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Post by Rhannon on Jun 8, 2012 1:17:41 GMT -9
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 8, 2012 10:37:17 GMT -9
WOW! What a great post! ;D I have seen many things here that I like, but the prices might just make it unreasonable. But that is ALL great information! Thanks, Rhannon (And, NO, I wasn't the person that asked about it) It DOES make since, though. You can easily store squads of figures in those 9 count baseball card sheets, and throw these in a box. Th only problem I can see is with mine, I tend to shape the bodies to give them a 2.5D look, and that wouldn't work for this... Hmmm... still makes you think! If I had those LIKTO ones at the bottom, then those would be perfect for Finger and Toe's new sets.
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 8, 2012 11:04:12 GMT -9
I ordered some of these... Thanks, Rhannon... I am curious to see how long they will get here. I used the US supplier, so I wouldn't get KILLED in shipping. The shipping was about 50% of the cost, but I am getting 50 of these clear bases for $15.00 (USD). That is quite a bit higher than the price of GW bases, but they are able to be swapped out. Plus what I am saving in figures ALONE more than makes up for it. There was one of these sites the had a minimum order amount of $150.00 (USD). I think if I could afford $150 (+shipping) then I wouldn't be playing with paper miniatures. I guess I could see if 15 people wanted to go in on these with me... I will let you know how this all turns out.
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Post by Rhannon on Jun 8, 2012 12:12:23 GMT -9
I don't remember who asked for them. But I remember that in another topic, different from the request, someone posted a picture and and another person asked which bases they were. The answer: they are bases (perhaps prototype) from Jim's Lab. Now I can't find neither of the two posts/topics. imho Jim could create the perfect base.
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Post by Rhannon on Jun 9, 2012 0:08:50 GMT -9
I ordered some of these... Thanks, Rhannon... ... Not at all. ;D Which of them have you bought? Over the years paper figures have evolved ( the last great change thanks to Jim Hartman. for more than only one reason ) but stand-up bases are the same for several years. I prefer clear bases (principally FFG). But the model is the same. the eighties old model. So I still think that the first specific product, after years, are the LITKO stands. Imho ( but this is not a criticism ) they are not perfect but it is a good start. Model should be cheaper ( because this price is not competitive when you consider big quantities. This works fine for rpg and boargame figures. But for a wargame, where you need dozens of figures ... ) The two upper parts ( those transparent/clear "stand uppers" ) limit figure's appeal, imho. As you say they are good for stand-up figures, but not for paper miniatures ( btw Finger and Toe's new sets aren't only stand-up figures. They are properly paper minis ) ... With a bit larger edge. So, imho, or these stand uppers are made in a thinner and cutable transparent material or we can do without them. For a good protection (which also hardens minis ) there's always the good old Shadowolf's school. " ... A recent method I have started using is to cut out the figures as normal and run batches of them through a laminator. These are cut out leaving an edge around the miniature. This provides a water proof, indestructible layer around the printed miniature. This also makes it really easy to slot into the foam card many times and just store the miniatures flat in envelopes. ... "Unfortunately on his old site there is no longer the picture of his charging swedish dragoons. But I remember that it was visually good. But at least this LITKO product is a proposal for something new ( after years ). I hope that soon, someone offers a real paper miniatures' plastic base. This, in my opinion, should have some particular features. It has a thin slot for the miniature's inserting ( a slot with some "teeth", to keep firm and upright the figure ). To be composed of two parts. The upper one is transparent ( so one can insert, between the two parts, a colore paper base. Or something like that ). Obviously the final part of the paper mini must fit completely inside the base ( not like the actual stand-up bases ) This final part: In any case this base must be reusable ( for other miniatures. Also leaving the same texturized paper base inserted ). Last, as already said, the transparent stand uppers. Only if they are thin and can be cut following the miniature's edges. These are just personal views. The real issue is what should be wide the slot. ( If the paper's thickness varies and if then you laminate your mini, there may be problems ). UPDATE: something like this. This is the base for "Sedition Wars: Battle for Alabaster" miniatures ( a kickstarer project ) But if the upper part ( the actual black part ) is clear in the middle you can insert the paper colored base, and the total thickness of the base holds the paper miniature.
