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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 4, 2017 8:47:23 GMT -9
The balsa stick walls were ... okay. They're only 1/4 inch tall, though, and in play I found my players had a hard time seeing them on the table. The wall height you use is much, much better for gameplay. One thing I have experimented with is making clip-on walls, but it uses a lot of paper. It was a test to see if I could make full-height modular walls. Stock DoO on the left, full-height clip-on wall to the right.
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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 4, 2017 8:22:37 GMT -9
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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 4, 2017 4:01:40 GMT -9
We are talking past each other again. I'm talking about solving the 15' x 15' problem.
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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 4, 2017 2:43:30 GMT -9
I'm just noodling some noodle thoughts right now ... If there was a tile with a wall down the center (rather than aligned to the edge), wouldn't that fix the 5ft/10ft problem while still maintaining the overall 2x2 geometry? I got to thinking about it while looking at your curved tile, which will have the outside edge. With the wall-in-the-middle, half the tile would be "outside" the dungeon, and half inside.
Does that make sense?
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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 2, 2017 5:23:31 GMT -9
Do you mean the true curved-wall tile, or the dodecagon version in the pictures? The dodecagon. Anything to save myself the trouble of hand-cutting a million tiny saw-tooth tabs, as I don't have a cutter.
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Post by sunraven01 on Apr 1, 2017 5:47:02 GMT -9
That high pitched sound you hear is me going "squeeeeee!" over the curved tile. That is some CLEVER thinking right there.
I cannot WAIT for you to get this set up for sale.
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Post by sunraven01 on Dec 28, 2016 17:01:31 GMT -9
You basically missed my point entirely, and I can't tell if it's because of what I wrote or because you don't understand what Wyloch was explaining in his videos. What is clear to me is you don't grasp the difference between map scales, and until you do, you won't understand the need for more than 2x2 tiles.
You can't make a 15' by 15' room (or any size room that does not end in a zero) using 2x2 tiles, because your minimum tile size is 10' on a side. The only way to make a 15' by 15' room is to have a 1x2 or two 1x1 tiles.
On a map using 1 square = 10 feet, this problem doesn't exist, because all dimensions are a multiple of 10. However, in maps using a scale of 1 square = 5 feet, the 2x2 tile system breaks down any time you have a room dimension that is a multiple of 5 instead of 10. That's basic math.
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Post by sunraven01 on Dec 28, 2016 12:18:56 GMT -9
The standard scale for the tile set as it stands is roughly 5 feet per square, with each tile (so far) being 2 squares by 2 squares. The standard scale for this style of tile set, based on Wyloch's 1.25" grid tiles, is that one map square = 10 feet, as seen here. This allows for faithful reproduction of any map where 1 square = 10 feet. However, modern map scales, particularly for fantasy RPG games, are based on 1 map square = 5 feet. That means the 2x2 Wyloch tiles cannot be used to faithfully reproduce maps at that scale, without the introduction of 1x1 and 1x2 tile pieces, which is a limitation he acknowledges in his introductory video, starting at 7:30m. If I'm going to have to make interpretation maps to use the 2x2 Wyloch tiles with a 1 square = 5 foot map scale, then I'm just going to continue to use the 3" and 6" WWG pieces I have already invested crafting time in creating, rather than moving to a new terrain system that ALSO doesn't allow me to faithfully recreate modern maps.
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Post by sunraven01 on Dec 24, 2016 14:20:22 GMT -9
I would want the pieces necessary to do both 1sq=5ft or 1sq=10ft at a bare minimum. That means 1x1, 1x2, and 2x2, with field, one wall, two wall, corner, dead-ends, and L-walls (corners with one short leg).
I would use YOUR art, and if people want to kitbash for another style, let them do that work for themselves.
You don't have to be everything to everyone and WWG didn't offer cartoony graphics just because some people liked it. They had their own style and went with that. They standardized on a 3" and 6" size for TLX, and only added diagonal and curved walls late in the game.
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Post by sunraven01 on Dec 23, 2016 6:01:32 GMT -9
Hey Jeff -- I'm back to playing with your tiles again (yay, paper crafting time over the holidays) and I have to tell you there is so much I love about your design. The more I tinker with them, the more I appreciate how brilliant it is. Have you put these up for sale somewhere yet? I want to throw some money at you!
