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Post by sammo on Oct 7, 2010 19:43:42 GMT -9
Doesn't the combat vs. role-play focus depend more on the GM and players than the system? Generally that is true. However if the meat of a system revolves around combat, it tends to be more fun to get into brawls, whereas a robust story or social game system encourages that kind of play. Like 4E with it variety of combat abilities and healing surges and all that combat centric mechanics doesn't force you to have combats, but if 2/3 of your character data is based on cracking skulls it makes you want to get into trouble.. Anyway, I suppose this is derailing the thread a bit. I would second the choice of Microlite D20, especially if you are familiar with D20 and like it already. I'd still endorse Savage Worlds as well. Both systems have plenty of potential.
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Post by sammo on Oct 7, 2010 19:33:27 GMT -9
These changes make it look way better...
Keep up the good work.
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Post by sammo on Oct 7, 2010 13:46:29 GMT -9
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Post by sammo on Oct 7, 2010 10:15:06 GMT -9
True. Epic Fantasy does do better in several other systems. However, if you want rules light, book-keeping light, fast and not very detailed fantasy, there's not much that does better. I didn't mean to suggest that Savage Worlds couldn't handle fantasy, it does so rather well, especially for the wandering adventurer campaigns, it just lacks the depth of a lot of other crunchier systems. As for 4E, its a huge debate amongst people that love and people that hate it. As for me I like the way they handle combat (which is the crux of the system) and the abilities/spells system is pretty cool. Still, at the risk of starting a huge debate with someone that loves 4E, I think they sacrificed some depth and flavor in favor of some flash and excitement. It is great for a combat heavy campaign and we had the most fun doing 4E dungeon crawls (because you get many of your abilities back in between encounters). My 2 cents, if you are trying to run an role playing heavy story driven game look elsewhere for a system.
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Post by sammo on Oct 7, 2010 10:08:21 GMT -9
A dumb game with cool pieces. I still have to find a good ruleset to use that ships. word double word... However, if you forget about the gold finding part of the game and just have a last man with ships in the water wins type game, it is not a bad way to whittle away a rainy afternoon.
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 18:48:27 GMT -9
They aren't free, but the Pirates collectible miniatures game has some pretty cool plasti-card ships. If you are just using the minis (and not worried about getting the ships with the best stats) you can likely pick up some for dirt cheap...
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 8:09:49 GMT -9
I think you should slap some camo on them and add aerial units to Armor Grid Mech Attack!
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 8:05:56 GMT -9
Awesome work! and of course the price is right
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 8:01:27 GMT -9
I don't think that Savage Worlds can compete in the epic fantasy department, but it is a easy, fun and versatile system that does a good job of balancing rules light with depth and realism.
What I like the most about it is it fits with all of those offbeat campaign ideas that roll around in my head. Want to play prohibition gangsters rallying against ray gun toting alien invaders...or Nazi vampires vs. Shaolin defenders of light, have at it.
I'll tell you as a longtime GM, its much less bookkeeping and prep time to run Savage Worlds, though I do find more satisfying to run adventures in some other systems (especially for fantasy).
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 7:53:01 GMT -9
I've enjoyed reading this thread as well. My story is much less interesting....
When I was a kid everyone always called me Sammy, and as I grew up I thought it was too childish and insisted people call me Sam instead... well my friends and family just couldn't follow simple directions. So now it's Sammo. Pretty much all my friends and family call me that now, it's more like my name than anything else. It seems like even people I meet wind up picking it up from my other friends, I certainly don't introduce myself as Sammo.
It worked out okay, as it turns out (whether accidental or intentional) as Sam is my first name and mo is the first two letters of my last name, so it seems appropriate. Whenever I sign up for a forum or whatever I usually try sammo first and more often then not it's unused.
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 7:43:43 GMT -9
I'm looking forward to picking these up....I've been looking for an excuse to pick up your sets anyway and this could certainly be it.
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Post by sammo on Oct 6, 2010 7:42:36 GMT -9
I think the only thing that would catch my eye once the mini was printed (and built and sitting on the table 2 feet away) is the perfectly level shields. Rotating and skewing them a tad (as parduz suggests) would certainly make them look more natural. The back of the hand catches my eye as well, but I think it will be much less noticeable when built.
Other than that they look pretty awesome, definitely a good start for an army of humans.
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Post by sammo on Oct 2, 2010 20:08:50 GMT -9
I just got back into town and found my copy waiting for me, when I free up my schedule I'm looking forward to reading it.
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Post by sammo on Oct 2, 2010 20:03:39 GMT -9
I'll have to add a few of these to the build list...awesome job!
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Post by sammo on Sept 24, 2010 7:14:39 GMT -9
I see what you are saying, you have to make dead end hallways (or use the short dead end section) to use the door transition tiles.
