if you don't own a cutter and don't know if you have all that many customers that make the extra effort worth your time, just make it easy for cutfile creation and leave it to the community. I have a couple different PNG files I've shared that include registration marks. They can be included as layers in a PDF. If you include them and do nothing else, someone may make cutfiles and share them with the world.
Option 4: Make cutfiles. You'll still want to do one of two things. Either include the registration marks in the PDF so users can print and cut easily, or include your artwork inside the cut files, and make cutter users always print from Silhouette Studio.
I've made a lot of cutfiles, and I've experienced options 1 - 4 first-hand. I'll explain my experiences here, with some references:
Option 1: When I fell in love with my cutter, there were a LOT of minis that didn't have cutfiles. There still are... But I have some sets that were formatted for A4 paper that I couldn't even print on Letter sized paper, and some PDFs that tried to maximize the layout by putting graphics in with very tiny margins. I can't find explicit sets fast enough, but I know I've had them. Generally, I could make cutfiles where I'd take pieces of the art from the pages of the original PDF and basically re-layout the product within Silhouette Studio. As a user, it is enough work that I tend not to bother. There are too many minis I have to cut that are easy to cut out.
Option 2: I've been starting to do a lot of Trash Mob Minis cutfiles. Those sets I'm working on don't have registration marks in the PDFs, but the margins are large enough that everything fits very nicely when brought into Silhouette Studio. It's easy for me to make cutfiles for these, and provide instructions to people about how to pull the graphics in.
Option 3: I've convinced a couple artists to start including registration marks in their products. They may not make cutfiles, and that's fine. For me (a guy who makes cutfiles for other people) it still feels like Option 2. But for everyone who uses my cutfiles, they simply have to print the PDF, load the printout into the cutter and go. Very simple.
Option 4: There are many artists who make their own cutfiles. Printable Heroes, Kev's Lounge, and even Squirmydad here provide cutfiles. Printable Heroes includes artwork *in the cutfiles* so you don't print the PDF. You lay out what you want, print from Silhouette Studio and cut it. Others include the reg marks in the PDF and provide cutfiles that are compatible with the printouts. I'm old and grumpy, and have run into cutfiles that I've just not been happy with. I'll try to list a couple things that bother me below, but in general, I personally don't use cutfiles I didn't make, because they generally don't follow the rules I've committed myself to.
Making your own cutfiles:
First, don't let Silhouette Studio trace things for you. They have a neat trace function. I use it for some craft projects, but you have to know what you're doing, and it generally makes messy cutfiles. You should be using the polyline tool to trace around each figure. Trace the top, lay down the middle scoreline if that's what you do, then mirror the top to the bottom, align it, connect the shapes, etc. I lay down straight polylines, then once I'm done with the top half, I select the points and smooth them as curves. Double-check that everything looks good before mirroring. After mirroring, double-check to make sure the front and back really do line up. If the don't, make the back half larger where necessary, and then mirror it to the top.
That's the first thing?!? What else?
Second, don't be crazy with the detail of your cuts. I mean, try to preserve as much detail as you can - bumps and wavy edges that follow a contour are fine. Lots of jagged bits, though, will yield ugly cuts and be difficult to edge.
Third, don't try to cut out TINY negative space. They can be a pain to pop out if they don't cut well, or clean up off the carrier sheet, and their a pain to edge. Once you're done assembling, you may not even notice the small circles you opted to cut out. Just be conscious of it. I don't have a hard-and-fast rule about sizes of cut shapes.
Fourth, be REALLY CAREFUL not to have single-point polylines in your file. I've seen some cutfiles people have tried to make, and the software does no favors with this. If you start a polyline and then try to cancel it, it may have created a single point in the document. These actually make the file size bigger, make interacting with the file slower, and can crash Silhouette Studio. It's never a bad idea to select regions of your cut lines and make sure you don't have stray marks creeping in.
Fifth... You know, I make a lot of these, and most of this becomes second nature... DOUBLE CHECK that you've assigned cut styles correctly. I've made this mistake with some of my cutfiles, and I'm not the only one. If you accidentally make a score line into a cut line, you're possibly going to ruin a whole page.