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 13, 2016 5:35:46 GMT -9
The Epson paper is signficantly more expensive than the 110 lb cardstock (only 50 sheets per pack rather than 250). I haven't built up the minis I printed on the Epson paper, but since it's thinner, I'm a little concerned about it's durability as compared to the 110 lb cardstock. I know some people add an additional layer to their paper minis. But I'm not going to do that because it would take too much time--I cut by hand using an X-acto knife. I've been hoping to try out Krylon Satin Finish on my cheap cardstock prints, but we've been really humid where I live since August (ideal conditions as stated on the can is 70-80 F with low humidity--there may be one month out of the year that we have conditions like that here--I'm not doing all my paper craft in that one month). I'd rather dull prints than frosted prints. Hey Nolabert! I've been using the Epson paper (with both OEM Epson ink and 3rd party ink) for ... years. I could tell you how many years, but the WWG forums are down so I can't say when I subbed over there, but it's at least four years, and probably more like six. I've used it for FDG-style 3D box walls, I've used it for TLX builds, I've used it for miniatures, I've used it for FDG Ravenfell buildings, I've used it for everything. I can unequivocally tell you it does not suffer for durability, and I don't use varnishes or sprays. My players are adults, and we eat at the gaming table (though I admit it's more baked brie and crackers with wine than Doritos with Mt. Dew), so I don't have to worry about little kids or messy hands. For gamers with that challenge, I bet the varnishes make a whole lot of sense. I, also, do not have a paper cutter. Everything I've done in 4 years, and I have done a LOT of terrain, has been done by hand. As for cost, I don't remember the last time I bought the Epson paper at Staples and it WASN'T on sale at 2-for-1, including this weekend when I bought two new packs. That brings the cost down significantly, to an average of 13 US cents per page. Still more expensive than the 250-pack of card stock (which I also have on hand), but it's not like I'm printing this stuff on gold leaf, at least.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 12, 2016 12:47:49 GMT -9
I definitely disagree with you about the quality of cardstock prints. I use 110lb card stock for test builds or terrain given away as a gift. The difference in print quality between the card stock and matte photo paper is night and day. You say "very good;" I say adequate. Card stock on the top; Epson Premium Presentation Paper Matte on the bottom. Kitbashing was going to happen anyway, even if I wasn't replacing your textures. You wrap your stone texture around to the bottom of the tile, which is a waste of printer ink for something no one will see and can't be used in play. I also magnetize my tiles, so while your clever clip design will get plenty of use for doors, traps, and things like wall torches, I don't need to print clips on the pages for keeping segments together. It also got removed to save printer ink. Reconfiguring the layout also gave me the ability to fit 3 field tiles on a page, super useful for surface streets. I would certainly characterize my test builds as DoO tiles, since they use your geometry. It sounds like you mis-read or misunderstood what I wrote previously.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 12, 2016 10:18:27 GMT -9
I did a bunch of work converting TLX walls to be magnetized so I could do away with the posts; now I'm considering the move to a 2.5D dungeon tile style instead, using WWG textures.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 12, 2016 5:02:02 GMT -9
If the website doesn't come back up, I might be "looking for" the Pharaoh's Descent set. It's the only one of the fantasy-themed TLX sets that I don't own, and I really dig the WWG textures over some other companies.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 12, 2016 3:00:00 GMT -9
Hey Jeff, As someone who just spent two solid days of making a pretty nice encounter piece of Wyloch-style modular tiles for a one-shot game, I wish I had seen this earlier. I will be experimenting with your designs today. Do you have any shots of a larger build (rather than two-or-three tiles. I'm curious how the thickness of the folded card stock walls affects grid alignment over a 20-30 piece build. Edit -- scratch that. I just built a few test tiles and answered my own question. The folded card stock wall is only a double layer above the tile (and a single layer at tile-side level, due to the wrapper) so there is no mathing error to be propagated. It's a very pretty "finished" look with the wrapper, but it does add time to the tile construction. I do like this design, a lot! So glad to hear they're working for you. I hadn't thought about them being directly compatible with Wyloch tiles to the point of being able to put them on the table together in a single set-up, but I can't see why they wouldn't work together physically. The stylistic difference would be a matter of taste, of course. Now that I've got the system down, I can assemble a tile in about five to eight minutes, depending on how many walled sides the tile has. This doesn't include printing time, or prepping the foamcore squares or the optional labels (which I do about 10-12 at a time to make it faster) but does include cutting out with an X-acto, scoring for folds, and gluing in place. That might sound like a lot, but I do it with YouTube gaming vids streaming, and by the end of an episode of Drunkens and Dragons or Critical Role, you've accumulated a respectable stack of tiles. I've set up layouts that involve 20-30 tiles, and I have found the thickness of the cardstock wrapper to be negligible. I don't imagine that it would be any more of a problem if you covered a whole table top with them. In the medium to long term, I plan to set up a table specifically for photography, with good flash equipment and a "real" camera. When I do that, I'll be setting up a variety of layouts, so show the versatility of the set. Incidentally, the pics I've posted and used in the PDF to date were shot with my phone on my desk, which worked much better than I expected, but aren't really good enough for promotion or illustration in a version I plan to charge money for. I've got a staircase almost ready for release, which will ultimately be included in the fold-flat stair collection oldschooldm is putting together. I'll post it here for the Cardboard Warriors as well, though I don't plan to include it in the free Basic Dungeon set when it's released. Instead, it will be part of the larger Classic Dungeon set, which will also include angled walls, curved