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Post by alloydog on Aug 30, 2019 5:43:08 GMT -9
From the title, I formed in my head, the image of monk carrying oversized drawing instruments, such as set-square, compass, quills and paper.
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Post by alloydog on Aug 26, 2019 8:16:29 GMT -9
Neat  Funnily enough, a few days ago, I read from r/todayilearned/ that crescent moon on the door denoted it was the ladies' outhouse and star was used for the men's. The reason you see so many more with doors, is that the ladies' outhouses were better looked after. |
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Post by alloydog on Aug 24, 2019 2:33:06 GMT -9
The plan was to start playing Chronicles of Blood with 15 mm figures, so I could have bigger armies in a smaller the space... But, with work, house repairs and redecorating and general life (not to mention getting distracted with Darkfest Dungeons) getting in the way, progress has been slower than hoped for. Here's the stuff so far:  The Men-at-Arms and Demons are from the monthly horde collections and the skeleton cavalry are from Mayhem in Paper:  Men at Arms  Demon Lords The middle figure is actually a Dark Knight, from another horde, but I didn't shrink him as much to keep him big and chunky.  Skeleton Cavalry The bases for the Men at Arms and Skeleton Cavalry are textured wallpaper, but for the Demon Lords, I couldn't find anything lava-ry enough, so I played around with GIMP to get something that looked like hot, burning earth. They are technically 25 mm/1", but found that the bridge path was 25 mm wide, so the bases are more like 23 to 24 mm, but not that you'd notice. But, since I play solo, it doesn't really matter anyway... A bit more scenery - I'm thinking just simple some print-ups of dense forest to put at the battle-field edges to give a natural boundary. Then maybe a write-up of a game or two. |
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Post by alloydog on Aug 6, 2019 20:10:03 GMT -9
I keep thinking about banjos and "gonna make you squeal like a piggy, boy!"
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Post by alloydog on Aug 3, 2019 7:45:02 GMT -9
I always wondered why Paper General liked the 96 dpi setting. It's the default resolution for MS Paint. MS Paint used to be 72 dpi, but sometime between Windows 98 and Windows 7 it changed to 96 dpi to match PC monitors. |
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Post by alloydog on Aug 3, 2019 7:41:30 GMT -9
Back to your original question; A section called "Small Scale" can easily be created, and then sub-boards for 6mm, 15mm, 20mm, other. Does that work? Sounds good to me!  |
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Post by alloydog on Aug 3, 2019 1:10:49 GMT -9
Many years ago I was playing 6mm and 15mm scale sci-fi games so I converted 28mm paperminis down by up-scaling the resolution then down-scaling the size. Worked pretty well, some of the details are difficult to discern on 6mm infantry; 6mm ST InfantryWhoa! Those are great. Totally shames my first (and only) attempt at 6 mm figures. Though, as a feeble excuse, I started with a template figure from Junior General, which was 1/72nd scale and only 96 dpi. I then scaled down to 1/300 scale and reduced the colours:     (yes, yes, I know Pompey's legions didn't have blue shields, but it was to separate them from Ceasar's dudes) |
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Post by alloydog on Aug 1, 2019 9:37:53 GMT -9
All of it /should/ be migrated automtically, but we're talking about computers here. Allways have a current copy of your website saved somewhere other than the host service.
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Post by alloydog on Aug 1, 2019 1:04:56 GMT -9
Three words: Back up everything!  |
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Post by alloydog on Jul 31, 2019 10:07:05 GMT -9
It seems like there is an interest in scales smaller than 30 mm, such as 15 mm and 6 mm.
Since some of the challenges are different, for example basing, and also I think the artistic requirements are different: At 30 mm, the detail you guys put into the figures and models is fantastic, but at smaller scales it can get lost and also "blur" the figures - For example, I found for some figures, doing things like Posterising or increasing the contrast, while making the figure look horrible at 30 mm, made it look better at 15 mm, as key features stand out. A bit like that Super Mario wasn't meant to have moustache, it was just that the low-resolution representation of a face made it look like he had one and so it stuck. Different challenges for different scales.
So, how about a separate section for the lil' folk?