Sixth! I'm on a roll... Don't use dashed line styles to do perforations. Use a solid line and set its style to perforate. The cutter will only drag the blade where there's a line, so it's actually going to perforate the dashed parts, making weird, tiny perforations. I've also seen cases where the cutter really makes bad decisions on how to follow the lines while doing it's work, and it bounces back and forth between two dashed lines that are near each other. Knowing that the cutter only follows where the lines are drawn, don't go getting clever and use a dashed line set to cut to do a perforation. The typical dashed line is different than the typical perforated solid line, and (at least to me) it feels very different.
I'm sure there's more, but I've been typing for a long time now, and kinda want to do something else.
I'm making cutfiles for stuff that doesn't have cutfiles. If you're an artist who is planning on selling minis, and you'd rather have someone else make cutfiles for you, you might want to consider my $5 tier. It's possible one of my patrons will ask for cutfiles for your stuff, and I'll make them. It's also possible that you'll get lost in the ocean of awesome minis from veteran mini makers. If you're in my $5 tier, you can request a specific cutfile set be made. I don't have a lot of patrons, but I do have a couple followers on social media, and I try to take photos of the minis I make cutfiles for. When I hit 10 patrons, I'll do more of that! So, for $5/month you might get a new set's cutfiles made AND some advertising to an audience interested in paper stuff. You'll have access to me via Discord, too, for chatting about paper related stuff. I'm considering a $10/month pledge that would be specifically for vendors that would like to shoot me something before it is released to get cutfiles available simultaneously. I don't expect many vendors would necessarily jump on that, but I'm open to the idea... I'd limit the number, because I'd hate to have a dozen new mini makers optimistically jump on that bandwagon and swamp me with requests!
Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Oct 14, 2018 8:17:31 GMT -9
Another comment on my shameless Patreon plug... I'm wedded to the 4mm tabbed bases that are commonly used here in the hoards. I use Litko bases for my minis. When I make cutfiles, I try to make them not only in the style they're designed for, but also with 4mm bases that fit my Litko bases. Otherwise, I'd never enjoy all the minis myself! It turns out this is not all that difficult (just takes more time...) to do for the flat style that Kev's Lounge uses or that Trash Mob Minis now uses. It's also not hard to convert the round bases that Trash Mob used to use, and I believe that Printable Heroes uses.
mproteau (Paper Realms) wooooo a huge amount of text!!!!!! sorry for my late reply !!!! i have to digest all those words... but i understand one thing ... better let you do the dirt job aniway... thankyou
forgedchaos: Nah we need a gold team!
Sept 17, 2019 18:24:50 GMT -9
uptrainfan89: I agree, lots of awesome stuff going on! Side note now we just need a green team lol!
Sept 17, 2019 17:40:33 GMT -9
okumarts: Exciting times on the CW forum!
Sept 17, 2019 15:29:48 GMT -9
squirmydad: I have now started conversations with all 3,174 forum members.
Sept 17, 2019 11:32:43 GMT -9
squirmydad: Yes, I was playing with color coding for group membership and with the ranking stars. Some membership tweaks coming soon.
Sept 17, 2019 10:26:31 GMT -9
wyvern: So Blue is Illuminator Scribes, Black is Publishers, and Red is Admin plus everybody who isn't black and blue. Is that right? Or did some of us just fall down the stairs to end up black & blue? Looking interestingly different, regardless!
Sept 17, 2019 9:38:13 GMT -9
oldschooldm: I'm so blue....
Sept 17, 2019 7:21:47 GMT -9
uptrainfan89: Go Blue Team. Lol!
Sept 17, 2019 6:01:09 GMT -9
squirmydad: It means you can vote in the next Papercuts Showcase. Illuminated Scribes are members who have contributed to the community.
Sept 16, 2019 21:10:16 GMT -9
okumarts: I say... things are looking spiffy on here
Sept 16, 2019 21:09:53 GMT -9
Coyotepunc: Oh MY! I seem to be an Illuminator Scribe now. I have no idea what that means
Sept 16, 2019 19:25:11 GMT -9