It takes me roughly 20 minutes (that's a wild guess...) to make a page of cutfiles. I do this: 1) Open the PDF in GIMP. I have pre-designed layers that I use for how I prefer my reg marks, so I can know where the safe cutting area is. Move bits around if necessary... Export as PDF (I always export as a Letter sized image) 2) Create a new cutfile in Studio, setting up the regmarks to my preferred values. 3) I drag/drop the image from my Explorer window into Studio, then select it and use the MOVE tool to move it to 0, 0. 4) Using the Draw a Polygon tool, I draw the outline of the top half of the mini. I lay out straight lines pretty quickly. I start on the scoreline, go around the top, and finish on the scoreline. It's not a closed shape! If a shape has negative space to remove, I make those polygons for the top half of the mini. I combine all the polygon lines into a single compound path (select them, then Ctrl+E) I edit that combined path, select all of the points above the base and change them to curves. Fix any lines that don't look right. 5) If there are multiple figures in a row, I do all the top-halves first. 6) I lay down the center line, and set it to perforate. 7) I select all the top-half pieces AND the center line. Ctrl+Down Arrow creates a copy, but moved down. I flip that whole thing vertically, then zoom WAY IN on the center lines, nudging the copy up/down until the center lines overlap. Delete one of the center lines. 8) I select the top and bottom half of one mini. Ctrl+E to combine to a compound path. Edit that path. Combine the unconnected points on the center line to join the top and bottom together. Delete the point that's on the center line. You don't need it. 9) After a row of minis are done, I edit the center line and break it apart so you don't have extra scoring going on between the figures.
Repeat until done.
It sounds complicated, but I've gotten so used to it that it goes very quickly.
Yeah. For buildings, I find the hardest part is getting things to fit within a safe cutting area. I don't like setting the margins to their minimums - I find the machines can sometimes not read them well, especially when you're using homemade carrier sheets from a sheet of cardstock or something.
For a building, I lay down rectangles that line up with the major edges, and often weld multiple rectangles together to get the basic shape done. Then I edit that shape, pulling the points around or deleting them to get what I need. I use polylines to make scorelines, and typically do those last. I personally like to lay down cutlines all at once, select them all and make them some odd color like purple or green. My default color seems to be red, so I like to separate the cut and score line colors so I can select them easily by color. After I lay the cutlines down and set their line settings, I go lay down the score lines. I select them all (again, by color, since the cutlines are now a different color) and adjust their cut settings to be perforations. I personally leave the scoreline line style to be a solid line (not changing it to a dashed line). The cutter will actually perforate along the dashed line, which I've seen do weird things with it's algorithm for "optimal" cutting paths. Whatever you choose though, it's not a big deal.
I always finish by changing the scorelines to a medium blue and the cut lines to red. I zoom to fit the whole file on the screen, make sure nothing is selected, and save that.
That was just me using a lot of words to say roughly what you said in your first post.
If you're planning on sharing the cutfiles, then you have to remember that the time saved in USING the cutfiles is multiplied by the people who may download it, so yeah - there are some simple things that would be faster to just cut by hand instead of making nice cutfiles, but the idea there is that you'll be saving other people some work, too. So, that's part of the payoff - giving a little back to the community with your time spent.
Ah, great. I think there are a few things you mentioned that might help me out a bit, so thanks!
I hear you on helping others out - when I first got my Silhouette I thought it was going to all be a breeze. Maybe someday all the models out there will have great cutfiles on the boards! I am particularly indebted to those like yourself who took the time to create cutfiles, and now I'm trying to give back.
Post by spaceranger42 on Sept 28, 2016 10:11:06 GMT -9
Going through SStudio growing pains myself, this thread has been super helpful, thanks guys! Do you find that you prefer to go from PDF to PNG or PDF to TIFF? I would think that that using a TIFF would give you better quality print and preserve layer transparency, as PNG does.
Never smile too big, the gods may mistake it for hubris.
Post by spaceranger42 on Sept 28, 2016 11:15:38 GMT -9
Cool beans, I had tried both and you are right, no noticeable difference. Granted I was trying to figure out a printing issue at the time (fault was mechanical not file based, also don't buy generic ink carts for HP printers) I am glad that I bought extra cutting mats for my machine though, gauging the blade depth to cut through laminated card stock may have cut a little deeper than I had intended.
Never smile too big, the gods may mistake it for hubris.
cowboyleland: Now I have seen it. It doesn't advance our hobby, but anyone with half a brain who wanted 2nd rate figures could easily figure this out for themselves so I guess he isn't doing any harm.
Mar 19, 2019 17:53:59 GMT -9
berneart76: well, this is fun, (not) transferring all my papercrafting sets into the cloud. The stuff I got from DriveTrhruRPG was simple with their library desktop app,but my other stuff, sometimes with multiple duplicate copies is entertaining.
Mar 1, 2019 15:44:32 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King I usually use a mix of drybrush/watercolor/photocopy and occasionally posterizing at different levels of opacity.
Feb 26, 2019 20:46:54 GMT -9
berneart76: Vermin King, that's similar to the enhancing that I do on my texturing. I've found that sometimes I need to scale up or scale down the image (usually by 50 or 25 percent down or 200 or 300 percent up) to make get the enhancements to look "right"
Feb 26, 2019 20:44:53 GMT -9
Vermin King: On the zebras, I did multiple enhancements and cartoon filters and used them at 100%, and they still didn't look that different than the photos
Feb 26, 2019 12:27:26 GMT -9
Vermin King: When I make a figure or terrain piece based on a photo, I clean it up and align things to look 'right', then I create another layer and do enhancing and cartoonizing on it. I then adjust opacity over the photo image until it looks good. On the zebras,
Feb 26, 2019 12:26:35 GMT -9
Vermin King: berneart76, do you mean giving them green or purple manes and tails? and a few piercings? maybe a cig hanging out of their mouths?
Feb 26, 2019 12:24:18 GMT -9
Vermin King: cartoonizing a zebra doesn't do much
Feb 20, 2019 5:59:28 GMT -9
Vermin King: And due to the snow, I'm off tonight. I am going to miss the cash on the paycheck, but I'm glad they want their employees to be safe
Feb 15, 2019 10:52:24 GMT -9
ignatious: Actually I was referring to the two previous posts. I was trying to be subtle in order to sublimate the crassness. Read them again, but in Mel Brooks voice while he is winking, and nudging the person to his right.
Feb 9, 2019 13:38:11 GMT -9
Vermin King: Sure. Euphemize us
Feb 8, 2019 18:40:48 GMT -9
ignatious: would anyone care for a euphemism?
Feb 8, 2019 13:40:27 GMT -9
cowboyleland: We hadn't had snow for a few days. Last night the plow came down my street and did nothing but fill every ones driveways back in. Just for practice, I guess.
Feb 8, 2019 7:48:16 GMT -9
Vermin King: In KC we had an ice storm (with thunder sleet) the other night. Left things drivable, but last night the plow came down my street. They took all the rough edges off. Might as well have ran a Zamboni...
Feb 8, 2019 6:42:32 GMT -9
okumarts: Vermin King... Mind Blown!
Feb 5, 2019 19:32:30 GMT -9