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Post by alloydog on Jul 31, 2019 0:05:05 GMT -9
Something I knocked up for a B3ta.com image challenge about a decade ago...  |
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Post by alloydog on Jul 30, 2019 6:55:35 GMT -9
That is one of my "currently running in my head" problems. But for now, I'm taking a different approach. I'm mounting the figures on inch square bases. Two cavalry figures per base, four infantry or one big beastie. This so that I can reorganise the troop layout going from wide frontt to columns, for example, when crossing a narrow bridge.  Actually, the bases are 24 mm, as the covered bridge, by Dave Graffam, printed up as 25 mm wide, so 1"/25 mm bases were a smidging too big. But, still want to play around with wide troop blocks, so still thinking about it. |
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Post by alloydog on Jul 30, 2019 0:18:00 GMT -9
There is one issue I have with blocks of figures is the basing of them. With individual figures, you can use removable bases, so everything packs flat. But with blocks, I haven't found a good way to mount them securely enough to play with, but still removable for safe packing. At the moment, I still glue them to fixed bases, but then they have the same storage issues as plastic figures.   |
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Post by alloydog on Jul 27, 2019 11:14:48 GMT -9
I'm interested in them - they gave me the thought that virtually everything you see for fantasy stuff seems to be based on medieval Europe. I think it'd be good to have a tropical fantasy campaign.
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Post by alloydog on Jul 27, 2019 7:54:57 GMT -9
The first thing that came to my mind was WWII Burmese village huts. They'd also work well for Vietnam era wargaming.
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Post by alloydog on Jul 27, 2019 1:16:31 GMT -9
I really like the idea of blocked figures. But, would it be too much work to make sure there are subtle differences between figures in a single block? At the moment, I use figures from various character sets - these tend to have figures which are very different from each other, such as a couple of spears, some swords and a few archers. If I want a large block of similar armed figures, such as swordsmen, I have onbly two or three different figures to work with. I then have (OK, I don't have to, but I want to...) play around, editing head positions, angles the swords are held at so on, to give a bit of variety.
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Post by alloydog on Jul 22, 2019 5:32:37 GMT -9
Just out of interest, how wide are the figures? I mean, years ago, I started to make some "6 mm" figures for the 1808-09 Suomen Sota (Finnish war). I reckoned that if 1 mm equalled one foot, then the average bloke would be about 2 mm across the shoulders. I used cocktail sticks cut into 6 mm lengths (the height includes hats) and stuck wire on the sides for arms. According to scale, they were about right. However, on another forum, they were put down as "too skinny". Later, I bought some 6 mm / 1:300 scale figures (SciFi), and they were quite stocky. They weren't exactly works of art, but they were fun to do.   |
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Post by alloydog on Jul 19, 2019 9:17:36 GMT -9
The thread about the 15 mm Orcs got me interested in wargaming with Chronicles of Blood. This time around, I decided to do the scenery first, so the battle field is a bit more interesting. I have so far built the (un)Covered Bridge:   And of course, where you have a bridge, it's not a bad place to have a coach house for the long distance travellers:   I "modded" the Coach house by moving the chimney - it seemed to have a window right where it would run up through the building, so I moved it to a place where I figured it would be more practical. |
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Post by alloydog on Jun 27, 2019 2:46:48 GMT -9
Very nicely done. BTW, AirDave's M113 is roughly Hot Wheels scale - 1/64, but was scaled further to take up available space on one letter-sized page. Not surprised it needed enlarging. I kept the image at the original scale/size, but opted to lengthen and widen it, adding a wheel and doubling the rear doors. Here's the modded image:  The next incarnation will have the running gear recessed under the main body a bit and I was thinking of stealing the "Forest" colour-scheme from Dave's habitat to make the vehicles match. I think having "modular" type vehicles matches the idea of modular buildings, especially if resources and workshop space is limited. |
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Post by alloydog on Jun 27, 2019 2:37:31 GMT -9
I had a bash at another building, this time I stuck two together. This time, I used thinner card (watercolour card) and a slightly different technique: I did only glued the top layer near the base of the model. It made it much easier to fold, though prone to breaking where the detail was narrow strips. But even then, once the main body was fixed, the loose ends glued down nicely. But, with the thinner card, the panels don't stand out so much.  I also had a go at the free cargo-pod. That was a disaster - the card ripped, because I didn't use the tabs, getting the end caps to stick on took about a day per edge (PVA glue dries reeeeeeeeeeeeeally slow) and when I tried super-glue, that was worse (dried too fast and dribbled everywhere.)  The end result looks like the thing broke from it's lifting chains and crashed to the ground, which makes it an excellent "objective marker"!   I'm now thinking that they would make great corridor walls and bulkheads for the interior of the Lev Davidovich Landau... |
