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Post by Dave on May 26, 2010 17:38:04 GMT -9
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Post by Dagger on May 26, 2010 22:03:53 GMT -9
Dang you're fast... didn't you come up with this idea like yesterday?
They look great... not too much detail... they'll look perfect on the gaming table...
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Post by magpiestear on May 27, 2010 0:06:35 GMT -9
Have to agree with Dagger.
Are all the pieces interchangeable?
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Post by Dave on May 27, 2010 5:00:22 GMT -9
Yes, they're interchangeable. Each piece is either a slot-up or slot-down, and you can fit any slot-up piece into any slot-down piece.
There are 10 wall sections total: 5 that slot-up, and 5 that slot-down.
There are 2 long pieces that have 2 slots in them. (One that has 2 slots-up, and one that has 2 slots-down.) By linking those pieces together, you can build infinitely expandable mazes of ruined walls.
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Post by magpiestear on May 27, 2010 9:24:15 GMT -9
That's what I was hoping!! Cool!!!!!
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 29, 2012 9:33:25 GMT -9
I noticed the instructions recommend indoor would glue. Does this dry stiffer then some of the other options?
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Post by Dave on Jan 29, 2012 9:46:39 GMT -9
Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue was my preference until I discovered Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. By comparison, I found indoor wood glue to be too wet. The adhesiveness is about the same.
For double-sided pieces like these walls, I prefer to use a glue stick (from Uhu or some other quality brand, not a cheap 3-for-a-dollar glue stick). Apply glue quickly, flatten severely.
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 29, 2012 13:17:30 GMT -9
Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue was my preference until I discovered Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. By comparison, I found indoor wood glue to be too wet. The adhesiveness is about the same. For double-sided pieces like these walls, I prefer to use a glue stick (from Uhu or some other quality brand, not a cheap 3-for-a-dollar glue stick). Apply glue quickly, flatten severely. I ended up using spray glue for most of them. Set them all up and ready to fold then a quick spray. On two small pieces I had forgotten to spray I spread a thin coat of Aileen's with another piece of cardstock. I then let them dry between two pieces of baking parchment under a pile of books. Seems to work have worked pretty well. Not even sure which ones I did with Aileen's. When I get a chance I will try the UHU glu sticks to see how they work. Still got a set of archway slot ruins to do. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2012 8:10:11 GMT -9
I prefer to use a glue stick (from Uhu or some other quality brand, not a cheap 3-for-a-dollar glue stick). Apply glue quickly, flatten severely. Same for me, except that I'm using Pritt (produced by Henkel). They got several "sizes" (various stick radius) so it's very comfortable and easy when applying on small (figures, accessories) and big parts like walls and other scenery. This is water-based glue so it's easy to reposition/align glued parts, like front and back of the figure but after several seconds it adhesives into surface and elements are very firmly glued (and, what's important, it remains elastic to some extent, so figures/elements are less breakable; it's also easier to wash hands and even possible to clean the paper when you apply too much glue). There is also "Power Pritt" - much stronger according to producer, but I got no experience with this one as standard version is just fine for me. BTW: I like "crosspiece" elements idea - simple and quick to assemble but versatile and good looking results!!! |
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Post by aviphysics on Jan 31, 2012 9:40:13 GMT -9
I really like the slot ruins series as is but want to try making a set with foam board. One possibility is to just do the larger pieces in foam core with slots for normal cardstock pieces to maintain compatibility.
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Post by Parduz on Feb 3, 2012 7:32:51 GMT -9
I really like the slot ruins series as is but want to try making a set with foam board. One possibility is to just do the larger pieces in foam core with slots for normal cardstock pieces to maintain compatibility. Done.... they're awesome   It could be a bit simpler if the two printed sides were some mm far from the folding line, but it can be done  About glues: i'd like to try the UHU pen  Sadly, i cannot find it or anything similar... so i use superglue on tiny tabs or place that i cant reach with fingers, and Pritt stick son large surfaces. I hate the time required by the stick to stay fix, so i'm rediscovering the good ol' PVA glue ("Vinavil", here). In very small quantity (just a thin layer of glue) it is not wet enough to bend the paper and keeps the two parts very strong. |
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Post by aviphysics on Feb 3, 2012 9:14:01 GMT -9
nice job
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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 3, 2012 9:51:24 GMT -9
Groovy. I believe I'll start doing the same to my 2d wall sections. ;D
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Post by oldschooldm on Feb 3, 2012 10:17:49 GMT -9
Agreed. Is that white foam-board that you edge-painted with marker/sharpie? |
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Post by Parduz on Feb 3, 2012 10:40:55 GMT -9
Is that white foam-board that you edge-painted with marker/sharpie? Exactly. I edged the paper with black, glued on 3mm white foamcore which was then grayed with one of my kids marker Also, a "not perfect" cut leaves some "bumps" on the foam that becomes darker when you color the foam, resulting in a more "ruined" look. |
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Post by josedominguez on Feb 4, 2012 4:36:58 GMT -9
They look superb, I've got loads of them made with normal card, but that just blows mine away. I must do this !
