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Post by aftershock567 on Jul 5, 2011 0:13:43 GMT -9
Just started with the paper miniatures last night when I found this website. I am putting together a bunch of paper minis for an upcoming pathfinder game I am running. I am a wargamer at heart, so I love having my minis look good on the table.
I need some help with making my minis look better. The problem I am having is cutting out the space between someone's arm and body. How do you guys do it and make your minis look so clean without ragged edges? What kind of knives are you using?
I am printing on cardstock at the moment, but I will be upgrading to the photo as soon as I get the chance.
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Post by Parduz on Jul 5, 2011 0:32:09 GMT -9
The problem I am having is cutting out the space between someone's arm and body. About me, if that space is too tiny i just don't cut it, painting it black with the same felt pen i use for edging. How do you guys do it and make your minis look so clean without ragged edges? What kind of knives are you using? I think the english name for it is "XActo". Here it is sold as "Balsa cutter". But then, i bought a lot of "mono-use" surgical knifes. They can't hold the same pressure of the XActo, so i use them for "light" jobs, but they cut so much better (and you don't have to use the only one time as we work on paper ) I am printing on cardstock at the moment, but I will be upgrading to the photo as soon as I get the chance. Some ppl find it too strong. About me again, i ceased to print at home. I use instead an online Photo printing service: i can't beat the cost of 0.07€ for a 11x15cm printed sheet and the paper and ink quality are at the top (superglue or alcohol does not melt the ink). Hope that helps.
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Post by aftershock567 on Jul 5, 2011 0:46:43 GMT -9
Is the printing service using that Photo Matte paper?
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Post by Parduz on Jul 5, 2011 1:34:06 GMT -9
Is the printing service using that Photo Matte paper? You can choose Matte or Gloss. Depending on the paper brand, some are more "rigid" (so great for paper models also) but more prone to gain unwanted scores, and some are more "gummy", less rigid, but the more flexibility makes almost impossible to have accidental, "permanent" scores and bends. Best thing is to try some of that services (some of them offers 10~30 free prints for new customers) and then decide who's the best.
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Post by glennwilliams on Jul 5, 2011 4:49:18 GMT -9
For a knife, try the Olfa SVR-2. It uses strips of snap-off blades (make sure you get their "hockey-puck" shaped disposal). I find them sharper than Xacto-style blades and the snap-off cheapness makes me more willing to start a new blade (I'm a cheap son of a gun). I also find I have more control over the blade and can make straight cuts without a straight-edge. You can find them in DIY stores. I tried the Husky version but didn't like it as well. I had thought its padded handle would make a difference, but, alas, no, nor did its blades seem as sharp (haven't tried it with the Olfa blades).
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Post by labrat on Jul 5, 2011 5:00:17 GMT -9
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Post by Adam Souza on Jul 5, 2011 7:36:34 GMT -9
Most of the time I just fill in the space between arms and torso, and in between the legs, with black marker. On man sized models, or smaller, it looks good. Otherwise, I just use a #11 scalpel/hobby blade.
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Post by glennwilliams on Jul 5, 2011 13:14:54 GMT -9
Yet another reminder that I've yet to setup up my cutter.
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Post by aftershock567 on Jul 5, 2011 21:31:41 GMT -9
Thanks for all the replys! I love my metal minis, but with as many games as I run I don't have the time to come up with everything painted, and hell, some of these paper miniatures look really sweet. Someone had a pic of a stone golem that looked awesome.
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Post by aftershock567 on Jul 5, 2011 22:57:10 GMT -9
Ok I have been looking at that craft robo. Is it worth dumping money into? Is it able to cut the fine details? How easy is it to make one of those GIF files?
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Post by Dominic on Jul 6, 2011 0:03:07 GMT -9
You need GSD files, or, in the new version, .STUDIO files (just to avoid confusion since GIF is an image format). I started making Studio-files recently, but I still have not irones out all the quirks. All I can say is that they do have a learning curve, but it's not too hard if you are motivated. It does have an autotrace feature, but I have not touched that one - well, once, but not since.
As for the Cutter itself, I enjoy mine, and it can get you hooked - I'm not used to picking up scisors any more... It can cut fine details, yes, and if you use home-made carrier sheets (thick paper with non-permanent spray-on adhesive) you can cut down on the cost-over-time factor.
It all depends on what you plan to do, and how many pages you will need to cut.
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Post by pblade on Jul 6, 2011 7:29:08 GMT -9
Hi aftershock,
I've been using a CraftRobo for over a year, and making files for most of that time. I've never regretted picking it up, though I *did* go through eBay to minimize the cost.
The majority of files here - especially the more commercial ones - have cut files made for them already. Making them isn't terribly difficult, depending on just how precise you want to be. For cutting out blank spaces, I find the cutter is much more precise than I, and considerably faster.
The tutorials on the site are still fairly accurate, although the new software can do some things that the old program can't. If you plan on doing large numbers of miniatures, terrain, or have hand problems it's definitely worth looking into.
- Pb
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Post by aftershock567 on Jul 6, 2011 20:14:35 GMT -9
Hi aftershock, I've been using a CraftRobo for over a year, and making files for most of that time. I've never regretted picking it up, though I *did* go through eBay to minimize the cost. The majority of files here - especially the more commercial ones - have cut files made for them already. Making them isn't terribly difficult, depending on just how precise you want to be. For cutting out blank spaces, I find the cutter is much more precise than I, and considerably faster. The tutorials on the site are still fairly accurate, although the new software can do some things that the old program can't. If you plan on doing large numbers of miniatures, terrain, or have hand problems it's definitely worth looking into. - Pb After your input and looking at the vidoes I am definetely getting one. I am currently basing some miniatures and though the foldup bases are ok, they do look a little rough. Anyone have a basing technique that is easy, sturdy, and good looking?
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Post by Dominic on Jul 7, 2011 1:24:53 GMT -9
There are many techniques, most are detailed here somewhere in the forums. I personally use acrylic with hot-glued bobby pins, but I don't have the time right now to elaborate.
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Post by gilius on Jul 7, 2011 3:00:43 GMT -9
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