walls, pits, single-space passages, and a few larger tiles (such as double-length corridors and 4-space-square field tiles). If I don't post the staircase in this thread, I'll edit a link to it in this post. If you have any questions or comments on the set, please post them here, or send me a direct message through the forum. In the meantime, enjoy! PS: Literally nothing would thrill me more than seeing a pic or two of Dungeons of Olde tiles that someone else has assembled, or better yet, is actually using in play. Just saying... Well, here's what I can tell you as an experienced papercrafter, terrain assembler and DM: I can print and cut out Wyloch-style tiles and get six tiles out of a single sheet of paper. Something like this, where I used foam core for the base, and 1/4 inch balsa wood sticks for the walls, but I can only get that many if I don't do side wall texturing. I've left it black, as I would have if I had made the walls out of a single thick mess of foam core. Your system fits at most two tiles per sheet of paper, and if I need to make a bunch of walled tiles, not field tiles, then it's one per sheet. That isn't necessarily a deal breaker -- it puts you on par with WWG or FDG, and I've certainly spent enough money on their products hahah! It is something I think about though because I prefer to use photo paper rather than card stock. What I prefer about your approach to the Wyloch-style is the "zero thickness" walls, which is why I preferred TLX to FDG walls as well. I will confess that your art is not to my taste, but it's easy enough for me to replace it in Photoshop with the WWG textures that I prefer. I've already made a few templates for myself. The clip on walls and connectors are quite clever. This is a big mark in the "pro" column for me. Finally, you should be aware that where your system will break down is on 1 square = 5 feet maps. It's impossible to creat a 15-foot wide room or corridor without adding 1-square wide pieces. This is not a deal breaker at all, but something for you to keep in mind as the system creator.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 11, 2016 4:14:25 GMT -9
Hey Jeff, As someone who just spent two solid days of making a pretty nice encounter piece of Wyloch-style modular tiles for a one-shot game, I wish I had seen this earlier. I will be experimenting with your designs today. Do you have any shots of a larger build (rather than two-or-three tiles. I'm curious how the thickness of the folded card stock walls affects grid alignment over a 20-30 piece build. Edit -- scratch that. I just built a few test tiles and answered my own question. The folded card stock wall is only a double layer above the tile (and a single layer at tile-side level, due to the wrapper) so there is no mathing error to be propagated. It's a very pretty "finished" look with the wrapper, but it does add time to the tile construction. I do like this design, a lot!
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Post by sunraven01 on Nov 5, 2015 14:11:20 GMT -9
I like the cobbles!
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Post by sunraven01 on Sept 5, 2015 3:13:45 GMT -9
Thanks! Both of those are great!
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Post by sunraven01 on Sept 5, 2015 0:58:11 GMT -9
They can be purchased in many shades, but in D&D a character can be affected by multiple statuses at once. We use craft foam tokens to keep track of things, but mproteau's idea of base covers is intriguing.
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Post by sunraven01 on Sept 4, 2015 11:25:18 GMT -9
Striking figure, but I was staring at the base! So I downloaded one of your base sets, and I think I have to re-print my entire mini collection now to work with your bases. The ability to store legions of figures in a simple binder instead of filling a whole cupboard is just invaluable. I'll probably add a few more varieties to the bases soon. I have Litko paper mini bases; I don't permanently mount my paper minis.
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Post by sunraven01 on Sept 4, 2015 5:53:24 GMT -9
Gimme what you got! In November, I will be running a campaign sorta-based on Tyranny of Dragons, so I have need of lots and lots of dragons and dragonkin. Fortunately I have kobolds in many colors, but in looking through my collection, dragons are sorely under-represented!
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Post by sunraven01 on Sept 4, 2015 4:26:36 GMT -9
Striking figure, but I was staring at the base! So I downloaded one of your base sets, and I think I have to re-print my entire mini collection now to work with your bases.
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Post by sunraven01 on Mar 3, 2015 10:04:19 GMT -9
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Post by sunraven01 on Nov 8, 2014 9:56:29 GMT -9
First off, it's just amazing how spread out this community is. I love it! Second, my world geography is terrible. I figured if you're that far east in Russia, you must be near squirmydad. Looks like you're closer to Ryan from Brave Adventures! I've had fun pulling up google maps street view and discovering that many places around the world look just like home to me. Oh, and I live up in the northeastern part of the US in Massachusetts. What part of MA? I'm a little south of Boston.
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Post by sunraven01 on Nov 4, 2014 11:53:10 GMT -9
Having had both pet rats and mice, let me tell you if you couldn't tell which ones were male, you need corrective eye wear. Rodent balls are HUGE and VERY OBVIOUS.
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Post by sunraven01 on Nov 4, 2014 11:03:26 GMT -9
Where the rat women at? <3
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Post by sunraven01 on Nov 1, 2014 21:51:01 GMT -9
The Blue Shark appears to be intended to be used in an underwater combat, yes? And the White Shark is cruising the surface?
Make the Blue Shark's fin overlaid on a coral outcropping instead of the water currently. As if he were cruising around a reef.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 19, 2014 5:47:17 GMT -9
I thought the blocks were a great, fresh take on the problem of: how do I provide tangible, tactical terrain? They're really cool.
Edited to add -- I just printed out the Room of the Sun from the Warlock set and it's amazing on the table. Printed on Epson matte photo paper and the colors are so vibrant. I love it.
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 18, 2014 12:10:15 GMT -9
Pumpkinlings! Attachments:
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Post by sunraven01 on Oct 17, 2014 17:00:17 GMT -9
You are THE BEST.
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