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Post by Dave on Jan 24, 2012 11:01:36 GMT -9
Working on the river is hard work, and the sight of a floating kitchen brings a welcome break and a hot meal for cold deckhands.  I'm trying to get a paper test of this today. The square on the ground is a square inch, for scale. The roof lifts off, giving access to the tiny cabin where there's a potbelly stove, some overhead cabinets, a spice rack (alternate skin: bookshelf) and counter top (alternate skin: bed). There are large windows in the port side for serving customers. I'll add a tiller/rudder at the back as a 2D piece (not shown here). I designed the portholes so that the pilot can see straight ahead (just a little bit) and through the port side serving windows, so they'll have decent visibility. You can fit 2 minis in the cabin with furniture, and I'll probably offer a bare cabin option as well. |
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 24, 2012 11:39:17 GMT -9
was this inspired by a real thing or a flight of fancy?
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Post by Dave on Jan 24, 2012 14:05:31 GMT -9
A little of both.
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Post by afet on Jan 24, 2012 14:33:10 GMT -9
I like it.  It looks like the model might be quite tipsy with the large sail up so high. Possible solutions could be bringing the sail down a bit, widening the boat or putting weights for the enclosed areas, or all of the above. |
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Post by stevelortz on Jan 24, 2012 15:22:30 GMT -9
I was aboard a submarine in the early- to mid-1970s. We tied up to a mooring buoy in the harbor at Hong Kong for a few days. I remember seeing floating kitchens plying the harbor, serving the traffic there like floating fast-food drive-thrus.
They were junks, though. This floating kitchen seems like something one would find on a narrow-guage, short-run railroad if it was water- instead of rail-borne.
I like this model. I can think of a few player-characters from my campaigns from days of yore who would have used it a base for mobile operations.
Come to think of it, one of those players worked occasionally as a cook on Mississippi tow boats.
Thanks!
Have fun!
Steve
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Post by stevelortz on Jan 24, 2012 15:24:13 GMT -9
Also, I think I could take a boiler off of Fat Dragon's Aerial Steam Carriage and convert this model to a steam launch kitchen!
It would make a good steampunk vessel.
And it could be stabilized by gluing it to a water-textured base that's wider than the vessel's beam footprint.
Have even MORE fun!
Steve
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 24, 2012 19:37:06 GMT -9
I have to agree with Afet on the sail. Nautically speaking, it isn't in the correct position. Moving it forward and downward would make more sense. The sail should just clear the roof of the cabin.  I really like the Sailing Taco Truck concept. I personally would customize it with pontoons on both sides connected to the main boat with flooring over the intervening space. Not quite a patio, more like a walk-up take-out window. I wouldn't recommend that for your model, but as a kitbash. |
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Post by Dave on Jan 25, 2012 6:09:36 GMT -9
So here's the result of my paper test. The main features are the lift-off cabin roof and the removable sails. (I didn't roll or bend my main sail to look wavy before I took the picture, but I did afterward and it looks pretty good.)  |
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Post by afet on Jan 25, 2012 7:23:46 GMT -9
This looks awesome. Was the test build tipsy or fairly stable? What is piece #16 for? Is it optional? It looks like it would be a bit hard to get your hands in there to move minis around.
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 25, 2012 7:50:04 GMT -9
I don't think you would have to worry about that very much cause you can only fit two minis in the cabin anyway. Not a lot of room to move them.
It seems like the mast would be prone to breaking though cause it is only glued at the one point.
Very cute model though. I like the quirky nature of it. Having sailed a little bit though, I think the idea of trying to run a cooking ship through a harbor by wind power is quite comical. There is just no way the wind is reliable enough for that and at dusk the wind dies away almost completely (at least in San Diego bay).
