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Post by Vermin King on Sept 4, 2014 15:43:09 GMT -9
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Post by wildagreenbough on Sept 4, 2014 21:23:29 GMT -9
They're certainly interesting pieces. I wonder about printing them out and hand colouring them before scanning them back into a printable format.
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Post by aaron on Sept 5, 2014 2:39:26 GMT -9
their actually surprisingly simple and adding texture and color would only take a few minutes in Photoshop. though I would have to make things a bit more complex as they are flat and single sided.
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 5, 2014 3:34:36 GMT -9
I can see the pictures, but I can't find the downloads. Can somebody help me out?
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 5, 2014 4:01:37 GMT -9
Under the picture is a link to take you to that papercraft's page. On that page, click on the first link under the picture to get the pdf
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 5, 2014 4:34:32 GMT -9
Thanks @vermin King for the link and for being more useful than Google Translate!
For the bugs and the soldiers it is the link on the second page below the second picture (the picture with the coin for scale) I think the soldier might be a good base for a more realistic model. Of course, I've been thinking about that for years :/
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Post by Parduz on Sept 5, 2014 4:57:04 GMT -9
If you use firefox (i dont know if it exists for other browsers) install the "DownThemAll" plugins. When you're on a page, click on his toolbar button and you'll get all the links listed (and perhaps already selected, depending on the filters you set). No more digging a russian/korean/japanese page seeking fo links  |
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Post by hackbarth on Sept 5, 2014 5:22:43 GMT -9
The most interesting feature of these models is that they are made in one piece only. Just as Origami which doesn't allow for cuts and glue, they made the limitation of only cutting the shape and folding it a form of art.
It's a shame they don't have textures. I'm curious to see how well they mesh with Chris Roe Mel Ebbles Alien bugs, that have a small number of simple textured pieces forming a very interesting insect shape. Conversely these insects have one very complex piece to achieve the same end.
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 5, 2014 5:44:05 GMT -9
I had been seeing these guys on various blogs for the past week, and when I saw them yesterday, I just felt like I needed to check them out further. When I actually print one of them out, I will follow the 'forming' diagram, which will give me a better feel for them. Needless to say, I was very disappointed to find that they aren't textured. But this site is a 'Paper Art Club' which means they are more of an origami mentality. There are some 'modelers' out there that only build 'white builds'. I think it is just another flavor of the craft that appeals to a portion of the modelers.
That's why I'm picking up some construction paper on my next Walmart run. I think this has a lot of potential. Of course it does ... just look at Eddnic's figures
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 5, 2014 5:44:16 GMT -9
Sorry about that, for some reason it posted double
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 5, 2014 5:49:29 GMT -9
Here is a bug (well, demonic bug like thing) that I did a few years ago. It is only one piece but less complex than these Japanese ones.  bebilith by cowboyleland, on Flickr |
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Post by aaron on Sept 5, 2014 10:31:30 GMT -9
ok here's the dragon with texture but the bottom will be white unless you print two and glue them together ?? that would make it kind of awkward to fold... also I didn't get permission to do this so I may be stepping on some toes here.... which means that I will take it down post haste if the owner or anyone askes me to take it down LOL  |
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 5, 2014 10:38:55 GMT -9
I usually 'mirror print' on the back of paper models where significant amounts of white will show.
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 5, 2014 15:33:51 GMT -9
The (google translate) instructions talk about using "craft paper" and wetting it slightly to get it to curve. I don't think two layers of normal paper would be too thick. "mirror print" sounds like a good option if you want to use card.
It is an interesting coincidence that this surfaces here at the same time as the Decks kickstarter is happening. Could be a 2.5d revolution!
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Post by aaron on Sept 5, 2014 15:56:31 GMT -9
i'm actually building the dragon right now, it's really fiddely in the beginning like wrangling an Octopus but as time goes on it gets easier and easier I'll post pics as soon as it's done.
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Post by aaron on Sept 5, 2014 18:25:39 GMT -9
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 5, 2014 19:17:48 GMT -9
He looks very good indeed. Did you do this on regular paper or cardstock? My impression from the website was that if you do your creases well enough you won't need glue. I'm probably going to use Krazy Glue on mine, and brush some in the interior to give it extra strength.