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Post by alloydog on Jun 27, 2019 1:57:33 GMT -9
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Post by alloydog on Jun 26, 2019 4:36:41 GMT -9
Well done for making this far! Now you can cruise through life without giving a flying f***! When I hit 50, a couple of years ago, one of my offspring said "Daddy's going to be, like, a hundred years old!" To wit the youngest replied: "Nooooo, he's half way there! Buuu-ut he's livin' on a prayer!". Welcome to the "Coffin Dodgers Club". |
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Post by alloydog on Jun 23, 2019 20:35:48 GMT -9
Hail Hydra! |
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Post by alloydog on Jun 6, 2019 19:12:43 GMT -9
First build! It was quick and easy to put together - well, would have been, if I hadn't "embellished it" (nothing wrong with the model 'as-is', but I just can't leave anything alone...) I printed up two copies. The first formed the base layer, then the second, I cut out bits and pieces, to allow certain details to be raised. The folds and edges are not as crisp as in Dave's photos as I used corragated card (from a box of cat food sachets), for the base and "cereal box" type packaging card for the second/detail layer. I printed it out at 75% to match gthe size of figures I use - The first batch of Gun-crawl Terraforce figures I printed up were about the same size as some GW Imperial Guard figures I had, so I stuck with that scale. The APC is the M113 that appeared on the forum sometime last year. Though I thought it was a bit small for my figures, so I made it longer and wider (it has six road wheels and doors on the top and back are now "double-doors") I will give the bare-card edges of the model a quick run over with some watery paint a bit later. I think for the next one, I will use the thinner card for both layers, but add some re-enforcing bits made from the corragted stuff inside. |
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Post by alloydog on May 31, 2019 5:59:27 GMT -9
PayPal should let you just pay securely with your card as normal, even if you don't have a PayPal account. Yeah, I know it is normally like that, but sometimes there just doesn't seem to be the option, or rather it isn't obvious.  |
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Post by alloydog on May 31, 2019 4:10:16 GMT -9
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I've been looking for similar bases and came across this guy in Arizona that sells similar bases. I haven't ordered from him yet, but thought that it would be worthwhile to post here for posterity. spielpro.com/card-stands/Not a bad idea. I think it's good to keep this sort of thread updated. I had been looking for card stands again - the last lot I got, the supplier didn't do black, which is what I need now. Spiel Pro are in the US, which is OK for US based, but for European based folk, the shipping is quite expensive. 100 stands would have cost USD 7,00 with USD 14,00 shipping. Board Games Extras in UK have some stands: 35 mm round, 18 x 10 mm oval, and 19 x 17 mm rectangular. Shipping to the EUR is about GBP 1,50. Link: www.bgextras.co.uk/card-stands-s6.htmBlank Dice, also in the UK do round 20 mm stands in different colours, for GBP 0,07 / EUR 0,09 each and shipping to Europe at GBP 3,50 / EUR 4,67. Link: www.blankdice.co.uk/Board_game_accessories/23/ - I just tried to buy from this place, but the payment is through PayPal and it kept insisting that I create a PayPal account, which I don't want. I have just sent them a message asking how to pay without having to have a PayPal account. EM4Miniatures have packs of 20x 20 mm round card stands for GBP 1,20. Shipping to the EU was just over GBP 5,00 - so 100 stands would be about GBP 12,00. Again, it seems you can only pay through PayPal. Link: em4miniatures.com/collections/game-components/products/20mm-round-card-stands-x-20-various-colours-black |
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Post by alloydog on May 29, 2019 8:10:35 GMT -9
**BUMP** Still got these. Anyone interested?  |
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Post by alloydog on May 26, 2019 9:53:00 GMT -9
To commemorate the release of Alien, on the 26 th of may, 1979, I give you a Facehuggincincubatingchestburstingfacesmashingcreweating beastie, a bad-ass space chick and her kitty-cat:  |
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Post by alloydog on May 25, 2019 1:35:36 GMT -9
... is a thing. Our house ancient goddess, Maisa, was on the scanner bed. I thought I could get her. However, as the light-bar advanced, she sat up and tip-toed backwards. The result? Modern Art!  |
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Post by alloydog on May 19, 2019 10:56:16 GMT -9
No worries, no hurries. My project progress speeds are less like lightning and more like glacial...
My FoW Stalingrad farm buildings have stalled while I have a build boost for my BnPSM figures.
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