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Post by Dave on Jan 25, 2012 13:29:59 GMT -9
afet: It's stable as I think it can be. If you touch it rocks a tiny bit from side to side for a second and then it's settled. I'm surprised it lays as flat as it does. As it is, it could be mounted onto a foamcore tile with no problem. I have to put some thought into water tiles eventually. I'm going to start using these standard tile sizes (all in inches): 6x6, 6x9, 3x6, 3x9 (and 3x3 for special occasions). The footprint on this boat is 2x9.5, so I'd probably use a 3x12 configuration (two 3x6 tiles). It'd be easy enough to trim that down to 3x10.5 if you wanted to even it out. What's hanging me up about water tiles is the tile-ability of waves and different water colors. I want to be able to transition pretty smoothly from beach to deeper water and I'm not sure how to do that except as a "grand plan" image cut into individual tiles, which wouldn't be very modular. If you guys have any ideas about this, I'd love to hear them! #16 is a row of overhead cabinets. It also has a modeling function of connecting the fore and aft cabin walls. With all of the furnishings, there are only two open squares for minis to stand in the cabin. I'll probably create an optional setup without the counter/spice rack/stove -- using just a row of those overhead cabinets on the port and starboard to hold everything together. That'll give your mans four full squares to stand in. aviphysics: The mast is as securely fitted as I can make it. Tabs along the bottom of the mast are sandwiched between two sheets of card (the upward- and downward-facing halves of the floor piece), and the base of the mast is stabilized by the "box" at its base. Before that mast will come off, you'll have to rip off the box and a big chunk of the deck. This boat doesn't have to sail up to every customer. On a river (which is where I really see this boat doing business), I assume that it would anchor along a busy route and other boats could come to it. In a harbor, it could pull up to a dock and start serving people there.
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 25, 2012 15:25:48 GMT -9
I was thinking the week point is the point where the mast connects to the part supporting to the sail. If it seems to work then great.
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Post by Dave on Jan 25, 2012 15:37:34 GMT -9
Oh, that part is attached just using glue. It works fine, but I'm working on a more secure solution right now.
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Post by Vermin King on Jan 25, 2012 16:50:48 GMT -9
Would you consider a boom for the bottom of the sail?
Right now you have an upper boom, but adding a lower boom would give you another point of contact for the mast, making things more solid.
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Post by Dave on Jan 25, 2012 17:12:03 GMT -9
No plans to add a boom.
To reinforce the join from the mast to the yard, I tried out a little paper "bolt" solution which worked, but was very fiddly. If glue doesn't seem sturdy enough (it is for me) and the bolt is too fiddly (it was almost too fiddly for me) then my best suggestion is using a short piece of round toothpick and running it through the pieces, then gluing them solid. This kit will accommodate all three approaches.
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Post by afet on Jan 25, 2012 20:02:53 GMT -9
aviphysics: The mast is as securely fitted as I can make it. Tabs along the bottom of the mast are sandwiched between two sheets of card (the upward- and downward-facing halves of the floor piece), and the base of the mast is stabilized by the "box" at its base. Before that mast will come off, you'll have to rip off the box and a big chunk of the deck. What Tom ended up doing with the mast of the Medieval Sailing Ship was to have it go through the deck, with tabs that fold up and glue to the underside. Then the base of the mast is wrapped with skirting that has tabs that glue to the top of the deck. It's very solid. Mind you, it assumes a foam core deck, and the mast is hexagonal. But if that solution works here, it could free up precious deck space currently taken up by the box supporting the mast. |
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Post by Dave on Jan 25, 2012 23:04:54 GMT -9
I'm happy with the mast-mounting solution I'm using on this one.
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Post by Dave on Jan 26, 2012 1:39:17 GMT -9
Someone on my Facebook group mentioned that the roof looked too bulky. I hadn't noticed before, but I'm trying a smaller roof and I think it looks better.
I also think I can improve the paper bolt solution for joining the mast to the yard. I think I was using too small a bolt the first time. After drying overnight, it's holding fast though, so it does work! Sturdy as you'd ever need.
I'm going to try a larger bolt -- less fiddly, more grab, hopefully.
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Post by Dave on Jan 26, 2012 4:00:52 GMT -9
Results of tonight's efforts.  I used a larger bolt (the same shape I'm using for the stovepipe) and it was just unfiddly enough to be workable. So there it is -- an all-paper solution to the mast-yard connection, but I'm not recommending this model for anything smaller than 28mm scale. (You probably could go smaller, but at 15mm it's just as well to simply glue the mast and yard to one another, since they'll be so small anyway.) Olaf on my Facebook group thought the roof was too large, and after some consideration I had to agree. So there's a new roof. I also made my first reasonably barrel-shaped barrel to a reasonable scale. As expected, it was a nightmare to assemble. I might include one with this model just to make the bolt seem easy by comparison. Anyway, I think the line-work on this model is complete, not counting the sails (those will be locked in after I start texturing) and some alternate configurations (no kitchen, for example). Any last words before I start setting it up for texturing? |
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Post by Scott Ponting on Oct 10, 2012 22:08:46 GMT -9
The floating kitchen boat looks cute and amazing. In how much time you made it. My kids are too excited to make it |
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Post by hafu999 on Feb 15, 2013 7:33:18 GMT -9
Floating kitchen boat is gorgeous all the working on it good one for the maintain the boat and attractive for the guys..Dude can you paint on it or not?if you do the paint what color do you like for it.
