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Post by darkhorseproductions on Sept 12, 2014 23:13:05 GMT -9
There seams to be issues with scale concerning paper models. most 28 mm figures vary in sizes some are based on eye level some based on the top of the head. there also seams to be issues with the grids on maps. if the standard 1 inch grid is 5 feet then that scale is 1:60. If the grids where 28 mm then the grids would be 5 feet 4 inches. 28 mm = 1:64. The closest scale that I have found on an architectural ruler is 3/16" = 1'-0". some model makers on here use different scales in order to allow and compensate for different scale figures. Maybe we should standardize the scale size we create in and specify the percentage of print size on the PDF files so the buyer can scale as he requires. This would allow folks to kit bash parts from one set to another without having compatibility issues. I would love to know what you all think.
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Post by wyvern on Sept 13, 2014 3:57:47 GMT -9
Scale size and what exactly "28mm", etc. means has been debated repeatedly on the CWF previously. The problem goes way beyond paper minis and models, of course, because the cast miniatures market has long failed to have a standard definition for what such scale numbers really mean. The 28mm height measure for a standing male figurine, for instance, might be from the sole of the foot to the crown of the head, or simply to the eye level. Or it may be a maximum, or an average height for the male (sometimes all) figures within a range. It started life as 25mm 40-odd years ago, but gradually grew, and it's now often closer to 30mm/32mm in some ranges that are supposedly still 28mm-scale. The problem is similar for "15mm/18mm" scale, and others, primarily because the "mm" usage discourages direct scale ratio comparisons, and each manufacturer is convinced they know best!
There are also issues with how miniatures are portrayed. The metal casting process has long meant it's very difficult to make precisely scaled heads and hands with sufficient detail on them, so these tend to be over-sized in metal ranges, giving at least a slight caricature appearance to the miniatures. Plastic doesn't have the same problems, which is why it's long been a staple product for manufacturing anatomically precise, true-scale, miniatures for model railways, for instance. However, the wargames market having begun with many metal ranges back in the 1970s has meant most cast plastic figurines have followed the old metal "caricature" route to fit in. This has spilled over into the paper miniatures market, hence the mixture of similarly slight caricature ranges as well as more anatomically-correct ones presently available (leaving aside those which are deliberately designed to be more cartoon-like).
In papercraft, where it's possible to adjust the physical size of miniatures and models quite precisely before printing them off, the best solution to the overall miniature height/model scale issue is simply to rescale to suit an individual's preference, if such concerns are a particular problem. Providing the original artwork is of sufficient resolution and clarity, scaling down is usually not a problem, although scaling up (from, say, 10mm to 28mm) can be. Some manufacturers already provide a scale percentage conversion table with their downloadable models - Dave Graffam and Mystic Mountain both do in models I've seen recently, for example, but there are others.
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Post by cowboyleland on Sept 13, 2014 15:39:52 GMT -9
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Post by darkhorseproductions on Sept 13, 2014 19:30:53 GMT -9
TY cowboyleland. I will check out that thread right away.
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Post by flockofthese on Sept 17, 2014 13:25:18 GMT -9
I have made slight scale adjustments when printing before. Obviously that works, but its a hassle, and prevents easily using the standard cutting files. Now I either just deal with it, or only use figures from the same artist in a game.
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