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Post by godofrandomness on May 21, 2009 0:49:12 GMT -9
The only way to reliably do this is get ahold of a printer used by a CCG maker, as they would be the ones closest to perfecting this, adn even they get tons of misaligns aftrer a while.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 21, 2009 0:45:30 GMT -9
I recently changed how the bases I have been using are made. Previously I had been taking Jim's blank bases for the size I need, removing the tabs that normally cover the tab under the model's feet, coloring in the central blank spot and folding the rest underneath. Well one day I decided I got tired of all that excessive folding and tried something else. I currently am jsut drawing circles of appropiate size, and filling a 8x10 page worth, and am glueing a sheet of black cardstock onto the backside both for extra support and to take care of coloring in the bottom (previously I had been coloring in the bottom with a sharpie). Here is an example: Even with the second page glued under, it nets me more bases per sheet than my previous method did, though I do think GIMP has been resizing my images when printing, and I cannot seem to reduce the margin at the bottom enough to avoid cutting a small piece off the bottom row. That may be a limitation of my current printer (HP PSC 1610; it's not supported for vista 64 by HP so I thinik I had to trick it to using a generic or xp driver if I remember right)
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Post by godofrandomness on May 21, 2009 0:31:24 GMT -9
My gaming group and I have been using these for our DnD 3.5/Pathfinder games. For a while I was running a campaign where the villans the party fought every week was based on whatever set I just recently purchased and cut out.
I also want to use these for some war games, but unfotunately my gaming group only is interested in either 40K or warmachine, where Onemonk's corresponding minis are rather limited.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 20, 2009 8:31:42 GMT -9
I let mine sit for a while before cutting them. I only use a stack of books (or something similar) if I'm cutting out large pieces (such as a building). But if you try to cut too soon, it can cause problems. One reason I use glue sticks (elmers--purple, dries clear) is the low water content. Dries quick, no warping I guess the warping depends on the brand of glue stick. WHen I started cutting out figs, I was using the Michael's generic brand gluestick, and it seemed to warp like crazy if I didn't get the model glued and under something quickly; though I admit I was inexperienced and was probably using way too much glue.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 20, 2009 8:21:30 GMT -9
Things are looking good so far. You have been making a bunch of great looking figs that fills holes left behind by Onemonk, and I hope you keep cranking these things out.
As for colored outlines, they only work well with figures that a glow or aura would be expected. For example, Onemonk's banshees and ghost (or maybe spirit, I can't remember at the moment) from an undead set have a blue or grey outline respectively. After I glued and cut out the figs, I outlined with a coreponding color marker, and they look nice.
The only figure he has done so far with a colored outline IMO is the radiation zombie. The yellow just contrasts a bit too much with the green of the figure (at least wehn printed on cheap cardstock). If the outline was done with more of a greenish yellow, it would blend a lot better and enhance the glowing feel of the figure.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 18, 2009 18:18:22 GMT -9
I do have one question to those of you who use matte photo paper. I'm having a go at using it to make 15mm figs (a 6x4 sheet of photo paper is exactly the right size to accomodate an A4 sheet at half size). But I'm having trouble with gluing. The photo paper is nowhere near as porous as my normal cardstock, so my PVA just doesn't grip, and I need an alternative adhesive. I've heard mention of Aleene's tacky glue being used, but that's not available over here - does anybody have any more widely-available alternatives? Glueing is the second reason why I dont mess too much with photo paper (first is cost; the slightly higher cost for the paper and the larger amount of ink required adds up pretty quick). For some reason the glue pens I use didnt hold the different photo papers I tried out didn't hold very well. That could have just been me though.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 15:56:26 GMT -9
That's perfect. I can make a master board from my Worldworks Chunky Dungeons set. Once I finish my 100th figure set I'll start some of these side projects. JIM Not to side track the board or anything, but including any soon-to-be-available sets, how many sets are you up to now?
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 15:53:02 GMT -9
Yeah that's my current knife when using the small blades. I love it, though I still have to put on a pencil grip to ease the stress on my hands during long cutting sessions. However, ideally what I am looking for is something like this one but supports the blades for the larger size x-acto knife.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 15:50:04 GMT -9
I too second the 110lb cardstock, as the wal-mart stuff is the cheapest available (at least here in so cal).
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 2:18:14 GMT -9
I can't find/remember the original topic where these dragons got posted, but since its a savage worlds product, I am posting here. Here There Be Dragons: www.tripleacegames.com/Downloads/SunderedSkies/TAG10009E.pdfI just finished assembling and modding the black dragon in the set. I flattened it, trimmed out excess blacked out areas on the legs, pinched the nose of the face, and mounted it to a base appropiate to a colossal size DnD dragon (6"x6" but it seems that GIMP shrunk down the base when printing by about a 1/4 inch, grrrr...) Forgive the fuzzy pic, my camera phone is on the fritz.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 1:49:49 GMT -9
Update: I haven't forgotten about these; I just have been busy with 50 million other projects, work, injuries (4 ft backflops onto concrete really hurt), and I just haven't had too much time to work on these. I still have a mind to do them though so please bear with me.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 1:09:19 GMT -9
Yeah its's working fine now, server must have been down or something the first time I tried.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 0:22:09 GMT -9
I'm trying to find a better #2 x-acto knife (the one that supports the larger blades) than the basic one. I want to find one with a better grip as I am tired of impaling my hands when I go to put on a pencil grip on the one I have for better comfort. I have different ones with built in grips for the smaller knife but nothing for the larger. Does anyone know of any out there?