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 9, 2012 5:26:11 GMT -9
I have a few hundred figures already based. My plan is for "new" ones to try this method for ERA OF WAR. I was thinking just having the 50 clear bases (25 per army *should* be enough). My squads run in 5's, and 3's, and solos. These should be enough. I ordered the RolcoGames clear bases because they are here in the US. They are square (I prefer round) and they are 32mm instead of 25mm. I like the ones that fit on 1" squares on maps, instead of hanging over. Then again, I figure I can try to put the actual figures and the card with their stats directly in the same baseball card protector. I am thinking that with a 3 ring notebook I can keep ALL of my figures in one place. The bases can go into a small box, like my dice. I have enough storage issues with my buildings. terrain and vehicles... I feel that by making my figures more "storable" makes perfect sense. Another good idea with this is my dungeon crawl games. I can place maps and figures into ONE notebook. Place it on the shelf, and there you have it... a WHOLE game systen in the space of one notebook. (just a small box for bases and dice. I think I will continue using large bases for my larger figures. Sorry if this is side-tracking the thread... it kind of isn't because it is tied into how I plan to use these. Hope it helps, David
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Post by wonderboy on Jun 9, 2012 9:09:52 GMT -9
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Post by Rhannon on Jun 9, 2012 10:58:22 GMT -9
Thank very much for reply, wonderboy. Three years ago, I missed this topic (so thanks for the link too ) and I didn't know that finally there are specific paper miniatures' bases. Transparent bases are perfect for me. I will try to contact Jim Hartman or LITKO. Thanks. But, if you wish and unhurried, can you tell me something about your bases, please? Material, base height, the slot's width ... If minis are straight, If you are satisfied ... Thanks
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Post by glennwilliams on Jun 9, 2012 11:15:42 GMT -9
Let me offer some observations from the perspective of a scenery designer. The pedestal style slotta bases throw off scaling for doors, wall, barricades, and battlements because they raise the figure a considerable (scale) distance off the ground. If you design doors, walls, and windows to scale, they don't look right with pedestal style bases.
That's why I like flat card stock bases. A few months back someone posted pics of OneMonk figures with the bottom tab sliced off. The figure was glued to a flat base and looked great.
Should the mini fit entirely on the base? What's the purpose of the base? Mostly it's stability (I like a place for information such as org or critical stats, but that's me). A prone sniper would require a special base, but if you think of stability, he or she doesn't need a large base--use one of the standard bases and let him slop over a bit. Doesn't bother me at all.
So, for me, a standard sized flat base is all you really need--and finally those doors and windows look right!
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Post by wonderboy on Jun 9, 2012 13:28:27 GMT -9
Rhannon,
These bases are 25mm with a slightly curved 20mm X 1mm slot. They are made out of transparent bronze acrylic. The only issue I have run into is that sometimes the mini is loose in the slot.
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 9, 2012 15:11:05 GMT -9
About 4 or 5 months ago, I started "flat-basing" my figures. That is one reason I chost the ones I did... they appear to be very flat. I love the look of the flat bases. (Eventhough it is a poor pictue quality, you can still get the idea). Attachments:
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Post by nikloveland on Jun 11, 2012 6:53:24 GMT -9
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 11, 2012 10:17:22 GMT -9
WOW!
I just got these bases! I ordered them on Friday afternoon (around 4:00), and they came in today's mail delivery.
Surem they only came to Ohio from Indiana, which isn't very far, but that is great turn around! 2-day shipping.
What is the term, "WOOT!"
Ok. I will have to try these puppies out.
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Post by emergencyoverride on Jun 12, 2012 15:13:19 GMT -9
I love mine. I ordered several hundred octagonal in the clear acrylic and in the different millimeter sizes from Jim. They're awesome, and by using the clear acrylic, whatever terrain I'm using shows right through, so I don't have to rebase the figures because of the ground I'm playing on. ;D
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2012 20:16:02 GMT -9
Well, there are (as usual) cons and pros... acrylic are functional / flexible but... to shiny and do not forget REFLEXES... which in some cases works as unneeded "bonus" effect
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Post by Rhannon on Jun 13, 2012 7:47:33 GMT -9
I love mine. I ordered several hundred octagonal in the clear acrylic and in the different millimeter sizes from Jim. They're awesome, and by using the clear acrylic, whatever terrain I'm using shows right through, so I don't have to rebase the figures because of the ground I'm playing on. ;D Indeed. Your ( good ) photos in the old topic ( 2009 ), that "wonderboy" has kindly linked above, have convinced me completely. Favorably. They are what I need. But now, before I ask to Jim ( or to LITKO, if Jim can't ), I need, if you can, further information and advice. Why octagonal? ( and not round or square ) What size are they? ( good for all minis or change size is better? ) I really like clear acrylic ( I suppose that my major bunch will be so ) but they are so but there are so many color options ... ( a specific color for the Jim's terran army, or for fantasy elves ... as example ) and some different acrylic ( transparent, translucent, fluorescent??? solid/opaque ) Have you also the gray ones? No one has the clear bronze suggested by Jim? And amber ( fluorescent ) ... Do you think it is a too strong color? What is long and wide for paper figure slot? The slot's curvature ( mentioned by Jim ) of what it should be? one mm. wide might be enough if I use double photo paper and then I laminating it? How many questions. Too many. I'm sorry. But even an answer would help me a lot.
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Post by kiladecus on Jun 13, 2012 11:38:36 GMT -9
I think the shape of the base come down to personal preference.
I prefer the ROUND bases, but the company I ordered these from only have square. I also prefer the 25" ones, because I use 1" square game maps for my dungeon adventures. I haven't play-tested these yet, but this may cause a problem.
I uses bases that represent the figures close combat range. (This is why I have single figures on 50mm round bases, or on calvary (25mmx50mm) if they are carrying spears or polearms. I hate measuring for close combat... it is silly to me).
That is my thoughts. I never saw much of an advantage to octagonal bases. Hexagons are another matter altogether. Years of playing (Classic) Battletech has taught me the importance of firing arcs!
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Post by kadmon on Apr 10, 2020 1:09:26 GMT -9
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