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Post by 8rad on Aug 5, 2018 7:55:48 GMT -9
Surprising how many paper mini skills are coming into play developing flats. Even the paper cutter and 3d printer have been enlisted. Essentially the same process, as in literary making paper mini. However thats only phase one, then transfer to plaster blocks and curve out before pouring pewter. Having trouble with getting the plaster blocks and alignment right but printing a frame system to sort that out. Using fimo for quick prototypes. Having a solid mini which is also flat is different to both paper minis and 3d minis, like the best of both worlds. Have learn how to paint minis again
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Post by okumarts on Aug 5, 2018 7:59:19 GMT -9
That looks really cool!
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Post by 8rad on Aug 5, 2018 8:08:07 GMT -9
Cheers Okumarts, experimenting with pewter is a bit scary. Need to use the hob to melt it but only when the Mrs is out. I will be in 10 worlds of pain if caught using her posh cooker . Fimo also allows progress when shes in.
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Post by 8rad on Oct 11, 2018 8:29:22 GMT -9
First metal flats =) from an engraved mould. really its like paper minis just x^10 harder. Had to throw some paint on just to do it.
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Post by marcpasquin on Feb 25, 2020 6:09:28 GMT -9
have you tried casting with non-molten metal instead like resin ? freaks the significant other a whole lot less.
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Post by alloydog on Feb 25, 2020 7:57:58 GMT -9
have you tried casting with non-molten metal instead like resin ? freaks the significant other a whole lot less. Sort of! I once used some two-part epoxy-resin to make a wheel for a model that the part had been lost I first made a mould by pressing an original wheel into Blu Tack. I gave the original part a light coat of cooking oil to prevent it sticking into the Blu Tack and also so that the resin doesn't stick either. I gave it about two days to fully cure. Once cured and removed, you can see there were a few air bubbles in it. They might have even been gas from when the glue dried. I filled the holes with more resin and filed off the lip from the edge that was at the top of the mould. Left: new wheel Original part : Right I wouldn't use two-part epoxy-resin again for anything other than I've lost a critical part!. If I were to make a lot of items, I would use rubber for the mould and proper resin bough from an art shop - it flows better and so is less likely to bubble.
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Post by 8rad on Feb 25, 2020 10:07:03 GMT -9
Try Bluestuff over Bluetack for a mould. Quite cheap and re-usable.
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