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Post by godofrandomness on May 17, 2009 0:13:52 GMT -9
I went from about 1 fig an hour (cutting out only) when I first started to about a sheet an hour (including outlining and basing) give or take (really depends on the sheet) after a bit of practice. It's like anything else; the more time invested, the better you become. With enough practice, you will probably learn that using the hobby knife will be faster and more precise. Overtime you will learn what the best method for you would be. I would also recommend trying out different styles of hobby knife blades. www.hobbyplace.com/tools/xknives.phpA lot of people here use the standard knife with the generic #11 blade, but I personally use the #16 and the #26 as I seem to break less points with these. Whichever blade you use, I recommend stocking up on spare blades and change them frequently or whenever you break a point. A sharper blade makes cutting quicker.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 15, 2009 13:40:46 GMT -9
dead link...
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Post by godofrandomness on May 13, 2009 14:47:19 GMT -9
Yup, Hasbro bought the IP shortly before they made their HeroScape stuff. That is why the two games look strangely familiar. They have all the old manuals on their Customer Service site. I'm suprised they could post the manuals like that. I could have sworn all the art and at least a few of the figs are GW property, like the chaos warrior, chaos sorceror, fimir (AFAIK this game was the only way to get a model for a fimir), and the gargoyle looked strangely like a bloodthirster. It was a shame I lost all the figs for my copy a few years before getting into gaming long ago. I had taken them over to a friends house to use with a DND board game he had, and lost contact with the guy shortly after...
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Post by godofrandomness on May 13, 2009 9:42:27 GMT -9
Ok just an update for now.
I think I have heavily revised where I am taking this game a bit.
I currently an putting all my notes to keybard and and am assembling a bsic rules package. I plan on releaseing this in a seties of 3 "books." Book 1 will have all the basic rules to my game, along with templates and hints for converting from the 28mm scale to whichever mini scale you would want to use. It will also have the rules needed for making custom units, and will have the army construction rules.
Book 2 will contain predesigned factions based off a fantasy world of my own design, with Onemonkian figs as a reference for troop type. Currently I am planning for 3 factions: a human nation, a high elf nation, and a skeleton based undead faction, but I plan on adding at least 3 more factions to this book which may or may not be based on Onemonk sets, depending on what's available
Book 3 will contain the rules for the custom heroes amd extra rules for adapting to a roleplay setting. This book will also have a gazeteer style section to go over general fluff of my setting.
Depending on how fleshed out and how much time I can dedicate to this project, I may want to take this commercial. However I will have a better clue on that when I get further down the road with this project.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 6, 2009 10:13:50 GMT -9
This is what I am thinking for the generic troops. Let's say we're using the Elven faction. There will be a bse stat line for generic minions, then a modifier from the faction to alter the base stat line into something a little more towards the theme of the faction. Then weapons, gear, and abilities can be picked from lists and would adjust the cost of the unit. This enables adding more unit types to the game just by generating more list options. Heros will have more options with the skill trees but even basic trrops will be custom, and I can keep everything in theme by controlling what goes into those lists.
If someone would want to adapt the units to their own setting, it would just be a matter of adjusting what is available to what lists.
I am currently working on a fantasy theme for now, but I will look into expanding into scifi later on.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 6, 2009 9:47:57 GMT -9
I've gotta say, I'm finding that pricing your models is probably the most difficult thing about writing a game. Getting a decent set of rules is (fairly) easy, but working out a way of costing models, especially when (as I do) you want players to be able to create their own units and price them accordingly. I still want fully customisable troops; I just want them to be the stars, and not the full army. I want to be able to add and expand the fluff and it's going to be much harder to do that if there isn't set themes. After development, even most of the generic troops should have some sort of customizable options, but that will be later on.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 6, 2009 9:26:53 GMT -9
Ok trying to design and balance custom built units is taking up too much time. I am going to instead start working on themes ofr factions, and prebuilt troops for each faction. Custom heroes will probably be put off until the core game itself is developed, and will be added on as an expansion. I will post more later.
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Post by godofrandomness on May 4, 2009 16:17:25 GMT -9
If the item is a picture file, i use www.imagebam.com. It's really good for quick picture uploading, and can handle muliple files at once, up to a 3 meg limit per file. For other file types, I haven't tried this one too much, but looks tempting: www.filehosting.org.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 30, 2009 11:53:08 GMT -9
I also forgot to add theres a plug for Onemonk's stuff at the back of the file too!
