|
Post by thoughtcontagion on Dec 17, 2018 13:43:55 GMT -9
So I want to make a cut file for Dave Graffam's free Hovel. I did not see any files in the Automated cutting files subforum. When I make a cutfile for something I create (or for something I am just using myself) I make the PDF with the registration marks on the printable image. The Hovel does not have these. How can I make it so that others can use my cutfile with the original PDF and be sure it is going to cut everything properly? My typical process is open the PDF in GIMP and import the page I want at 300dpi. I export as a JPG at 100%. I then put the image in Silhouette Studio and put its upper left corner at 0,0 (unless the image goes outside the cutmarks or printable area). I then setup the registration marks and print it as a PDF. I then do my cut and score lines. Will that still work on the original files? Or, are we supposed to give the creator the PDF with the image and registration marks to include in their download? Here is a quick cutfile that I made for the hovel. I have not tested it yet but would appreciate any suggestions (are my cut and score settings good, placement of cutting, etc.). Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by oldschooldm on Dec 17, 2018 15:24:03 GMT -9
There are example instructions several places - check the posts in this self-same forum (just about any cutfiles that we've made for early Dave Graffam, Lord Sze Sze, and others will have them.)
Do not redistribute the original art.
|
|
|
Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Dec 17, 2018 15:41:16 GMT -9
The cutfiles can't contain the original art, but what you've linked to there is fine as it's just the cutlines. I typically do the same thing myself to get graphics into studio, but there are other ways as well. What you do is fine.
You don't need to print-to-PDF - you can print right from Silhouette Studio. If you're going to do this multiple times, you can keep a personal copy with the art right in the cutfile and print from there. Again, can't share it like that, but you can't share the PDF either.
Dave's started putting registration marks on his newer models. I can't imagine he'd go back and reformat the older models, but I'm not him.
You've gone and set this up with "advanced" cut mode, and all the lines are solid. Does it perforate/score the lines? I'd think it'd cut all those lines. I don't know. I only use the "Standard" cut settings, and while all the lines I draw are solid, I set the score lines explicitly to be "Perforate" rather than "Cut". I think perforating a solid line is different than cutting a dashed line, but I may be imagining things.
In terms of line placement... they all seem to line up, so if it cuts for you, great! I can imagine older machines (pre-CAMEO/Portrait) might have trouble with the tiny margins and tiny registration marks, but it's totally possible for someone else to adjust things to their liking.
|
|
|
Post by triopticon on Dec 17, 2018 16:57:34 GMT -9
You've gone and set this up with "advanced" cut mode, and all the lines are solid. Does it perforate/score the lines? I'd think it'd cut all those lines. I don't know. I only use the "Standard" cut settings, and while all the lines I draw are solid, I set the score lines explicitly to be "Perforate" rather than "Cut". I think perforating a solid line is different than cutting a dashed line, but I may be imagining things. Thanks for the reply and all the suggestions. I’ll be testing it out today to see how it goes. I set it to score the lines based on the color so it changes the blade depth properly for the green ones. I’ve never tried anything with “Perforate” so I may try that to see how it goes.
|
|
|
Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Dec 17, 2018 16:58:53 GMT -9
Aah. I don't have an automatic blade, so I don't get adjustable depth stuff.
|
|
|
Post by sunraven01 on Dec 26, 2018 5:45:30 GMT -9
You've gone and set this up with "advanced" cut mode, and all the lines are solid. Does it perforate/score the lines? I'd think it'd cut all those lines. I don't know. I only use the "Standard" cut settings, and while all the lines I draw are solid, I set the score lines explicitly to be "Perforate" rather than "Cut". I think perforating a solid line is different than cutting a dashed line, but I may be imagining things. Thanks for the reply and all the suggestions. I’ll be testing it out today to see how it goes. I set it to score the lines based on the color so it changes the blade depth properly for the green ones. I’ve never tried anything with “Perforate” so I may try that to see how it goes. For the cut files I make for my personal use, I always use perforations instead of scoring -- you don't have to worry about whether it's a mountain or valley fold that way.
|
|
|
Post by triopticon on Dec 26, 2018 11:36:23 GMT -9
For perforated which line do you guys use?
Holidays have kept me from making any progress on my hobbies. After New Year’s Day I should have more time.
Thanks for all the help.
|
|
|
Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Dec 26, 2018 17:01:17 GMT -9
For perforated which line do you guys use? Holidays have kept me from making any progress on my hobbies. After New Year’s Day I should have more time. Thanks for all the help. Solid lines. If you use a dashed line, it will only perforate the solid parts of the dashed line, which I find ends up with a lousy thing to fold. Try making a couple rectangles with different score line styles down the middle, and you can see what you get.
|
|
|
Post by oldschooldm on Dec 27, 2018 10:00:16 GMT -9
Using different colored solid line also makes it easy to do the emboss-as-score technique with two "bladed" cutters, like the Curio and the newer Cameo: Select-by-color the score lines, select cut, tool Embosser. :-)
|
|