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Post by hackbarth on May 9, 2020 14:12:56 GMT -9
I have been absent from the forum for a while, do you still need the original files of these characters? In celebration of the new Star Trek:Picard (!) series that launches this evening I've started to tackle the backlog of uploads in this thread, some of which unfortunately have dead links or links to lo-res versions. If you still have a higher quality version of these please PM them to me and I will swap up the downloads. Thanks. www.onemonk.com/wnmhgb.htmlhackbarthshep@coyotepunc
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Post by hackbarth on Sept 29, 2019 5:37:34 GMT -9
Well done. It almost looks like a photo of a real mini. Nicely done. It's a photo of a real mini. It's Marcus the Vampire painted by Bane3d. I just edited the figure to use as a paper miniature, since I didn't find anything that could fit the current look of Strahd.
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Post by hackbarth on Sept 3, 2019 4:45:31 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Sept 3, 2019 4:37:22 GMT -9
I'm preparing Curse of Strahd for my next campaign:
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Post by hackbarth on Jul 29, 2018 16:26:56 GMT -9
The alpha channel holds opacity information. When you create a layer mask, you're essentially editing the alpha channel for a layer, though in a non-destructive way (you can always turn off the layer mask and your original layer is unchanged). The color-to-alpha filter operates on any selected region in a layer (though apparently you can't use it on a layer mask). It uses the RGB value of a selected color to determine opacity of each pixel in the region. If the colors match, it's completely transparent. Partial matches become partially transparent. I haven't read up on the actual implementation to be able to describe exactly how it matches. I typically use it on greyscale images, where black stays black, grey becomes partially transparent, and white just goes away. That's how I convert my templates from Silhouette Studio cutfiles into layers in GIMP. But why have alpha functionality and layer mask functionality? Seems like the same thing. Is the alpha destructive? For one thing, you can save a PNG with the Alpha information, to make a icon, for example, and that is not an option working with layers.
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Post by hackbarth on Jul 4, 2018 14:38:44 GMT -9
I really need to make more samurai minis. Any requests? Civilian life. I look for Usagi Yojimbo for my Japanese inspiration. Wood gatherers, people working the fields, tattooed gamblers, nicely dressed upper class woman and entertainers, imperial burocrats, medieval policemen with jitte...
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Post by hackbarth on Jul 4, 2018 12:44:10 GMT -9
I want free-to-use Spacecraft elements in top down view, like the ones from 0-hr studios. Chairs, beds, machinery, consoles.
They SHOULD be free to use and later publish. Anything that has a Creative Commons, Open Game License or Open source License.
Anyone can point me in the right direction?
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Post by hackbarth on Feb 27, 2018 16:48:12 GMT -9
Anyway, the Cthulhu model does have a pale grid on the first page as some of Jim's older models do. It seems to have something to do with how he converted them to pdf, so if you are wanting to do a very top quality model, allow yourself some graphics program time to straighten it out before you print. I did had this problem with Jim's older sets.
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Post by hackbarth on Jan 8, 2018 15:44:38 GMT -9
Dropbox changed how public files can be shared. I'll find a new way of hosting these PDFs and post again.
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Post by hackbarth on Jan 6, 2018 1:47:11 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 11, 2017 15:28:11 GMT -9
It needs some sloping on the sides. As it is it's too much stylistic distinct from the Wolverine. Wolverine looks High Tech and this one looks Steampunkish.
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Post by hackbarth on Sept 8, 2017 3:29:39 GMT -9
I never got very good at Gimp, until I decided to follow some of hackbarth 's tutorials. It's a very good start in using the system Who summoned me by my unholy name!? Oh, it was just Vermin King, go on then... Anyway, if you want to try GIMP, I'm editing images for use as cardboard minis almost since I entered the forum, drop me a DM for any questions you may have and I can point you to a tutorial or make one if it's something I can help you with. Mind that GIMP is more for editing images, which is nice to me that can't draw anythingo more than stick figures. For drawing I recommend Krita, a free and open program that I wish I had the drawing skill to use.
