How I Store My Paper Armies
Jul 10, 2021 14:39:53 GMT -9
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squirmydad, alloydog, and 2 more like this
Post by adjutantgeneral on Jul 10, 2021 14:39:53 GMT -9
First, as this hobby is somewhat eclectic, even within the already eclectic hobby of wargaming with toy soldiers, a few clarifications.
1. ALL of my pieces are flats. I do not use 3d paper for any purpose. It is NOT that I think 3d paper toys are unattractive, but simply that one of my major reasons for getting into the paper hobby was the relative indestructibility of flats. Take your entire collection tin of paper flats, and throw them off the top of the statue of Liberty, and you'll still have an army of perfectly playable pieces. Provided you can find them. The same cannot be said for any 3d figures I know of, including paper ones.
Second, the very compact nature of flats allows them to be stored in a very small area, which is also defeated by 3d paper.
NO INSULTS INTENDED TO OUR PAPER MODELERS. You guys do glorious stuff, but for wargaming purposes, I just think 2d is the best compromise. To each his own.
To start, I store my armies, each running between about 2000 and 3000 figures, in plastic fisherman's tackle boxes. The ones I use come from the Plano company. I am an American, my brethren from elsewhere will probably have to find an equivalent.
The box is very light but strong. It opens at the top, and contains a large number of small compartments suitable for 25 or 28mm figures. Cavalry, tanks, bug monsters, etc., can be stored in the larger compartments, or in boxes on the lower level.
My terrains is also universally 2d, as (again, a personal preference) I just think 2d terrain goes best with 2d figures. Sometimes I use stand up terrain, sometimes battlemats, and sometimes a combination of both, but these also allow for very compact storage by this method.
The box easily holds an army of about 2000 to 3000, as above, plus dice, bases, rules, terrain (again, standee terrain or battlemats and whatever knickknacks you need). In fact, one of these boxes could pretty easily hold maybe 5,000 figures, but at that point I think it becomes somewhat crowded.
I tend to have different boxes for different periods, and box periods that can commonly be used together in a single box where possible. Thus my heroic fantasy and historical medievals are in the same box. The collection of 19th century African historical and steampunk figures I am now finishing, and the ACW figures I will shortly be starting will also be boxed together, for similar reasons. You never know when Flag officer Farragut might be called on to chase down Captain Nemo, after all.
A few notes on the figures themselves.
I tend to class my figures in one of two ways: characters and troops. The distinction here is very simple, and has nothing to do with their relative quality. Characters are individual figures, though I usually make about 3 of each, as you never know when you might lose one or need a clone or evil twin. Troops make up armies, anything from orcs of the white hand to the 7th Cavalry regiment.
Characters I store in mailing envelopes, which seems to work pretty well.
Troops I store by wrapping about 24 to 30 of them on toilet paper and fitting them into the compartments if ordinary sized infantry, or in larger compartments or interior boxes if needed. I try not to make these too snug, as this can cause them to bend, and it takes them time to regain their original shape.
One last thing. I do not, in fact, make my flats from paper, but from Uline polyester mailing labels, onto which the figures are printed, and then covered with clear contact paper before they are cut. This adds nicely to their indestructibility, by making them virtually impervious to water.
I welcome any questions or suggestions.
1. ALL of my pieces are flats. I do not use 3d paper for any purpose. It is NOT that I think 3d paper toys are unattractive, but simply that one of my major reasons for getting into the paper hobby was the relative indestructibility of flats. Take your entire collection tin of paper flats, and throw them off the top of the statue of Liberty, and you'll still have an army of perfectly playable pieces. Provided you can find them. The same cannot be said for any 3d figures I know of, including paper ones.
Second, the very compact nature of flats allows them to be stored in a very small area, which is also defeated by 3d paper.
NO INSULTS INTENDED TO OUR PAPER MODELERS. You guys do glorious stuff, but for wargaming purposes, I just think 2d is the best compromise. To each his own.
To start, I store my armies, each running between about 2000 and 3000 figures, in plastic fisherman's tackle boxes. The ones I use come from the Plano company. I am an American, my brethren from elsewhere will probably have to find an equivalent.
The box is very light but strong. It opens at the top, and contains a large number of small compartments suitable for 25 or 28mm figures. Cavalry, tanks, bug monsters, etc., can be stored in the larger compartments, or in boxes on the lower level.
My terrains is also universally 2d, as (again, a personal preference) I just think 2d terrain goes best with 2d figures. Sometimes I use stand up terrain, sometimes battlemats, and sometimes a combination of both, but these also allow for very compact storage by this method.
The box easily holds an army of about 2000 to 3000, as above, plus dice, bases, rules, terrain (again, standee terrain or battlemats and whatever knickknacks you need). In fact, one of these boxes could pretty easily hold maybe 5,000 figures, but at that point I think it becomes somewhat crowded.
I tend to have different boxes for different periods, and box periods that can commonly be used together in a single box where possible. Thus my heroic fantasy and historical medievals are in the same box. The collection of 19th century African historical and steampunk figures I am now finishing, and the ACW figures I will shortly be starting will also be boxed together, for similar reasons. You never know when Flag officer Farragut might be called on to chase down Captain Nemo, after all.
A few notes on the figures themselves.
I tend to class my figures in one of two ways: characters and troops. The distinction here is very simple, and has nothing to do with their relative quality. Characters are individual figures, though I usually make about 3 of each, as you never know when you might lose one or need a clone or evil twin. Troops make up armies, anything from orcs of the white hand to the 7th Cavalry regiment.
Characters I store in mailing envelopes, which seems to work pretty well.
Troops I store by wrapping about 24 to 30 of them on toilet paper and fitting them into the compartments if ordinary sized infantry, or in larger compartments or interior boxes if needed. I try not to make these too snug, as this can cause them to bend, and it takes them time to regain their original shape.
One last thing. I do not, in fact, make my flats from paper, but from Uline polyester mailing labels, onto which the figures are printed, and then covered with clear contact paper before they are cut. This adds nicely to their indestructibility, by making them virtually impervious to water.
I welcome any questions or suggestions.