I honestly think Dave's crosspiece ruins are the most versatile set of scenery pieces ever.
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Post by josedominguez on Feb 4, 2012 4:39:18 GMT -9
I really like the slot ruins series as is but want to try making a set with foam board. One possibility is to just do the larger pieces in foam core with slots for normal cardstock pieces to maintain compatibility. Done.... they're awesome It could be a bit simpler if the two printed sides were some mm far from the folding line, but it can be done About glues: i'd like to try the UHU pen Sadly, i cannot find it or anything similar... so i use superglue on tiny tabs or place that i cant reach with fingers, and Pritt stick son large surfaces. I hate the time required by the stick to stay fix, so i'm rediscovering the good ol' PVA glue ("Vinavil", here). In very small quantity (just a thin layer of glue) it is not wet enough to bend the paper and keeps the two parts very strong. THose glue pens are superb, I use them for all of my minis.... anything that requires a folded piece of card to be glued. I wonder what postage would be to get some to you?  ? |
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Post by Parduz on Feb 4, 2012 5:32:03 GMT -9
THose glue pens are superb, I use them for all of my minis.... anything that requires a folded piece of card to be glued. I wonder what postage would be to get some to you? ? From U.S.? I guess somewhat between 15$ and 45$, depending on the final size/weight of the package. Dunno what the price for that pens is, but shipping costs makes buying them impratical. I honestly think Dave's crosspiece ruins are the most versatile set of scenery pieces ever. Finger & Toes Perimeter is another great set that could benefit from the same treatement, and Pipeline too, with some mod. |
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Post by Rhannon on Feb 4, 2012 7:28:25 GMT -9
Parduz, Jose is in UK.
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Post by josedominguez on Feb 4, 2012 7:58:33 GMT -9
Yup, the name causes some confusion Nothing to do with nationality, Spain or Mexico, I used to play a lot of tournament paintball and the name is related to Tequila consumption |
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Post by Parduz on Feb 4, 2012 8:02:48 GMT -9
  Yup, the name causes some confusion Nothing to do with nationality, Spain or Mexico, I used to play a lot of tournament paintball and the name is related to Tequila consumption Sorry. I remember the nickname origins, but i did'nt recall where you're living.... then it is a complete different thing..... from previous ebay deal, it could stay under £8, perhaps around 3 or 4. We're going OT a lot, i'll PM you
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Post by aviphysics on Feb 5, 2012 6:05:59 GMT -9
Done.... they're awesome It could be a bit simpler if the two printed sides were some mm far from the folding line, but it can be done About glues: i'd like to try the UHU pen Sadly, i cannot find it or anything similar... so i use superglue on tiny tabs or place that i cant reach with fingers, and Pritt stick son large surfaces. I hate the time required by the stick to stay fix, so i'm rediscovering the good ol' PVA glue ("Vinavil", here). In very small quantity (just a thin layer of glue) it is not wet enough to bend the paper and keeps the two parts very strong. THose glue pens are superb, I use them for all of my minis.... anything that requires a folded piece of card to be glued. I wonder what postage would be to get some to you? ? Anyone ever see them sold in the US? |
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Post by Dave on Feb 5, 2012 11:45:58 GMT -9
Uhu is available in the US. Most art supply stores and scrapbooking shops should carry them.
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?
Spent two 'fun' hours last night unclogging a heat break tube (the nozzle was a lost cause and replaced). Stupid bowden tube slipped and molten plastic spilled up into the heat break tube and congealed.
Mar 22, 2023 12:25:21 GMT -9
