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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 21:54:59 GMT -9
Thanks!
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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 14:47:03 GMT -9
I showed a friend some of the paper figures I've been working on and he pointed me to a program called Pepakura?
Has anyone had any experience with it? Is it worthwhile for gaming figs or is it more for buildings and sets?
I've seen ppl create figures with pepakura, but they usually seem much too large for a game. (cept maybe bosses)
I'm pretty good with a 3D modeler so that's not an issue for me on the learning curve.
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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 14:26:25 GMT -9
That's a really nice figure... very unique. I hear 300dpi works best for printing... Thanks. Took your advice, switched it out with a 300dpi version.
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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 14:23:12 GMT -9
Real quick coin I made to give to my players when they did something cool. They can then spend it on attack, defense, saving throws, whatever. (300 dpi)
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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 13:56:28 GMT -9
No-name, red shirt soldier. Printed up about 20 of these as-is, double sided, for a D&D 4e game. Made for great minions who "pop" with 1 hit. Gonna make em look all nice now and give em an actual back
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Post by kricket on Jul 26, 2009 13:48:53 GMT -9
I am full of fail and I apologize for taking so long. Nearly a month after the figure hoard ended! How does this work for releasing "finished" figures? I had it to scale in Photoshop (at 800 dpi) and I first tried exporting it to 72 dpi for the web but it seemed to small. I ended up exporting to 144 dpi. (EDIT: Replaced image with 300 dpi version) The shading/shadow work on the backside is different from the front, but hopefully not too much. The way I did the front was a lot slower, messier way than I learned to do the back.
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Post by kricket on Jul 19, 2009 15:52:26 GMT -9
How's this guy coming along? onemonkeybeau Sorry, work and RL got in my way and Ive been extremely busy lately. For the DND game I just ended up mirroring the front. I'm gonna finish this guy up this week and post him.
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Post by kricket on Jun 24, 2009 20:15:18 GMT -9
I just have one question: how does a wild west era saloon serve cold beer? "Some saloons had ice houses or cellars where they would store huge blocks of ice cut from a nearby lake. Old West historian Kathy Weiser cites the Laguna Vista Saloon in Eagle Nest, N.M., as an example." from www.legendsofamerica.com/WE-Saloons.htmlTho it says ice cellars were more the exception than the norm.
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Post by kricket on Jun 24, 2009 19:24:20 GMT -9
Thanks everyone,
5 poses?! egad. Won't happen for quite a while, too many other figs to draw.
Going with a red/silver scheme for an evil look, it's part of an invading army.
Workin on the back, nothing to post atm.
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Post by kricket on Jun 23, 2009 13:32:53 GMT -9
Spent much more time on this than I wanted to, couldn't help it, I'm really proud of it.
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Post by kricket on Jun 23, 2009 13:31:57 GMT -9
I got a lot of great comments on him from around the board, thanks!
I haven't heard of Magination, I'll have to look that up. As for more, they're comin, check out the Crystal Knight thread!
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The Law
Jun 22, 2009 21:57:26 GMT -9
Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 21:57:26 GMT -9
Lookin good!
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Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 15:30:58 GMT -9
Thanks guys!
The legs are thin, but I'm probably gonna leave solid black between the two.
I've got to draw and cut a looot of minis this week for Saturday's game, so not gonna go uber-detailed.
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2.5d?
Jun 22, 2009 13:22:10 GMT -9
Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 13:22:10 GMT -9
Interesting, thanks! I may try something like that.
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Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 12:27:34 GMT -9
A large, 50mm figure I'm working on for my upcoming 4e campaign. Also for the monthly figure hoard. In my campaign crystals are used as a magical power source. This is why it has 4 large ones in its back. The big right arm will have a ranged attack to grab players and pull them or just swing em around and toss. After being defeated the pilot (probably a gnome or halfling) will jump out of the hatch in front and continue the attack!
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2.5d?
Jun 22, 2009 10:40:30 GMT -9
Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 10:40:30 GMT -9
I've seen '2.5d' mentioned here several times, are there any good examples of 2.5d figures someone can link me to?
Im curious to see how they look and if I want to try building any.
Thanks!
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Post by kricket on Jun 22, 2009 10:35:08 GMT -9
GrendelKitty, I <3 your avatar!
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Post by kricket on Jun 19, 2009 11:13:22 GMT -9
Thanks Dagger, Jabbro. He makes his own armor and weapons (at the cost of XP!) so he makes sure to take care of his equipment. Many, many layers of turtle wax. The blue shading is actually meant to be light given off from the rune. But still, I really did rush the back. Didn't color many of the ink lines like I did for the front as well as other shortcuts. If I didnt finish it this morning I wouldn't have time to glue it/cut it for my D&D game tomorrow
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Post by kricket on Jun 19, 2009 9:18:56 GMT -9
Yay, all done! I'll be sure to post a pic once I've glued it together and cut it out.
