|
Post by squirmydad on Jan 9, 2010 15:32:19 GMT -9
I want to reduce the number of base styles and sizes, so any new base texture styles are more manageable. Right now there are simply too many sizes and styles, and it takes FOREVER to make new versions, hence the reason I have not done any more.
I want to settle in just the most common and useful sizes and shapes. Please vote for what you actually use, instead of just wanting it to be available for some possibly someday you might like to but probably won't ever use for any other sizes.
At least the movement trays are easy, nobody has requested any other than what is already done. I have easier to build designs done, and just need to replace them when I have time to build some samples and photograph them. JIM
|
|
|
Post by stevelortz on Jan 9, 2010 16:03:02 GMT -9
I use mostly 25mm octogons for the majority of my figures, with 20mm octogons for the smaller ones. I use 1" x 2" pills for mounted figures and large monsters.
I wouldn't mind a more limited number of sizes and shapes, but I like a wide variety of textures.
You've been a formative influence on the cardstock segment of our hobby all the way from the days of MMiP to the present. It's good to see you continue to evolve, and to encourage other people to step up to the bat as well. Thanks, Jim!
Have fun! Steve
|
|
|
Post by emergencyoverride on Jan 9, 2010 16:42:30 GMT -9
I just use the super nice octagonal acrylic bases from litko in all sizes, but when If I was to use paper again, it would be 25mm and 20mm octagonal with 1 x 2 inch pills like Steve. ;D
|
|
|
Post by Dryw the Harper on Jan 9, 2010 17:58:00 GMT -9
I would love 20mm and 25mm Pills, thank you very much.  Dryw the Harper
|
|
|
Post by WaffleM on Jan 9, 2010 18:46:06 GMT -9
I use mostly hex bases, but I've made my own to ensure that they are "regular" hexagons. Slightly skewed hexagons make my brain go funny, but that's my own insanity taking over...
|
|
|
Post by Floyd on Jan 9, 2010 20:06:04 GMT -9
I like 25mm-30mm bases. I used to use round for scifi and square for fantasy. 1 guess where that format came from!? But in the last few years have switched to octagonal bases. I find the angles extremely useful for facing/flanking mechanics used in a variety of table top skirmish games. Pill for calvary/dragon types.
Circle/square/octagonal are what I'd imagine as being the most used by gamers.
Something you might consider doing is providing a 3x3 square of texture. That would allow people to make there own variety of base sizes and shape needs. Without having to provide so many different premade shape customs. Though I guess providing other designers texture swatches may require an agreement from them.
-Floyd
|
|
|
Post by tabris on Jan 9, 2010 20:30:10 GMT -9
I use 25-30mm minis on a octagon foamcore base, i've done myself a sheet of pure octagons using the textures from the site, i just glue those octagons over the foamcore and cut.
I also change the base size depends on the side and format of the creature i'm printing. I use D&D size categories as a standard like this:
Small = 20mm Medium = 25mm Large = 50mm
I'm not sure if i'm right about those sizes, but that's what i'm using now.
|
|
|
Post by silentsquirrel on Jan 10, 2010 2:42:28 GMT -9
I use octagons in the 25-40mm range. I like octagons because I find cutting out perfert circles to be difficult and an octagon looks really nice as a substitute. Further, I do skirmish forces and not full-size armies, so the ability to rank up figures with square bases isn't something I need to do.
FYI, I mount my octagon bases on to cheap self-adhesive floor tiles. This adds weight to the base and helps keep the figure standing up during play. Plus, the cheap tiles are easy to cut with scissors and can be edged in black. It's a nice effect that I couldn't achieve with circle bases, so I love those octagons!
I agree with what was said above about keeping those textures available. That way we can make our own bases or overlays in case we need a base type or size that isn't available.
|
|
|
Post by old squirmydad on Jan 10, 2010 9:05:35 GMT -9
The poll wouldn't allow me to answer this question the way I wanted to so here's the longer version of what I use; Square; 20mm, 25mm - for rank and file troops in army blocks. Circle; 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 - the 25mm circles get the most use Rectangle; 25x50 - cavalry bases Pill; 25x50 - non-cavalry horse-like and other creatures. I also use the hex-flat bases, but only for the small collection of starships I have and I made my own starfield texture for them. I think you should leave up the blanks for all the sizes as DIY bases are very easy to do for people who want a particular style and texture combo that they don't see. 
|
|
|
Post by magpiestear on Jan 10, 2010 9:18:49 GMT -9
Ok, I mostly use octagons for skirmish games, nice and easy to cut out and look good, base sizes range 20-40mm depending on the figures (though I have used a couple of 50mm's) oh and pill shaped or rectangles for cavalry etc.
For mass battle games, mainly fantasy I tend to use square bases in the same sizes as above plus rectangular or pill shaped for cavalry. Choice of square and rectangles is mainly due to ease of use of them in movement trays, although I had been toying with fixing the bases to the trays and just slipping the figures in and out of the slots.
|
|
|
Post by jabbro on Jan 11, 2010 8:37:27 GMT -9
Here is a suggestion along Floyd's lines. Why not provide a full sheet with a texture and layers on top with each base as a PNG. That way you can have the white space and the cutouts in the center, and depending on what layer you have on, is which one will print. This way you can use the same PDF template and just change the bottom layer each time you have a new style.
If you want, I can work up something for you.
|
|
|
Post by squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 9:57:53 GMT -9
Oh, I like that idea! I could keep the entire thing as one file by doing several layers of texture, and all the different bases and white pace above. This way if I want to add a new texture, I simply add a layer, and done!
The work involved would not be any more than 1 set, so I really like this idea. I can do different sets for each publishers texture sets. Very good idea!
I have noticed with everyone's comments, that I need to actually make MORE shapes than less. Serves me right for asking. ;D JIM
|
|
|
Post by old squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 10:40:34 GMT -9
Here is a suggestion along Floyd's lines. Why not provide a full sheet with a texture and layers on top with each base as a PNG. That way you can have the white space and the cutouts in the center, and depending on what layer you have on, is which one will print. This way you can use the same PDF template and just change the bottom layer each time you have a new style. If you want, I can work up something for you. This is exactly what I have for my base creation master-layout file. 
|
|
|
Post by squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 11:00:13 GMT -9
I feel so STUPID now  I have been doing them all from single layouts and hand replacing all the textures in each base, DUH! I really need to figure out how to integrate this stuff. I can see so many opportunities to use this layered method for the trays as well. I know I could use them for the figures, but just haven't figured out how to use them to make things EASIER for me, rather than harder. I'll test this with a set of figures and see if I can do a layered set of customizable figures. At least I can see some optional weapons load outs and gear. I don't know about alternate colors though, might be too complicated. JIM
|
|
|
Post by old squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 13:37:10 GMT -9
Texture file goes at the bottom, base shapes in the layers above, turn on a layer, hit 'save as pdf' action, turn off layer, turn on next layer, repeat. 
|
|
|
Post by jabbro on Jan 12, 2010 5:03:05 GMT -9
Don't feel bad, Jim. I did not even think about layered PDFs until I saw what Dave was doing with them. After that, it was like having a brand new toy. 
|
|
|
Post by squirmydad on Jan 12, 2010 6:51:24 GMT -9
I have known about using layered PDF's for some time, but wrote it off as just more work that it was worth. I still think it's too much work for figures, but for the bases and trays, I can see the advantage.
I'll also test out a set of figures to see what can be done easily. The bases are a done deal, and are in line to be redone right after I get all the revised figure sets released. JIM
|
|