I am not surprised that it is no longer yours.
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Post by wildagreenbough on Sept 5, 2014 20:20:20 GMT -9
He looks very good indeed. Did you do this on regular paper or cardstock? My impression from the website was that if you do your creases well enough you won't need glue. I'm probably going to use Krazy Glue on mine, and brush some in the interior to give it extra strength. I am not surprised that it is no longer yours. That is one really nice dragon, - I think I'd be keen to lay claim to it too if I thought I'd get away with it  |
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Post by Parduz on Sept 5, 2014 23:41:48 GMT -9
The (google translate) instructions talk about using "craft paper" and wetting it slightly to get it to curve. ....which could be the reason behind having them not textured. Unless you make it print by professional or on-line photo printing service there's no way to wet printed paper without melting the inks of home printers. |
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 6, 2014 4:04:52 GMT -9
Steaming the underside will work on printed work. I paper modeling, like aircraft and figures in particular, to get the paper to behave better for curved surfaces, you can slightly dampen the interior surface with this process:
1. Take a sip of coffee (and swallow)
2. Slowly blow over the non-printed surface
3. Shape the part by doing most of the handling on the dampened side
I have also heard that in order to burnish seams and tightly curved surfaces, a small amount of spit can help (a process that I have yet to use)
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 6, 2014 4:48:56 GMT -9
That is a trick I will try to remember. Thanks @vermin King.
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Post by aaron on Sept 6, 2014 6:23:38 GMT -9
I have used it and it works... but the funny thing is different paper has a different taste some of them are really yucki and full of chem some have a nice pecan after dinner smoothness to them ... LOL but it's true some paper tastes better than others LOL weird I know!!
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Post by aaron on Sept 6, 2014 7:25:52 GMT -9
ok so I thought I would conduct a little experiment and see if I could make an under belly for this dragon and reverseies on the wings... if this works then I will probably work on the other side of the legs. then if I like it I might start incorporate the design elements into the splinterwood stuff... maybe ....  |
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 6, 2014 17:52:25 GMT -9
I think you should definitely consider it. Folding and curling is a great way to add interest to a model without adding too much complexity, and 2.5d builds get you just about all the impact of a 3d build with about a quarter of the effort!
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Post by aaron on Sept 6, 2014 18:55:55 GMT -9
I still havent seen anything that would get me to give up my 2d troops , but for larger things like monstrous creatures and large vehicles maybe even some buildings I can see this working well... also I have the next gen dragon printed but due to a landscape vers standard paper error and my being to cheep to throw anything away LOL I am trying to make this dragon anyway even though it's about half the size of a pencil .... it's really hard.. but if you were to make 28 mm troops like this they would be even harder... and then things like the goblins and the Ickthus and Dwarves which at 28mm are closer to 15mm it becomes almost impossible without specialty tools, a huge magnifying glass and a bucket of patients
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Post by wildagreenbough on Sept 6, 2014 21:01:50 GMT -9
I've got a project underway that needs big insects so I'm very interested in this kind of 2.5D paper modelling. I'm not entirely sold on 2.5D for smaller sized biped figures, but it seems to be fine for larger minis.
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Post by aaron on Sept 7, 2014 6:13:49 GMT -9
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 7, 2014 6:35:41 GMT -9
Congrats on finishing this tiny build aaron. And I think you and wildagreenbough are right about 28mm bipeds. When I was thinking of going commercial with 2.5d figures I quickly realised that D&D "Large" and bigger would be my best bet. Even then, the "large" models would have fewer details that "colossal" etc. I kept getting distracted doing PC figs for my group (and by actual life responsibilities)so I never got me texturing skills up to snuff, but I still think it is the way to go. I wish Decks Miniatures well, but I think paper has some advantages over plastic for these figures, but I can see pre-cut really appealing to some and I think it would greatly cut down on piracy compared to selling pdfs. Oh, back on topic: something I will try soon is building a lizard and only gluing the legs together so that the belly can bulge out as well as the back being rounded. This also gives the possibility of an upper and lower jaw so you can have an open mouth. I'm sure I'm overlooking something, but I'll find out when I try. Kudos again for completing this tiny guy. |
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 10, 2021 5:53:37 GMT -9
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