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Post by kricket on Jun 19, 2009 9:17:51 GMT -9
She looks great!
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Post by kricket on Jun 17, 2009 21:48:13 GMT -9
Silly me, forgot about the back! NOW I can get down to coloring! btw - I love cloaks. Such a nice cheat to skimp out on the back, heh. jabbro Thanks for pointing that out, missed it! Very cool! and welcome to the group! I don't need to add anything that hasn't been said already. It is worth forgetting everything you know about foreshortening and perspective, it just doesn't work right with the figures. I like your loose drawing style for establishing the designs, and the nice chunky style of the hands, they will look perfect scaled down. I really look forward to seeing more designs from you. JIM onemonk Thanks, I plan to do quite a few more of these. I'm planning a nice lil D&D adventure for the group I play with and I'd rather draw all my own critters than spend a ton on plastic. It's funny, while teaching myself to draw the past few years I've been trying to draw more and more perspective/foreshortening. Gonna be a lil hard toning that back
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 22:54:28 GMT -9
Inked! Color tomorrow
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 20:50:27 GMT -9
Thanks for all the great advice, here's version 2. I think I can get away with the foreshortening in this one. In the previous his arm was straight out, here's it's still slightly bent. Steve, you're totally right, I need to reverse the runes, I'll do that when I ink it. I also widened the cloak a bit, connected em to the bottoms of the hammers so the figure overall will be less flimsy.
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 19:54:19 GMT -9
Looks mean! Very nice.
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 15:24:32 GMT -9
Here's a video I made a while back regarding this... I'm actually in the process of making a whole series of these... this was a test version... but possibly helpful nonetheless... my newer ones are much better ... and shorter. I was going to scrap it... but I'll throw it up here until the newer ones are complete. video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8120009204693162022&hl=enThat was an incredibly helpful video, I'd love to see more of them! Thank you.
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 15:21:50 GMT -9
What's your character's name? I notice he has the futhork symbol for "M" on the face of the hammer in his left hand, and for "K" on the other one. You may find that having his arms project forward out of the picture plane may cause some difficulties when you detail the backside. Foreshortening doesn't look right from the back. If you put his arms more straight out to the sides, they will be easier to draw, and the figure will be more useful if you want to swap weapons or perform some other modification. You can make them look dynamic by the way you angle them up or down. I like the figure. You have a strong drawing style that projects character. Very good! Thanks Jabbro and Stevelortz, I hadn't thought about how foreshortening looks from the back, I'll have to try and fix that. The runes.. His name is Krick. My initials are M.K. I thought it might be funny to have him hammering my/his initials into every monster he pounds into pieces.
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 14:35:23 GMT -9
If you are totally new to cardstock modeling then you will find it "tough" on your fingers and hand at first. Not saying you will build up calluses but your hand's muscles will strengthen with time. One tip with cutting - don't try and curve your blade's stroke too much in one cut. If you are doing a rounded edge take your time and shift the blade tip as it moves around the edge. Also try and let your cardstock dry totally before cutting - less "rippage" potential. Thanks for the heads up. I think I should be OK, years of manhandling a wacom pen has toughened up those muscles "Scoring" is a way of preparing fold lines so that they make a clean fold right where you want the fold to be. Scoring can be done by making a very light "cut" with a very dull blade, or by compressing the cardstock with a pointy blunt instrument like a burnishing tool or a ball-point pen that has run out of ink. Since nearly all fold lines are straight, it's very, very useful to guide your scoring tool with a straight-edge of some kind. Aieee that makes sense. I did it the old fashioned way, all thumbs. I'll try it that way next time. Thanks!
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 13:54:35 GMT -9
Pre-sketch for my first figure. Based on my D&D 3.5 character, a dwarven fighter/battlesmith w/2 warhammers.
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 13:41:47 GMT -9
*tip* I use a dulled blade as my scoring tool. onemonkeybeau Thanks onemonkeybeau, I'll try that technique for curves. The bases I'm cutting out (blank 25mm circles) only have a very thin line, but figures with a thicker outline ought to turn out much better. What is scoring exactly?
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Post by kricket on Jun 16, 2009 12:40:59 GMT -9
I use 110lb card stock and cut through in one slice... I use the stab and pull method... stab the tip into a corner and then pull the blade along the line I want to cut... Ok, I'll try that then, thanks!
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