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Post by theauldgrump on Jul 22, 2013 12:50:52 GMT -9
Still looking like an awesome model - it would make a great mobile base of operations in a role playing game. Poling up the river in a three hand boat. Too deep to carry, too shallow to float. Too deep to carry, too shallow to float. If it doesn't lift your spirits, it'll leave you numb. Best cure for the river is a bottle of rum. Best cure for the river is a bottle of rum. From The Boatman's Cure by George Ward. YouTube video with John Roberts That song led to a campaign set in the 1740s, and why I really want this model. *EDIT* Cool, I can insert the video! I have sung this song with about thirty people... with a nice range of voices it can make a room ring.  The Auld Grump |
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Post by WackyAnne on Sept 26, 2013 16:14:06 GMT -9
afet: It's stable as I think it can be. If you touch it rocks a tiny bit from side to side for a second and then it's settled. I'm surprised it lays as flat as it does. As it is, it could be mounted onto a foamcore tile with no problem. I have to put some thought into water tiles eventually. I'm going to start using these standard tile sizes (all in inches): 6x6, 6x9, 3x6, 3x9 (and 3x3 for special occasions). The footprint on this boat is 2x9.5, so I'd probably use a 3x12 configuration (two 3x6 tiles). It'd be easy enough to trim that down to 3x10.5 if you wanted to even it out. What's hanging me up about water tiles is the tile-ability of waves and different water colors. I want to be able to transition pretty smoothly from beach to deeper water and I'm not sure how to do that except as a "grand plan" image cut into individual tiles, which wouldn't be very modular. If you guys have any ideas about this, I'd love to hear them! #16 is a row of overhead cabinets. It also has a modeling function of connecting the fore and aft cabin walls. With all of the furnishings, there are only two open squares for minis to stand in the cabin. I'll probably create an optional setup without the counter/spice rack/stove -- using just a row of those overhead cabinets on the port and starboard to hold everything together. That'll give your mans four full squares to stand in. aviphysics: The mast is as securely fitted as I can make it. Tabs along the bottom of the mast are sandwiched between two sheets of card (the upward- and downward-facing halves of the floor piece), and the base of the mast is stabilized by the "box" at its base. Before that mast will come off, you'll have to rip off the box and a big chunk of the deck. This boat doesn't have to sail up to every customer. On a river (which is where I really see this boat doing business), I assume that it would anchor along a busy route and other boats could come to it. In a harbor, it could pull up to a dock and start serving people there. I am using my avatar's necromantic side-line to resurrect this thread, in part because of your pop-up sale today, and well, because I meant to when I first ran across it in July, and because I thinkthat you may (?) be done with ground tiles for the moment. I do hope you finish this model; I think it would be a lot of fun. I could add it to my mini sampan fleet... which may be joined by a junk if old squirmydad has time to get back to his own stuff before Xmas  I've an idea on how best you could tackle the sea tiles, alternating set depth tiles with transition tiles, like so: beach tile beach/surf transition tile surf tile surf/shallow shallow shallow/medium medium medium/deep deep (You could collapse the diversity if you like  ). As the sea principally moves in a shoreward and back fashion, the symmetry would be important only for the edges perpendicular to the shoreline (A*A*), although for the set depth tiles you may want to have symmetry/match-up-ability along the edges in an ABAB fashion instead. I hope I'm making sense... Anyway, look forward to seeing this released! |
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Post by aaron on Sept 27, 2013 6:42:47 GMT -9
I think the more pressing question is how is Charlie? and how does he feel about the kitchen? In fact if you look at the interior ... anywhere on the ship for that matter, there is no dog bowl to be found .... Charlie is displeased.
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). As the sea principally moves in a shoreward and back fashion, the symmetry would be important only for the edges perpendicular to the shoreline (A*A*), although for the set depth tiles you may want to have symmetry/match-up-ability along the edges in an ABAB fashion instead. I hope I'm making sense...
