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Post by Tommygun on Feb 4, 2011 0:07:05 GMT -9
This is an idea I have been thinking of for a while. I would like to make a modular "Habitat 67" type of a building in 28mm. My version will be smaller and simpler. I want it to break down for storage as well and this is what I have in mind. Each module will be made as an unsupported rectangular box, a bit like a match stick box for matches. When the roof and floor piece is inserted into the wall piece, they will support themselves, but fold flat for storage. Two of the modules will then be held together with bobby pins in an offset letter "T" shape (almost an "L" shape). Then they can be stack on top of each other to form multistory buildings. The balconies will be separate pieces and not be fold-able. Assembly of a module.  Stacking pattern of the modules.  Habitat 67 |
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Post by Reivaj on Feb 4, 2011 5:03:04 GMT -9
WOW, good idea Tommy !! ;D Where are that buildings from??  |
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 4, 2011 5:56:21 GMT -9
These buildings are in Montreal. They were built for the World Exposition in 1967. Montreal is just 2hrs down the road from me, but I've never gone looking for them. Who is it that makes those fold flat shipping containers. I think his website is in spanish. It has been mentioned on this forum before. Maybe adding some tabs and slots to his basic boxes would be enough to create this effect. Edit: Found it! www.toposolitario.com/workshop/ikube.htmlSo if you cut some paper "hooks" from the parts that get folded under and some slots in the rooves you could probably stack them up in all kinds of wacky ways. |
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 4, 2011 7:04:10 GMT -9
Is it an optical illusion that some of the configurations in the photo look like 'split-level' units? If they aren't, or if you don't choose to do them, what would be wrong with having a chipboard base for each level which could be stacked on the level below.
A level of boxes and balconies, chipboard, boxes and balconies, chipboard, etc.
It wouldn't be interlocking like your image shows, but having each level able to be lifted off, might have some advantage
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Post by Parduz on Feb 4, 2011 14:05:20 GMT -9
While i don't like the buildings, i like the idea of the small foldable "houses". Those can be good for arabian-like houses, that small villages full of sand where you can play good urban guerrilla scenarios....
The only problem i can see with the way they are built is that you may have not perfect flat sides: depending on how much perfect are the dimensions of the two pieces, you may have one piece pushing or squeezing the other, and so the roof (as example) may bend and become curved.
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 4, 2011 17:00:28 GMT -9
Some of the units are split level. Here are some of the other stacking patterns. My idea would allow the builder to use them as individual buildings on the ground or connected together as a larger single story unit or stacked several stories tall. I do have Topos Stuff, but I think I want to give the match box idea a try and see if it will be viable. I do deign all my buildings to be made with heavy 110Lb paper and sometimes re-enforced with chipboard. So I hope the walls and roofs will be straight enough. I will also be gluing a few 1 cent coins to the floors for added weight.  |
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 4, 2011 19:14:25 GMT -9
I'm anxious to see how this works. It would certainly make things easier on storage.
I can picture a hive culture living in something like this.
One question: Are there common areas? I didn't really see anything on the website. Are there lobbies with elevators that go to the different floors? I guess that was two questions ...
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 4, 2011 20:52:11 GMT -9
It has raised walkways, stairs and six elevators. It might have some multipurpose rooms, but no lobby that I know of. It's a very complex structure and a bit hard to wrap your brain around.    |
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 7, 2011 15:58:45 GMT -9
Just wanted to get options on the tinted windows I designed. Do they work as is?   |
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 7, 2011 19:51:32 GMT -9
I think you want some gradiation in the colour, but I'm not sure what direction it should go. Over to you, Parduz.  Edit: On second thought, I'm going to suggest dark blue with a few whisps of cloud. |
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 7, 2011 20:14:50 GMT -9
I think it is fine for the giganto structure, but for the broken down 2 to 4 block structures standing on their own, the windows need some sort of reflectivity. It shouldn't be sky, because the observer would typically be looking down at it.
A detail like that is more obvious on a less complicated structure. On a 40-block structure, I don't think it would be as important.
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 7, 2011 20:22:54 GMT -9
I take VK's point, though I might argue the windows should show what the fig's see from the ground, not what the players see hovering in the sky above the battle. Cartoon windows usually just have a few diagonal lines (white against the black, I should think) to suggest that the opening isn't a simple hole. Edit: Couldn't get the white line thing to work so I used the "cold steel" gradient from GIMP  HabEndsTanWihndows1 by cowboyleland, on Flickr Does the job, I think. |
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Post by Parduz on Feb 7, 2011 23:54:00 GMT -9
Over to you, Parduz. LOL I take VK's point, though I might argue the windows should show what the fig's see from the ground, not what the players see hovering in the sky above the battle. Mmm.. i don't think so. All the shadows, textures and other things you draw are to give the illusion of reality. As you want to "fool" the player's eyes and not the miniatures, i think the windows should "reflect" something the player may see from his point of view. I feel your actual shading "too solid"... they recall me a wall light switch instead of a glass. What i'll do is somewhat similar to the gradient used in the MeckAttack mechs cockpits: an horizontal line with the blue over and the terrain color below. Another classic solution is just a very light cyan and white gradient, in an angled direction (which is'nt somewhat the player could see from above, but it relies on somewhat he's used to see, instead, which is another way to fool him  . |
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 8, 2011 1:46:32 GMT -9
Here are some quick tests. I think I'm going towards some type of white reflection right now.  |
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 8, 2011 5:27:13 GMT -9
I don't think it needs to be drastic. Could #3 and #24 be more of a light grey reflection rather than white? I think that if they were toned down a little, they would fit perfectly.
