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Post by inkhorn on Feb 24, 2016 10:10:38 GMT -9
I am noob, and I going over Dave Graffam's Paper Modelling Guide and trying it out on the Coach House. It says that Rubber cement is not recommended. I was shocked to see this as I have had great success with it when gluing paper to paper. I have never used it to make paper models. Is there a property of it that does not work well with paper modeling? Is everyone else using other glues? I did see someone mention wood glue. I apologize if this has already been discussed ad nauseum.
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Post by mproteau (Paper Realms) on Feb 24, 2016 10:20:18 GMT -9
It has been discussed before, but it's kind of hard to search for things on forums sometimes, especially with such common terms as "glue". I personally use cheap white glue on tabs and small pieces, but use Super77 spray glue for large flat areas because it doesn't warp. The white glue has a lot of water in it - you have to be really good at spreading it THINLY. I did a search for the phrase "rubber cement" and see several folks like working with it. Here's a good topic to read: cardboard-warriors.proboards.com/thread/4755/starting-dislike-glue
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Post by bravesirkevin on Feb 24, 2016 10:40:24 GMT -9
I use rubber cement and contact adhesive almost all the time. Spray glue is basically rubber cement in an aerosol can. I favour it because it bonds really strongly and stays stuck for over a decade while other glues seem to break down within a year or two leaving your model in pieces, and also because being alcohol-based (rather than water-based like wood glues and other PVAs) it does not warp the paper at all.
The down sides to rubber cement: • The solvents in it can eat foamcore and dissolve laser printer toner • It's tricky and messy to work with, so you need to find a way to apply the glue with a disposable brush rather than pouring straight from the tube. I use the offcuts from my printed pages for this. • It's toxic, and the fumes will get you a little high if you're not in a well ventilated workspace. • The dried rubber surface doesn't accept ink from a marker, so you have to do all your edging before assembling the model.
All of the above make it a nightmare for a novice, but anyone with experience will find those downsides very easy to work around and, in my opinion, rubber cement and contact adhesives are really the best tools for the job 99 times out of 100.
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Post by Vermin King on Feb 24, 2016 11:04:12 GMT -9
These are the glues that I use. Tacky Glue is a lower-water-content white glue. I use that for at least 80% of what I do, applied with the end of a toothpick. I usually use the glue stick for figures I need quickly. The No-Wrinkle glue is used for fold-over flat pieces, generally something that needs to be pressed flat for a short time. The Restickable glue stick is something I've been using when I do a build and then have to scan the parts again. It holds, but also comes back apart. At the bottom is a really horrible glue that was given to me. It is used for large surfaces that can be left under weights to dry for at least 18 hours. I use old phone books to weight things down. They have a little 'give' to them, but they also aren't ruined if some of the glue oozes out or from the dampness. I usually use phone books for my 'pad' when scoring.
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Post by inkhorn on Feb 24, 2016 15:47:26 GMT -9
Thanks! That is too cool.
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Post by hackbarth on Feb 26, 2016 4:36:39 GMT -9
I use PVA glue for large surfaces, like gluing textures printed on paper to cereal box cardboard, to make buildings and large props. To prevent warping i apply it with a painter roll.
To reinforce corners inside buildings, I use hot-melt glue, the kind you apply with a hot glue pistol.
For character miniatures I use two faced adhesive tape.
For small tabs, and for gluing the figures to the bases, I use cianoacrilate glue.
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Post by inkhorn on Feb 26, 2016 7:27:46 GMT -9
You use cereal box cardboard? Interesting. Are you gluing printer paper to the cardboard? Do you find the dark color of the box cardboard shades the coloring through the paper?
When I made battle mats, before I discovered 110 lbs cardstock, I would use manila folders from my office. In this age, there are lots of them getting recycled that nobody ever uses. You just have to work around the fold, any creases the put in them, and any advertisement markings. I thought it worked well, but I did feel the manila coloring came through and made the lighter colors look a little dingy.
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Post by hackbarth on Feb 26, 2016 8:03:25 GMT -9
I hardly notice the color of the cardboard through the printer paper, but here I have cereal which uses dark cardboard and cereal that uses light, even white cardboard, and use the dark ones with dark textures, like rooftops and dark grey rock facades, and the lighter ones for more light textures. My real problem is with embossed patterns that some cereal brands put on their logos. Here is an example of a cereal box build from the inside: You can almos see where I used hot glue to reinforce the cockpit, above the two magnets in the center. The magnets where glued with cianoacrilate.
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