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Post by Mike H "Chugosh" on Nov 12, 2011 20:26:06 GMT -9
It seems like it would make some of the more complex 2.5d stuff go together easier, but I wonder how many guys would end up glued to my fingers.
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 13, 2011 2:14:42 GMT -9
That's what I use to make my buildings. You have to be quick and precise. Any error in alignment of the tabs is very permanent. And a surface that has CA in it can't be glued again even if you can get the glued surfaces apart. Glued fingers is a small part of the challenge.
Let's say that it adds an element of adrenalin to the proccess.
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Post by josedominguez on Nov 13, 2011 4:35:41 GMT -9
I use tacky craft glue..... it's just a really good PVA that dries fast and has more of an initial hold when you first start assembling. Get it from scrapbooking/cardmaking suppliers.
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Post by Mike H "Chugosh" on Nov 13, 2011 5:54:02 GMT -9
I use tacky craft glue..... it's just a really good PVA that dries fast and has more of an initial hold when you first start assembling. Get it from scrapbooking/cardmaking suppliers. Yeah, that is what I have been using, and it does alright for most stuff. I like the Aileens, but I'm using up my bottle of Elmers Craft Bond. So how does that effect doing something like spot bonding with CA and then reinforcing with PVA? Is it simply time to go back to the printer at that point?
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Post by josedominguez on Nov 13, 2011 6:11:27 GMT -9
CA cures when it hits water.... that's why it sticks skin so well Once it dries it's got no moisture in it and it seals the paper, making it set really, really slowly if you try to stick something that's had CA on it already (any moisture in the material has already been used up and the porous surfce is sealed so it's just from the moisture in the air making it cure). Paper sticks so well because its so absorbent and takes lots of moisture in from the air, seal that surface behind a layer of glue and you are just sticking glue to glue really. You'll never get that same 'instant bond'. It'll stick, but in the same way as glass or plastic, not the way skin and paper stick.
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Post by glennwilliams on Nov 13, 2011 6:46:50 GMT -9
I'm too much of a klutz to use superglue. With Elmer's Tacky Bond I have to stop every few minutes to clean my fingers, but with superglue, I'd have to stop to go to Urgent Care!
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Post by oldschooldm on Nov 13, 2011 7:43:12 GMT -9
Scotch Clear/Scrapbooker glue, applied with a cardstock "brush" and held together with bobby pins is my choice. Very tacky and dries clearly.
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Post by Dagger on Nov 13, 2011 8:23:42 GMT -9
I use a gluestick on the two halves of the model... but I use CA glue to fix the model to the base when I'm flat-basing... works fine for me.
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Post by Mike H "Chugosh" on Nov 14, 2011 13:42:54 GMT -9
I'm too much of a klutz to use superglue. With Elmer's Tacky Bond I have to stop every few minutes to clean my fingers, but with superglue, I'd have to stop to go to Urgent Care! I had to read that aloud to the wife. Chuckle achieved! I've been using either craft bond PVA or gluestick for the initial lamination. Either paper and construction paper or card stock. The PVA works alright to stick the Mechs to their bases because of the whole 2.5 d thing, but I don't think it would be quite so good with 2d figures. My main point to use the CA would be the hip joints on the Mech Attack mechs. That is, it would if I had any CA on hand. I've just discovered all of my stockpile has gone solid. I'd like to give the scotch glue a try.
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Post by dcbradshaw on Nov 14, 2011 15:57:47 GMT -9
A perfect application. Somewhere, maybe here on CW (but maybe on the MA forums) someone called that a superglue "weld," specifically in reference to that joint on the mechs. Some things you just need to weld.
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Post by kiladecus on Nov 27, 2011 7:11:25 GMT -9
"Weld" is a PERFECT word to describe it. You use just a small dab, to hold whatever in place, and then use standard glue after the piece in in place.
The one thing I have learned was that super glue have a way of "bleeding" through paper, and it blurs the ink.
What I do is after the model is dry, I run a bead of Elmer's along the seams and smooth it out. This works great to prevent the edges from peeling up over time.
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Post by glennwilliams on Nov 27, 2011 11:10:40 GMT -9
I just found an application where superglue would have been superior. I made little gift boxes for truffles for each person at Thanksgiving (a grandkid on each face--lots of "oohs" and "ahhs"). I used really extra glossy photopaper, so one set of tabs needed glue on the glossy side. Instead of scraping off the gloss, I coulda' used superglue (one of the moments V8 advertises). So I think I'll modify my no to maybe.
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Post by gothique on Dec 14, 2011 4:28:30 GMT -9
I wouldn't risk superglue on card models, I only use it for metal conversions. I tend to swap between PVA and UHU (the one in the yellow tube)
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Post by Parduz on Dec 14, 2011 5:13:40 GMT -9
I often use superglue. I use the "school" stick glue for large parts or large tabs, otherwise i use my trusty "Attack" (cyanoacrilate....or whatever it is) 'cause i can almost "control" it: the trick is how big is the drop and how much you'll wait before joining the two parts: too much glue, or too less time and the glue will "soak" the paper and your finger. The contrary will make the glue dry too soon. And when i print using photoprinting services, it is the only option available. Sure, even if i always use a pair of tweezers, my fingerprints are sealed in hardened glue for a day or so
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Post by Adam Souza on Dec 14, 2011 6:06:03 GMT -9
I use the 1 hour photo a lot to print to 4x6. The paper is much more durable, but yeah you can't really glue it the same way. I haven't tried superglue, but I've found that putting a layer of Super Tacky Craft Glue on both sides and then lighting it dry until it's gummy before pressing it together works.
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Post by oldschooldm on Nov 11, 2015 11:26:27 GMT -9
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