I never had this problem, I just skipped the transitions and had the corridors overlap into the room tile 1/2 inch (covering the wall image and making an open archway) then setting 3D doors in place to fill the hole (or in cases leaving it open if there was no door). It sacrifices the perfect 3D view of the walls, but it makes layout much much easier.
The only time I needed the transition pieces was when I was going from room to room without a hallway.
Sounds like you need a new tile that dead ends a hallway, sets a door in the middle and spills into a room. You could probably make one with some dead end pieces, transition tiles and a glue stick, but if you need a bunch of them it might be better to make one digitally.
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Post by sammo on Sept 23, 2010 14:25:54 GMT -9
Alright, I'm in too, just picked up the book (or paid for it anyway, can't wait to get a hold of it, thanks for the free shipping). I'd join those that are urging you to go PDF. If you hadn't become the new alien overlords of OneMonk I probably wouldn't pick up a hard copy of a game that I couldn't at least flip through or demo in my FNGS. Though I guess we don't actually have a FNGS so that argument isn't necessarily accurate. As for the PDF format, for me personally I like the convenience of getting a PDF immediately and perusing it. If I like it I may even buy a hard copy (I did that with Savage Worlds). It is a lot easier to shell out 8-10 bucks for a PDF then it is to cough up 18 for a book (plus shipping when it isn't offered free ) that I have no clue about. As for piracy, those that would pirate the game for free are unlikely to buy a hard copy anyway, so though you might wind up with more "free" copies around, you'll also pick up paying customers that may not spring for the hard copy and wind up making more money anyway. i.e. Pirates don't spend money, so they will never be your customers no matter how much you try and stop their piracy. Just my totally unprofessional, unsubstantiated opinion. I'll let you know what I think of Bellicose when the shiny new book gets here (and I read it).
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Post by sammo on Sept 23, 2010 13:51:14 GMT -9
Perhaps you have been spending a bit too much time behind your computer... Awesome job on the mini! Very Halloweenie
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 13:07:54 GMT -9
I forgot about the clickies, I even have a bunch of them, but whenever I go to use them I use the maps they came with (not very imaginative, but they do fit in the grid).
I suppose I was also really thinking of RPGs more than wargames. When I run an RPG I don’t force a mini to be in a square or hex as it is too rigid (may players often here me say “I’m not going to put a grid on the world, man.”) But giving it further thought there must be many games that really compel a mini to occupy a single square…so my assessment is really just personal preference and probably not indicative of what all the gamers want.
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 12:16:20 GMT -9
@ Sirrob01-
No rush. i wouldn't put it into use for a little while anyway, just curious.
thanks.
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 11:21:03 GMT -9
To my way of thinking; GM's should organise their pieces to be pulled out as players advance and the pieces should disappear when players lose the line of sight. If they didn't map as they went then why should we make it easy for them? I even suggest spinning the room they are in from time to time on the pretext of having more room on the table. Who hasn't gotten disoriented in an unfamiliar building and not known which way they were heading? Keeping a map will solve all their problems, but some will trust to their memories. So be it. I like where you are going with this. I never thought to spin tile placement to disorient the players. I like to make it easy on myself however and there are some other ways to do so and still set up a number of rooms at once. One tactic I like to do is to have a few dungeon chunks that fit together in an odd way. So I can show them one section of dungeon and they know where they are at in that section, but if they don’t map somehow (or pay close attention) they lose track of where they are at in the big picture. Recently (with the layout above) the players had come across a map of the dungeon (which I handed out). Before they arrived at the dungeon I made use of the inked adventures and it altered the layout a little (to make easy use of the tiles). After a few rooms they realized the map they had was off a little form the floor plan I had laid out and stopped using it. However there were several secret areas marked on the players’ map that I hadn’t included in the dungeon layout, since I intended to draw them in as the player’s searched for and discovered their exact whereabouts. In the end the never reffered back to their map and missed the areas. Also, if I do a large layout for a dungeon at once I make sure I only lay out the floor plans and never room contents (which is why the floor plans above are so bare). I also try to do some things unexpectedly, what looks like prison cells might be bedrooms, the “boss” monster is not necessarily in the big room at the end of the dungeon, there are secret areas not included in the initial layout (amazing how a set floor plans puts secret doors off of players’ radars). My 2 cents anyways.
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 10:47:08 GMT -9
I think you are on the right track as far as a printable version goes. I don't know if you could get away from the four legs without sacrificing stability, especially in card stock. I might suggest trying to make an x shaped pillar with a platform on top. It would preclude putting a mini directly under the stand but you could crowd as many as four under it in the recesses. something like this, but with a base to keep it from twisting As a side note, I realize they aren't as economical as a printable flight stand, but litko makes an awesome flight stand that fits a small d6 in the base as an altitude counter. It'll set you back a few bucks but I have some and they work awesome. They've replaced my collection of clear dice boxes for flying minis. see it here www.litkoaero.com/page/LAI/PROD/AFS/AFS014-5
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 10:39:45 GMT -9
Nice looking warband, makes me want to spend at little less time behind my PC and more time with some dice at the table... If only I could figure out how to get out of working and not wind up living in a box downtown.
