|
Post by silentsquirrel on Dec 13, 2008 3:24:36 GMT -9
I had been using a chisel-tipped black Sharpie to do all my figure edging but was finding it to be too slow going. The other day I was at Wal-Mart and picked up a two-pack of Mainstays (their house brand) permanent black markers for a whopping $.84 just to see how they worked. And they work awesome. The ink is quite fluid and easily and quickly soaks into the cardstock via the soft felt tip. I found this product to be quite superior to the more expensive Sharpies and a whole lot cheaper.
|
|
|
Post by onemonkeybeau on Dec 13, 2008 6:42:37 GMT -9
I wholeheartedly agree! They are quite awesome and cheap... I have found that they don't last as long but that doesn't matter because of how cheap they are.
onemonkeybeau
|
|
|
Post by squirmydad on Dec 13, 2008 12:17:16 GMT -9
I use brush tipped markers. I find I like the long flexible tip to make it much easier to get into the hard to reach inside corners. The tips do tend to frazzle after about two pages of figures though, but it's still cheaper than metal figures. JIM
|
|
|
Post by old squirmydad on Dec 14, 2008 10:43:14 GMT -9
I'm a fan of Faber Castell's chisel-tipped calligraphy markers myself. I use the brown one for my edging as the black looked too hi-contrasty for me. They're $2 each but I get a lot of mileage out of them.
|
|
|
Post by Aestelon on Mar 23, 2009 17:54:26 GMT -9
I'm finding the easiest way for me is to use a No.1 brush and black India ink. Does the job a treat.
|
|
|
Post by abaddonwormwood on Mar 25, 2009 19:58:00 GMT -9
I have been thinking this might be a way to go also. Plus with cardstock buildings it's easier to match inks than good pens that don't bleed & still flow nicely.
Lord Abaddon of Wormwood
|
|
|
Post by Aestelon on Mar 26, 2009 2:28:26 GMT -9
Totally. Also, I find a brush is a lot easier to manipulate into the small crevices that almost all figs will have on somewhere. I quickly realised on my first test unit that there were corners that my marker just wasn't getting to. For a while I used a cheap black craft acrylic (that I'd barely found anything else I could use it on, so this seemed a perfect opportunity), but then realised I'd got a bottle of black ink that would blend better, so I switched up to that. It's working a treat.
As an addendum, I use the No.1 brush for the bulk of the edging, but then switch to a finer brush (a 10/0) just to get into the deeper cracks and carefully touch up any white where parts are a little misaligned.
|
|
|
Post by Floyd on Mar 26, 2009 5:29:39 GMT -9
I have a set of the dual tipped Prismacolor markers. 6 different shades of grey. The whole color spectrum of Sharpie's new line. And the rainbow set of brush markers like Jim mentioned above. The Prismacolors are more expensive but last a lonnnnnnnnnnnnnng time. The Sharpie brand is great but bleed excessively when new and don't have the most convenient tips. Though the bleeding helps get into the nooks and crannies of a tight cut. Putting the tip of the marker on the corner and the ink will spread fairly evenly in both directions. The brush tipped markers fit into any corners (much like using a real brush) but fray quickly. Same with the chisel tipped Calligraphy markers I've tried. They also tend not to distribute ink evenly only the chisel surface, causing me to have to repeat the edge line. I have used a paint brush and pot of ink but found the markers more convenient for the same result.
Also some black markers dry glossy and with a warmish (almost reddish hue when light hits it). I do not like these. By far my preference is the slightly cool 80% grey Prisma color maker that dries flat. Plus it has both a wide and narrow point.
Something new I've added is a Ball Point rolling marker pen with a medium ball point. It has been working fairly well. About the same amount of coverage as a marker tip...but much more durable.
~F
|
|
|
Post by Slick on May 13, 2009 4:37:06 GMT -9
I was over on zealot.com yesterday and was following Jan's new sulaco build (1.3m long YAY I hope he gets it done). Anyways I was looking through his build photos and discovered he used watercolors for his edging. I laughed at first then I realized you can NEVER EVER see any of his fold and join lines on his models. I just though this was a cool method. Great for 3d stuff but I would stick to markers for my flats. I'm gona get some kids water colors later today and see what I can make my pulse rifle test look like.
|
|