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Post by Floyd on Jan 3, 2014 7:08:29 GMT -9
Ah glad to see this happening...
~Will
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Post by Floyd on Dec 19, 2012 8:01:18 GMT -9
Looks very similar to heavy weight tracing/calligraphic velum.
Great application for window details. Backlit displays and possibly even for diffuse lighting in street lamps.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Dec 13, 2012 11:52:55 GMT -9
Oh man too cool! You're art style is so perfect for this!
With the predominately light colored the white outlines simply enhance the look more than AH where its dark and the stark white area around the figures are (imo) actually a detriment.
Off to buy right now!
~Will
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Post by Floyd on Dec 4, 2012 19:13:29 GMT -9
Very nice looking figures!
Impressed! looks like just the right balance of detail, separation & space. None of the detail is over done and lost.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on May 3, 2012 4:16:29 GMT -9
Superglad to see this alive and kicking!
~Fl0yd
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Post by Floyd on Apr 19, 2012 9:27:28 GMT -9
Absolutely amazing! I am impressed with how creative people can get with these legos. And I would absolutely go this route... weren't for the fact that I'd probably have $100 tied up in getting the costly Lego pieces required to make these... LOL ~Fl0yd
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Post by Floyd on Apr 18, 2012 5:23:50 GMT -9
I really like this project being realized. But $100 is wayyyy to steep a entry for me Espeically the the figures only being cardboard. But I'll probably get the PDF when its released. And just use paper minis of mine own for this game. I liked this game so much I had sought out and purchased an app for my old HandspringPDA called SoloTank. Which controlled the AI of the Orge miniature so you could play it out solo. Quite fun. Miss it alot. ~Fl0yd
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Post by Floyd on Apr 13, 2012 5:05:17 GMT -9
Very nice to see a new corridors set. I love your additions... the pipes were a great idea.
I like the slide show presentation and how you provide objective ideas. Makes me wanna try your Core system with GunCrawl v1.
And definitely a fun system for use with FRAG by SJG.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Mar 13, 2012 5:02:53 GMT -9
Great job! I think modifying one for that wrecked rhino scenery is a perfect idea.
Pataroch's stuff is a lot of fun to build. Lots of things to laminate though... lol. I was using cut up sprue ends for rivets...
I've built a couple Land Raiders(old and new variant), a Predator and started a Macharious super tank.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Feb 27, 2012 7:11:24 GMT -9
I'm liking what I see...
Please tell us more...
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Nov 8, 2011 6:08:00 GMT -9
You guys have really brought this piece to life. Especially the glass bead. And the layers of detailing...
Outstanding work.
That entire building deserves this level of detail.
Will
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Post by Floyd on Nov 8, 2011 6:03:46 GMT -9
Ok, have you made you you have "Use Carrier sheet" checked in the settings? I know my first couple of times I tried and failed was because I had loaded the print onto the carrier sheet but forgot to check Use Carrier Sheet, and for some reason it would not Detect properly.
Second thing, are you printing on a shiny or glossy paper stock? If you are there is a possibility the reflective nature of the paper is not allowing the electronic eye to detect the reg marks properly. If this is the case....here are a couple of things you can try:
1. open the cutter cover and try it the detect again. (what we are doing here is trying to see if the ambient light in the room can help over-come the issue. It works sometimes. 2. take a piece of matte clear celephane tape such as the type you use for wrapping presents and lay it over each of the 3 Reg marks. The non-reflective material can help cut down on glare. I've done this for some prints I was cutting that I did on Metallic paper.
After working some of the beginning issues out everything runs pretty smooth. Occasionally I'll have a misalignment or slip or a weird issue off the software deciding I meant A4 instead of USLetter... but it's all part of the process. You will get familiar with the quirks, but it does take a little time. No way around it.
Hope you get your issue resolved. The cutter is a wonderful thing. And not just for cutting out paper minis!
Will
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Post by Floyd on Oct 13, 2011 11:58:05 GMT -9
Congratulations guys! You've put a lot into this and it's nice to see it being recognized!
Cheers, Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Sept 2, 2011 6:32:02 GMT -9
I thought it would make a nice Dice Rolling tray. Has a nice set of drawers for cards and dice. Build a couple for your gaming friends so they will keep from playing figure bowling with the dice and miniatures...
Otherwise, it's an interesting addition to include a functional use for it besides a dice coral. Beautiful texture work and cleaver/solid build. But I'm not rolling any metal dice on it like the promo pic shows...