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 30, 2009 11:29:51 GMT -9
I should also suggest that being paper, you can simply grab the figure from the set and scale it up. With paper you are never restricted to the size you get, make it fit what you need. JIM If the need arises for a giant bat, that is my plan. However these bats were already printed and glued together, just waiting for a base. I'm probably just going to use a 20mm base and be done with it, but I just wanted to know if anyone knew of any "official" giant bat stats in d20/dnd before basing, just in case I missed something. EDIT: I totally didn't even consider checking 4e stuff, and right there in the base monster manual they have stats for a medium size bat, so I will use a 25mm base and reference that.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 30, 2009 0:11:52 GMT -9
I have been basing the size of my model bases around what the size is for the creature (or an equivalent one) in Dnd 3.5. Howeer, I have been stumped by Onemonk's giant bats form the witch set. I think they use a 20mm base (which would be size small in dnd) but the only things listed in dnd anywhere that I have seen is the regualr bat at dimunitive size (2 sizes smaller than small) or large for the dire bat (which is a 50 mm base.)
Does anyone know anywhere of a bat type creature that is either size small or medium in DND/OGL/D20 stuff?
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 28, 2009 23:44:22 GMT -9
A while ago, before I started messing with GIMP, I wanted to attempt to hand color Onemonk's set of B&W DP figs. After the first fig, I lost interest/became busy/was distracted by something shiny and moved on with something else. However a freind of mine picked up the mantle and carried on. They are now finished and scanned into my computer so I am posting them here. You will have to forgive a couple mistakes, like for example the green halfling, as she is not into fantasy stuff at all. My scanner doesn't do some of these justice, as she used a kind of glittery gel pen that came out really nice. There are 2 sets, and also a page of some colored B&W figs I think I picked up in the over-soul games forums, but I am not sure. I originally scanned these into TIFF format, but used MSPaint to change into JPG to be able to upload to imagebam. If they are low res, or don't look right, let me know and I will email the TIFFs if anyone is interested.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 28, 2009 16:10:54 GMT -9
Thanks, guys. I've started using the one monk minis for monsters and NPCs with the Fat Dragon sets. But the players all have their favorite painted metal minis and I have a lot of metal mini monsters and NPCs. So, for now, it's a mix of metal and paper minis. I'm working on an encounter set now. I'm doing the old Forgotten Realms 2E adventure under the Twisted Tower in Shadowdale, but modified using 4E rules and scaled up for 4th level PCs. Here's the situation: The party has finally penetrated the underground drow stronghold, where dwarves are being used as slaves, and also being transformed by fowl magic into an army of gibberlings that the drow plan to use to overrun and retake the Tower of Ashaba, from which they were driven centuries ago. The party has come upon a room (they can peek in) in which dwarven slaves are being used to forge weapons. To ensure the compliance of the dwarves, the drow have the dwarf women and children in a cage next to another cage containing a large Cave Troll, famous for their ravenous and indiscriminate appetite for living flesh. A drow guard is holding down a lever that, if released, will open a door between the two cages, allowing the Troll to enter and devour the women and children. The PCs have to think of a way to launch an attack that will not end in the death of many women and children. Once again, the dearth of non-combatant NPC minis, in this case dwarf women and children, is annoying. Since they may become combatants, defending themselves from the Troll, I need to have them for game mechanics. Also, in terms of the pathos of the encounter, I want to have them represented by more than just colored tokens. I'm open to suggestions for what I could use. I'll post some pictures when the set is done. www.oversoul-games.com/dungeonplungin/Dwarf_Heros.pdfTHere are some Dwarf figs on the last page. I know they aren't civilians, but at least they are dwarves.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 26, 2009 16:21:54 GMT -9
If you have a special color in mind for a dragon, let me know and if I can rememebr how I did the color change, I will gladly work on it. First, thanks for reposting these for others to enjoy! Second, how about a white dragon. Shaded just so with lt.grey. Also a zombie dragon would be cool as well. Thanks. Ray I shouldn't have too much problems making a white dragon, but I cannot guarantee when. However I will get it worked on ASAP. As for the zombie dragon, that would take a lot longer and I cannot guarantee much for that. Unless I can find a pallete for undead flesh I can plug into GIMP, it will take some detailed coloring and whatnot. I've got a couple projects eating at my time ATM for that (working on a 2D dragon, designing a new game, running/assembling figs for a pathfinder game, and theres that new Valkyrie Profile for the DS I picked up a few days ago) but I will see what I can do.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 25, 2009 22:39:13 GMT -9
I just have had issues with super glue keeping its hold it seems. I ahve had to rebase several figs because they fell off when I used superglue.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 25, 2009 20:24:51 GMT -9
If you have a special color in mind for a dragon, let me know and if I can rememebr how I did the color change, I will gladly work on it.
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Post by godofrandomness on Apr 25, 2009 19:38:43 GMT -9
I found a simple solution for my tacky glue/matte photo paper problem.
1. Grab any 2 leftover HP 95 or HP 97 ink cartridges (or anything else L shaped)
2. Cut off tab of mini and apply glue to bottom.
3. Hold in place with ink cartridges.
The L shape is just perfect for keeping the fig centered without getting stuck in glue and making a mess. I just put some tape over the spot where ink is susposed to come out to prevent any mishaps on the fig.
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