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Post by aleks73 on Jul 19, 2012 5:46:13 GMT -9
Some pics of Topo solitario models... nice to build! (need some edging... I hate edging, I always slip on printed side!)
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Post by old squirmydad on Jul 19, 2012 5:55:03 GMT -9
(need some edging... I hate edging, I always slip on printed side!) Me too, so I hold a piece of paper next to the line to edge to work as a "splashguard". MelEbbles recommends using sticky notes or this purpose as then you can attach to a model that is already built to do your edging. Super builds.
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Post by oldschooldm on Jul 19, 2012 6:44:51 GMT -9
I edge before assembly - it's the only thing that my fat fingers can do.
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Post by glennwilliams on Jul 19, 2012 7:09:54 GMT -9
I, too, confess to hating edging. Too many of my models look like they have black cracks along the sides--OK for ruins, not so OK for a tank. I didn't remember Mel's post-it note idea--will try.
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Post by Vermin King on Jul 19, 2012 7:43:00 GMT -9
I've never done the Samsara, but lots of the cicadas. I think he calls them Chicharras if I remember right. If you haven't got it, email him and ask if you could have his Christmas version. It has helicopter skids instead of legs. I generally build these with the skids as they are sturdier.
Nice collection
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Post by aleks73 on Jul 19, 2012 21:13:45 GMT -9
taken from Genet Model Forums, right from Chris/Mel "
This is a compilation of tips applicable to all paper models.
Sequencing
1. Score, crease, or perforate all mountain fold lines first.
2. Do valley folds lines next. Those need to be scored from the other side.
3. Cut the part out.
4. Pre-fold the part. Edge the part with a brush tipped marker as you do this. (see later for edging tips)
5. Glue things together.
If you follow this sequence, you won't see naked white edges on the model. Glue has a tendency to repel marker inks, so edging before you glue anything together counteracts that.
Edging
1. The best visual results come from matching color or contrast. Avoid pure black. If you can't match color, fall back to a warm or cool gray with a similar contrast.
2. Avoid markers that bleed. The best markers I've found are brush tipped ones such as those made by Tombow.
The areas you want to hit are the perimeter of cut parts, along each fold line (fold over onto itself completely and then run the brush tip down the line), 1-2mm along the glue tabs, and a 1-2mm border on the unprinted side of the part. If you do this, you won't see any naked white edges.
If you find your edging marker slipping frequently, invest in a stack of Post-It notes. Peel off a note sheet, align the sticky edge along the fold line you want to color, then swipe the marker along the edge. Any marker slips will end up on the Post-It note rather than the model.
Valley Folds
To properly score a valley fold without any assistance from glue tabs, you need a pin, thumb tack, or a needle.
1. Align your ruler along the valley fold.
2. Pop one hole through the sheet before the fold line begins and one hole after the fold line ends.
3. Flip the sheet over, find the holes, then align your ruler along these holes. Score. Done! "
@vermin Sure I try to ask Topo for the Christmas Version. The legs are nice put tend to bend to easlily.
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Post by algoesnext on Jul 22, 2012 9:48:11 GMT -9
For edging you could also try pastel sticks, they cone in a variety of colours but can be messy on the fingers. This may cause smudging on the model, I found that smudging didn't really show up much on the Ebbles trucks that I made and possibly gave an enhanced weathered look to the vehicle.
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Post by afet on Jul 27, 2012 4:37:42 GMT -9
For edging, I use Prismacolor art markers. They have a chisel tip on one end and a fine tip on the other. Most importantly, they come in various saturations. I use 50% warm gray for most models. They are more expensive than cheap black markers, but the results are infinitely better. In North America you can get them at Michaels. If you go to the Michaels website, you can print off a 40% off coupon. If you sign up for Michaels updates, you can often get coupons to save 60% or more, which makes the Prismacolors relatively cheap.
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