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Aug 26, 2011 5:33:32 GMT -9
I want to mod this into a whole shopping district. I can see a noodle shop on the bottom and an apartment on top. All kinds of little businesses. Corner grocery shop, liquor store, pachinko parlor etc. Maybe even double wide versions. I immediately thought of a congested, jumbled little settlement full of this sort of stuff too. Nice! I bet the new futuristic vehicle releases by EbblesLabs/WWG would look nice amongst this. Sort of a Bladerunner esque Chinatown meets FifthElement. ~F
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Post by Floyd on Aug 25, 2011 5:58:32 GMT -9
Yes, yes YES! You're really getting that chunky gritty Scifi look now!
All those little greebles got it screaming with detail in that texture work. All complemented by the right amount of Euclidean Geometry! This piece has that monolithic feel of Quake2-3 structures and the apocalyptic griminess of WH40k.
Well done sir, Well done!
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Aug 11, 2011 8:49:28 GMT -9
Decopauge is depth on the Z axis. Depth. 2d flat planes at varying depths.
So layering parts to create the illusion of depth is one way. You could say this method is another way of achieving the same effect as what we are terming 2.5d. Although using the two-together can work even better than one, or the other. And using the layering (usually called Laminating) along with the 3d also achieves the illusion of added complexity.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Aug 10, 2011 9:42:17 GMT -9
Good idea! I'll add the first term: 2.5D - adjective - Using two-dimensional (2D) elements to simulate three-dimensional (3D) forms. This can be accomplished by slotting together 2D shapes at angles, folding and bending 2D shapes beyond their flat plane, or any combination there of. Please feel free to add to, edit, or adjust. Great first choice and excellent definition. I'd add to that : • sometimes referred to as Pseudo 3d. optiononally: (Coined originally from the term used to define certain FPS Computer games such as Doom, Duke3d, et. al) ~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Aug 10, 2011 6:21:12 GMT -9
I've actually been down this road before. I'd like to offer some words of encouragement and experience. 1. Don't feel too dejected if they don't sell as well as you would like at first. You're fighting an uphill battle with the PDF crowd, and this is very much a "you don't know what you're missing until you actually see it in the flesh" sort of thing. Everyone who I sent out test precuts to loved the things, but most of them were in the "not interested" camp before they received their test copies. 2. It's a lot of work. Realistically, you're charging too little for each page right now. It took me several hours to process 64 frames of moderate complexity, and I came to the conclusion that this sort of thing really needs several machines operating in tandem, and this was also why I "invented" the disposable carrier sheet. The more pages there are in the file, the less profitable it is, because you'll reach a point where the labor cost alone exceeds what people are willing to pay for the thing. 3. Paper is heavier than people expect. Shipping won't be cheap, and envelopes do not offer enough protection. The ones I sent out in stiff mailers usually showed up in a pretty chewed-up state, and postmen have this tendency to try and roll up or fold large mailers to fit them into slots and mail cubbies. You need to box them. I liked the variable depth 9.5x12 mailers I used for the purpose. 4. The margins on this sort of thing will be extremely low. Most people get into this hobby because they're...well, not to put too fine a point on it, a bit frugal. You can't charge a lot before people start resisting, and that includes shipping costs. You can't really sink shipping into margins, so you either need to subsidize it with download sales or accept that you're going to lose money from the get-go. 5. Your first customers are going to come from a market that's filled with unrealistic expectations. You need a plan to deal with replacement frames (because paper models are easier to mess up than plastic models, and people will expect you to replace them because that comes with the PDF mindset), and many of these people will also balk at the thought of buying replacements. (PDFs are a buy-once kind of thing, it's hard to shake that expectation.) 6. Things will seem a bit slow in the beginning. Your initial market will consist of people who are already biased towards preprinted/precut models and people who are curious. Word of mouth may result in more people taking a chance on the preprint/precut models, but you may want to consider targeting a different market entirely. Take PaperTerrain as an example--they don't do PDFs at all, and they do enough business off the "I hate PDF" crowd that it's a full time thing for them. Be prepared to accept that this is a product best aimed at a different market, and manage your marketing strategy accordingly. I think that's it for now. If you have any other questions, I'll try and answer them to the best of my ability. Invaluably good advice Mel. I hadn't considered replacement frames for screw ups... that's a really good point. And one that could become overwhelmingly cumbersome very quickly. How does one handle that so that : 1. You don't get the unscrupulous whom want an entire extra model for free ? 2. For the honest bloke whom really did either receive a damaged set or was just ham handed in its assembly. The way I see it to my untrained eye you could have them send back the damaged piece for a 1:1 replacement. Or I guess they could photograph the damaged frame and e-mail it. - The ham handed situation might be a case where... the customer would need to pay for a per-frame replacement. But later, if business is good, it might be better to just replace the frame for them for free or for just shipping charges. And where would you see a sweat spot in # of machines/cost effective? 