I like the diagonals better than the horizontals and the arcs. The horizontal ones look like you are seeing the horizon line reflected back, which you wouldn't see as you are looking down. The arcs make the glass look like some of the 1800s glass that is soft enough to settle.
I definitely think you are on the right track
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 8, 2011 9:03:34 GMT -9
YEAH! I like (not that it matters) 2 and 24, maybe without the subtle verticals at the bottom. That was the look I tried to get first but couldn't swing it. Nicely done!
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 8, 2011 15:59:20 GMT -9
I can't change the color on most of the gradients, but I think I can control the transparency level of the glare marks.
I think that will help it look more gray.
I prefer the diagonal ones. The one I like the best is 11, but that only works in red and I think I'll go with just white, as it is more generic.
So no one like the curtains? I'm afraid the windows will be too plain looking without them.
I'll leave them in until I do the test build to see how they look.
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 8, 2011 16:47:53 GMT -9
No, I think the curtains are great. Didn't notice them in the first post. Makes it look lived-in
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 8, 2011 18:34:13 GMT -9
Oh, the "subtle verticles" are curtains. Now that you mention that is exactly what they look like. I'd leave them out, but suit yourself.  |
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 10, 2011 20:49:03 GMT -9
Prototype done.It's a bit larger than I thought it would be. There are two problems: 1) The gap on the side (See Photo below). I can't do much about the gap and still be collapsible. 2) The roof needs support. It won't support minis very well as is. There are some miscellaneous items that need tweaking too. I'm thinking of adding chipboard as well.           
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Post by Parduz on Feb 10, 2011 22:18:54 GMT -9
About the gap, i think there is nothing you can do. If you make the inside part more large the added "tension" could reduce it a bit, but then the risk is to start to see bends on the roof, and changing material (with different weight and thickness) may make interior too large to fit in.
About your roof support, why don't you try with a bent piece of cardboard? Think at a single rectangle of cardboard that, when inserted, has the two sides "sliding" in the two lower corner, and the middle touching the roof (in your side view it will "draw" an half arc,)
If it works, it have the PROS that you dont need to fold it, just bend it half circular, and the CONS that it requires more material.
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 10, 2011 22:42:02 GMT -9
Like this, so it forms a triangle? At least I wouldn't have to glue it and alignment wouldn't be as critical as the bracket I was thinking about. Attachments:
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Post by Parduz on Feb 11, 2011 0:04:49 GMT -9
Yes. I was thinking at an "half-pipe" but it works more or less the same as your "triangle".
-edit-
You should evaluate if it is worthy to build the "interior" without the pavement but with that triangle. You may need a "locking" system (like some box have) to have it foldable flat.
Dunno how well they will stack then....
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Post by cowboyleland on Feb 11, 2011 19:59:02 GMT -9
To hide the gaps, could you overhang the roof "texture page" a little and slip the walls on from the bottom every time?
BTW it took me a few seconds to realise the windows weren't actually reflecting light. Congrats!
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 11, 2011 22:30:44 GMT -9
I think I will have to learn to accept the gap.
Moving things around ultimately only moves the gap to a different spot on the model.
I'll do a model with a door next and then figure out where to add slots for bobby pins.
Three slots on the bottom of the long sides and two on the narrow sides should do it.
Just need to determined the exact spacing.
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 12, 2011 5:19:28 GMT -9
I want to echo cowboyleland. Those windows are spot on. By not using the same pattern on each window, you definitely upped the realism factor.
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Post by Tommygun on Feb 15, 2011 3:55:27 GMT -9
I did the Door module, but it will have to wait for a new ink cartridge. Balconies are next.  |
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Post by kiladecus on Mar 6, 2011 18:14:10 GMT -9
once again, genius and inspiration have become Tommygun!
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Post by Vermin King on Mar 6, 2011 18:29:03 GMT -9
Good to see you, Kiladecus!!!
I was kinda wondering how this project was going myself
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Post by Tommygun on Mar 6, 2011 19:18:06 GMT -9
Hey guys,
Well lets see,I need to finish my Soc boat first, install a wash basin in the house, get a new car battery, do my taxes, go pick up a load of lumber......
I'll get to it eventually, I promise.
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