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Post by hackbarth on Jul 16, 2017 12:15:06 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on May 16, 2017 4:48:36 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Feb 12, 2017 10:00:30 GMT -9
I only made the six figures. They where mods on the free set of Terra Force Auxiliary. Since they would be released on the forum I didn't felt the liberty of hacking the paid sets.
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Post by hackbarth on Jan 8, 2017 17:48:41 GMT -9
Most of the walls of the Nottinghan castle are repeats. What is missing is the keep.
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Post by hackbarth on Jan 8, 2017 3:32:04 GMT -9
As much as I like the green roofs in the tropical versions, I have to point that once cut, the palm fronds turn brown in a week at most...
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 28, 2016 4:56:16 GMT -9
So the page was already posted here, and it even had a comment by me there! Sorry! Feel free to delete or merge.
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 27, 2016 2:41:09 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 17, 2016 17:30:58 GMT -9
I did, but didn't build it yet. Printing the sheets in A3 format did the trick, not exact scale, but very believable.
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 17, 2016 17:28:04 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 17, 2016 17:17:21 GMT -9
3d printing isn't much the reason that papercraft isn't growing anymore. The maturity of gaming tools for roleplaying, like skype, hangouts, roll20, fantasy grounds and others is more a factor. Today it's more practical to assemble a gaming group online than in person. But that precludes using miniatures.
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 2, 2016 13:52:02 GMT -9
I played very loose with scale, but if I standardize on shep and okumarts scale of 1/5170 in 300 dpi, I need to run some numbers: 300dpi is 118.11 pixels per cm. At 1/5170, 1m is 0,01934cm. At 300dpi this translates to 1m=2.28pixels. The Constitution class, at 305m, must be 697pixels long. Is that so?
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Post by hackbarth on Dec 2, 2016 13:37:31 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 28, 2016 6:20:18 GMT -9
Magnets would solve the wing drop down issue, it's a joint that never sags off.
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 28, 2016 6:14:55 GMT -9
Klingons have no specific interest in science or research.
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 27, 2016 10:21:20 GMT -9
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 26, 2016 16:38:40 GMT -9
Use magnets for joints. It never wears out or tears the paper. This seems the perfect use case.
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 26, 2016 8:22:29 GMT -9
As this thread seems like a "central hub" for Star Trek related stuffs, I think I should put my request here.... ...to everyone that designs Ship models, may i ask for: 1) transparent, 300dpi PNGs of all your ships? 2) maybe already resized to a constant, coherent scale? 3) with single-pixel-wide, non-aliased folding lines? 4) without (or with a different colored) "flying support" (the part under the ship body)? I'd like to build the ships and make a christmas gift for a friend. He's very ... nitpicking about the relative scale (nothing we can do about it, he's brain is just wired that way) so this is why i ask for 2. About 1), i always use online photoprinting services, 'cause it costs about nothing and give me sturdy, solvent/superglue-resistant, rigid paper to work with. But the most cheap format is the 10x15cm photo, so i need to rearrange and realign all the various part to reduce the number of prints i need. And 3) is 'cause it is much more easy, when aligning layers of the various minis parts, to just put a line over another instead of evaluatin what part of the antialiased pixels contains the "majority" of the line.... As I could choose to print everything at 50% or 75% of the original size, precision become a factor. And 4) 'cause i think I'll use transparent plastic from scrapped packaging as "support". Do you think it is possible? 1) Can do. 2) Maybe, some ships don't have official sizes. 3) Can do for most ships. 4) Already done. All my ships are a little loose with the scale, but I can manage to arrange them all. But I print them all in 15x10cm photos, is that ok? I can arrange them on a A4 sheet also.
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Post by hackbarth on Nov 21, 2016 1:41:03 GMT -9
Wow, I never got to do the Constelation Class! This goes to my collection!
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