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Post by gawd on May 5, 2009 10:17:46 GMT -9
Whoa, nice pics and great demonstration of your point. Your units look great. Would you mind posting an Army List that tells what minis you're using for your units? My sons and I are looking at starting some "PaperHammer" Kill Teams and Combat Patrol type games and when I showed them your pics from your Full Scale One Monk Sci-Fi armies pics they were very impressed. So much so that I went online last night and bought all of the Hybrid sets. BTW, if you're interested, there are some nice IG paper models at this site: www.goldenboltersociety.com/paperhammer40k Just scroll down the page. Thanks for posting the new pics. Luckyjoe I'm not using 40k rules in these pics, but they can definitely be used to fill out a 40k list. As for how the stuff you're seeing here is organized ... The basic TF trooper units that I've posted in this thread and others are composed like this: 7 TF troopers + TF trooper leader (dude leading the way) + 2 TF special weapons Sometimes, those units are supplemented by models from the free auxiliary set (CO, 2iC, medics, engineers/sappers, melee specialists/ninjas). The big Hybrid swarms are composed of 4 Stalkers & 12-20 ~1/2 size 2d Stalker mods by Chris Smith from Forum Hoard 8. I also used his 2d mods for the Slitherers, using Jim's 2.5d version for that unit's leader. btw: The terrain is from WWG's Exteriorworks: Hinterlands set.
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Post by Aestelon on May 16, 2009 10:05:23 GMT -9
I was about to chuck out an empty cardboard box earlier when I noticed it was one of those glueless jobbies that holds together only with locking tabs, and that got me back to thinking about the folding terrain malarkey. Taking a little cue from the box, I redesigned my original hill pieces, which didn't hold together very well. Now they do. I may extend some of the slot tabs along a bit to improve the strength around the slots, but I think I'm onto something. Here's a shot of a pageful of components, including a 2x2" riser, two slopes and a corner piece. And here are the corner and one of the slopes opened up, to show how they come in net form. They're hollow-bottomed, so they don't take up much space, and also means you can easily get at the tabs to disassemble them. Dead easy to cut out and assemble, and so far they appear to be pretty sturdy. For larger pieces, you could always increase the load-bearing ability simply by adding a cross-brace (two strips of card slotted together in a X-shape) and placing that under the block. I'm going to look at making a few other shapes and see about texturing them. The system should work just as well for buildings too.
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Post by jabbro on May 16, 2009 11:59:01 GMT -9
Nice work, Aestelon. That will look nice when it is textured and set up. Being hollow, they would be stackable for those of us who don't want to undo the tabs all the time.
Can the figures stand on the slopes, too, or do they slide off?
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Post by Aestelon on May 16, 2009 12:20:31 GMT -9
Thanks. These slopes are 45 degrees, so figs won't easily stay on them. But I intend to knock out some 30-ish degree ones as well, so they should hold them just fine.
As for stacking, they sort of do, but not overly well, since the pieces are obviously about the same size, so they'd need a bit of stretching to fit over another piece. Plus the tabs being inside makes it a little harder, too. It works to some extent, though - the slope pieces certainly fit inside each other reasonably well.
To be fair, though, each component can be disassembled and reassembled in a matter of seconds.
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Post by kane on May 18, 2009 6:29:10 GMT -9
Nice work, Aestelon. Have been thinking of how to go about doing this myself and I think you have hit on it perfectly. I've built some of WWGs hills and that bottom makes them a HUGE pain. I'm thinking just having the support beam will make the bottom unnecessary.
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Post by Aestelon on May 18, 2009 7:39:46 GMT -9
Thanks. Having a bottom also uses up more ink and card that you don't need to. Even the crossbraces seem to be unnecessary at this size, as they can quite comfortably accommodate even metal figs without. They 'd be useful for larger units and for successive layers, though.
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