On a slightly different note. Is there a tutorial somewhere that will show me how to have the cool fade out background on my mini pics? It's a skill I have not picked up yet.
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Post by sammo on Sept 21, 2010 10:37:05 GMT -9
I just picked this up and I must say it is pretty sweet looking.
Despite my high level of anticipation I don't have the time to do a proper print/build right now. I am running a few pages off now to check out the textures and possibly do some experimentation with laminating them to make some durable/dry erase compatible tiles. I'll let you know how it works out.
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Post by sammo on Sept 19, 2010 15:25:16 GMT -9
The cork board with pins idea is intriguing, might be an awesome combination of cheap/sneeze proof. The lamination/ticky tack solution might be the ticket as well. I was able to grab a laminater and like a hundred pouches for like 25 bucks at the Sam's Club recently, I imagine prices are similar elsewhere. I ran through a hundred ideas before making my glass table top. I was toying with the steel/magnet solution (pricing it out I found that it was cheaper to put a magnetic sheet on the table then put the steel on the card stock (using metal roofing shingles). Other ideas included a steel table top with a bunch of the rare earth magnets (the tiny discs) to hold down all the corners, I even almost bought an air hocky table with the idea of inverting the pump so it would suck the cardstock down to the table instead of floating the puck (it sounded awesome, but after some thought I nixed the idea). Foamcore tiles work well, but then agin you have to mount and cut everything so that there is no, print this special tile out and toss it on the table for one game night. Anyway, all of that chatter leads only to the custom gaming top I made to use any tiles. ( cardboard-warriors.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=stats&action=display&thread=2077 ) which isn't a solution for most people. Still one of the things I like most about the inked adventures (aside from the retro artwork) is the fact that it doesn't make use of square tiles that you have to line up with another square tile. I really prefer the individual rooms and corridors, it seems to make for a way easier layout and more versitile too. I think the option I like the best that has been sugest here is the laminiation/ticky tack option. It seems to keep the versatility alive, be cost effective and get tiles form your printer to game table in the quickest amount of time.
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Post by sammo on Sept 19, 2010 9:18:56 GMT -9
As far as any experience I have...
A one inch square or hex (flat to flat) is going to be five feet. At least for modern RPGs played with miniatures. heroscape plays out on a different (larger) hex, same with mech games and some other war-game style stuff.
As far as I'm concerned, one inch grids are the way to go.
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Post by sammo on Sept 18, 2010 8:24:50 GMT -9
Must........possess........multi-layered........terrain hex tiles!
I seriously can't wait for these!! I'll have to make sure I have the supplies on hand to get them on my table ASAP.
Keep up the good work!
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Post by sammo on Sept 16, 2010 13:24:05 GMT -9
I didn't even realize there was a 6th edition... I suppose I am just a little behind the times. Still, Blood Bowl is a ton of fun... Sorry about the link, it works for me, then again it doesn't lead to the 6th edition.
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Post by sammo on Sept 16, 2010 11:02:14 GMT -9
I really want to get a hold of this set I love me some hexes, its so much more intuitive than playing on a grid, regardless of what you are playing.
I hate to even ask (all my projects take way longer than I expect) but any idea of a release date? This set has got my mind churning a hundred miles an hour...so I was wondering how long my waiting will last.
Also does one f the textures match the texture for the Armor Gird terrain set?
At the risk of being the guy that complains about something that he hasn't really ever seen before...right after saying how awesome it is and how bad I want it... One thing that keeps catching my eye when I pull up this page to drool over it is that the water in the river doesn't seem to match the water in the water hexes. Just something I noticed, it certainly isn't detrimental to what is sure to be an awesome set ;D
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Post by sammo on Sept 16, 2010 10:48:29 GMT -9
Now that you mention it they look exactly like opals, never made the connection when I was first viewing the crazy eyes.
These look awesome, you may just convince me to check out Song of Fur and Buttons yet.
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Post by sammo on Sept 16, 2010 10:46:04 GMT -9
Anyone who's interested can find the Blood Bowl Living rules for free here www.bloodbowlonline.com/Rules.shtmlIts kind of like a compendium of all of the Blood Bowl stuff that has piled up over the years. It even has all the stuff to run a league, which is really fun if you have enough committed people to make it work. Me and some friends ran a Blood Bowl season many years ago and it is still one of my fondest non RPG gaming memories. Also, though I haven't read or played it, I have heard good things about ElfBall, which is another fantasy football game system. It's not free though, but I must admit I am curious about the round pitch.
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