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Post by Vermin King on Sept 20, 2016 16:23:25 GMT -9
Yes, it is in between. Think of a slight metallic sheen vs. the eight-coat Porsche paint job that if you shown a laser light at the proper angle, it would reflect it to the moon.
Except for cars, I generally don't use Gloss. If you only get one can, go with Satin
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Post by chiefasaur on Sept 20, 2016 16:45:26 GMT -9
Y'know, I've never used sealents on my minis before, and this thread is making me feel super self conscious that I don't
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 20, 2016 17:14:43 GMT -9
They have their advantages, but it kind of goes against the primary advantage of paper ... if you mess up or it gets damaged, you can print another.
I would recommend everyone try it, and if it works, keep doing it. If it doesn't, don't
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Post by nolabert on Sept 20, 2016 17:35:50 GMT -9
Yeah, I'm going to give it a try--see what results I get. I doubt I'll do everything I've made, because that's a lot.
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Post by jeffgeorge on Sept 21, 2016 14:35:32 GMT -9
Thanks for the info jeffgeorge . Any chance you could post some pics of the models after the sealants? Vermin King is the Satin finish between Matte and Gloss? I'll have both dungeon tiles and figures ready for photography late tomorrow or Friday. Ran out of daylight to finish the spraying tonight...grrr. @vermin King--I'll have to check out the Satin finish. Thanks for the tip. As to seal vs. not-seal, I was firmly in the don't-seal-they're-easily-replaceable camp, until I did the math on how long I spend trimming each character. I tend to trim very close, with less than half an mm of black outline remaining on man-sized figures. This means lots of tiny little cuts, and probably takes 5-10 minutes per mini--longer for larger or more complex minis. That makes my minis worth a couple of bucks apiece in time even at minimum wage, and much more if you base it on my hourly rate as a web developer, so I came to the conclusion that they were worth protecting from moisture, tears, and finger-grease. I'd rather spend my time cutting out NEW minis, rather than re-doing old ones. Edit 9/22: I posted a pic of my minis and tiles a little while ago. Everything is sealed with three light coats of Krylon UV-Resistant Gloss, though I'm not sure how well that comes through in this pic. Trust me when I tell you that sealing/coating them really makes the color and detail pop.
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Post by nolabert on Sept 25, 2016 10:32:15 GMT -9
Ok Vermin King I bought a can of Krylon Satin Finish. I don't know how long I'll have to wait to use it though. I live in central WI and we've been pretty humid since mid-July. And once the humidity diminishes we'll be heading into winter. Hopefully I'll find a low humidity day in the near future to give a test. I doubt I'll do everything I've made because I currently have 4 Sterilite containers with paper craft and three small tackle boxes with paper minis.
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Post by Vermin King on Sept 25, 2016 16:55:35 GMT -9
I don't know if I would go back and do built pieces. I usually give them a quick light coat right after printing, let that dry a couple hours, score, and then another light dusting. I don't always give a finished model a coat, and even then it is only on models that were already coated
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Post by Christopher Roe on Sept 25, 2016 17:22:34 GMT -9
The "if it gets damaged, just print another" approach works fine if it's something trivial to build. If it takes me hours to build something, then I want to protect my time investment and make it last as long as possible. So, where possible, I reinforce and seal builds that I want to keep around for a while.
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Post by nolabert on Sept 26, 2016 4:15:09 GMT -9
Vermin King I'll probably only try out the Satin Finish on paper minis. Those would be the ones that I'd be most interested in seeing if it pops the colors out rather than terrain. I'm hesitant to spray after printing before cutting since I cut by hand and I usually leave a little white here and there where I don't cut all the way to the black border (except for bravesirkevin 's minis which has a very generous black border). I then fill in the white with a marker during edging. If I spray before cutting, I'm assuming that will interfere with filling in those white spots with the marker. Would you not spray completed figures because of concern of curling? jeffgeorge said he sprayed after edging and all was good.
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Post by jeffgeorge on Sept 26, 2016 14:14:47 GMT -9
jeffgeorge said he sprayed after edging and all was good. Nolabert, the trick was how to get the tiny paper figures not to be blown off the table by the spray can, and here's the solution: Fun-Tak! I cut hunks of scrap cardboard--corrugated is better than chipboard, just for strength--about 6x10 to serve as carriers for the minis to be sprayed. Then I stuck a bunch of minis to the board, tacking each one down with a ball of Fun-Tak between 1/8" and 1/4" in diameter. You can pack them pretty tightly, as long as they don't touch or overlap--I get anywhere from 18 to 30 minis on a single one of those carrier boards. In fact, the tighter you pack them, the less sealant gets wasted on the cardboard between the minis! When you stick the minis down, be sure that they are raised off the cardboard by the Fun-Tak. Part of its purpose is to keep the minis from getting stuck around the edges to the carrier board. Also, you can set the minis up on the carrier boards ahead of time--I often will load up a few boards of minis after dark on Friday night, so they'll be ready and waiting for spraying first thing Saturday morning. I give each board of minis three light coats of sealant 15-30 minutes apart, let them dry for two hours, then peel them off, flip them over, and spray the other side.
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