3 cutters? Anymore than 3 I would imagine you are entering into the realm of $$$ where purchasing a 24"-31" cutter (cheap ones around $300) and either getting rolls printed or mounting the individual pages to be cut, would be a serious consideration. But beyond the means of the average hobbyist/entrepreneur. Speaking of markets... Anything that's made of paper, especially thin card such as this I would be hesitant to pay a lot for because of its delicate nature (And because I am a hobby gamer/modeler with easy access to Laser prints. And now a cutter. And a desire to do both...) The next level up from Cardstock terrain is GW Card buildings and Terrlinx pre-prints. They are a level greater in durability. And I would consider both to be just one step below a molded piece of terrain (plastic/resin). Less durable than resin/cast stuff. But with careful care should last many years. I still have all my card terrain from GW 1990s) and its all still in fine condition. The biggest benefits of this of course being pre-printed, pre-cut ready to assemble nature. So I am not the target market. I imagine the target market is the guy/girl whom wants a nice set of terrain for their games. But has neither the inclination, time or money to create, print, paint their own. But wants to get something that's ready to go(or nearly ready to go out of the box) and for a price point which meets the perception. Most likely the Gamer/Game Master/Family guy and less the modeling hobbyist. I might enter Game Designer and Store owner as well. AS this would be a great low-cost, high visual appeal for getting your games demo'd at conventions and game clubs. ~Just thinking out loud~ apologies for any jumps in logic. Floyd ~~ also, I will be buying some sets because I support the hobby. And it would be nice to not have to print/cut everything all the time. :-)
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Post by Floyd on Aug 9, 2011 5:24:33 GMT -9
I am really liking this. Your art/figures look really nice in this design.
How big are these cards going to be? If they are anywhere near CCG size...All the small type for talents and gear may be hard to read. Consider possibly a generic sheet for power reference or make the type as larger as possible. Condense some of it where possible.
Aesthetically(my opinions)
• fill that header space with his name "Monster Hunter". Keep HERO smaller just as you have it. • Italicize the flavor text
Looking real nice!
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Aug 9, 2011 5:10:20 GMT -9
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Post by Floyd on Aug 5, 2011 9:10:17 GMT -9
A few helpful souls pointed me in the right direction with my issue. Which as it turned out ended up being something I did with the Cut File. It looked right on the screen, lined up proper, but the cut would be off.
I've since redid the process. And have not had any issues at all. And I've done 10 or so different prints and cut paths.
I would like to actually know how the Calibration system works since I could not get it to really work. But I was warned off of it and only to use it as a last resort.
So I say check your print out, make sure it's not the printer that's slightly stretching/condensing the print. Make sure the cut path file is right. And work from that side. Especially when you say it's on and off for you. That definitely sounds more like print alignment issues.
As a note, I've only been using the provided carrier sheets. I tried a homemade one following some instructions but it repeatedly failed to recognize the Reg marks. So I'll use the provided sheets till I get a chance to take my time and properly test a homemade carrier sheet.
~Floyd
ps. Seems no way around the few hour learning curve. Even reading all the tutorials... But I am happy with the Silhouette Design Studio software. But if I could import Vector paths from Illustrator or Photoshop I'd save myself some serious time. (Most of the things I am doing requires precise work and so I simply draw all the cuts by hand).
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Post by Floyd on Aug 2, 2011 4:05:52 GMT -9
Those Revorama backdrops are made for those Revoltech Articulated Anime Robot figures. About the size of a standard Action figure.
~Fl0yd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 30, 2011 18:36:47 GMT -9
Hmm... Cutter seems to always be around 1-2mm off on the far end of the paper when it's cut. Predictably so. Followed the Calibration window in the new Silhouette Studio 1.7.1 and it was off. But sliding the adjustment window made no difference. Weird. Cannot find anything on the new Calibration system either on the various forums on the nets... anyone else had any luck?
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 29, 2011 8:06:08 GMT -9
Can I just have the Giant Inflatable Pig?
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 28, 2011 17:00:15 GMT -9
Very nice slide shows and renders.
That last frame in the Factory slide show reminds of images of the Battersea Powerstation in England.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 28, 2011 4:51:40 GMT -9
Your modern series is outstanding. I am really digging each one. They fill a niche that doesn't exist either.
Great work man! You are on a roll! I hope you are selling alot of these!
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 27, 2011 8:50:19 GMT -9
I've just got my silhouette today. Since they finally released the OS x version of the software... I bit the bullet. I've also got a small gig doing repro decals for toys.
Pouring over the tutorials and topics. I hope(they seem)to still apply to the creation of cut files.
Fingers crossed that all of this reading will not still net me the 6hrs of frustration people seem to be dealing with on initial setup.
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 14, 2011 5:08:51 GMT -9
This is excellent!
~Floyd
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Post by Floyd on Jul 7, 2011 3:52:35 GMT -9
Hidden treasures all over this message board!
Kudos BilliamBabble and Eddnic for sharing some awesome!
~Floyd
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