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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 3, 2010 7:25:17 GMT -9
You're welcome again. One thing to remember is that this is just 'A' process that I'm currently favoring. The Desaturation layer isn't explicitly necessaary in any recoloring, I just like to play with it. You can just paint directly over the previous colors of a model, I do recommend using different layers for each color you use and to play with the blending modes and opacity level on each of those layers.
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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 2, 2010 9:42:25 GMT -9
Happy to oblige. ;D For those who have had trouble re-coloring and want to learn a process here is what I did. - As much as possible I wanted to preserve Drywe's original work in terms of line and shading. - First I opened the pdf at 300 dpi in Photoshop. Then I used image adjusments to desaturate the base layer. Then I opened the original pdf again into a new layer. The new layer became Original:Color, the base one became Original:Desaturated. -Between the two layers with figures I made two more layers called Red & Purple, set their blending modes to multiply, and reduced their opacity to about to about 80% on each. -On the red layer I painted over everything I wanted to be red, selected it all with the magic wand selection tool, deleted those areas from the layer Original:Color. Did the same for purple. The multiplied colors over the desaturated original allowed elements of the original shading and coloring to show through and blend with the new colors. -The skull decal I found for free on the web, lots of free skull art out there. -I was going to do some more highlighting, I did a little on the Captain's helmet plume, but decided not to as I didn't want to make big changes to somebody else's work. So instead I created a levels adjustment layer above all the color work layers and below the skulls decal layer and pulled up the brightness and deepened the darker colors. This allowed the original shading to show through my re-coloring better and made the re-colors more vivid. Have fun!
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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 2, 2010 7:51:31 GMT -9
LOL! Even the beer is evil! Thanks, that was my favorite in this set, "Hey guys, what are we doing? Conquering the world again?"
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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 1, 2010 21:54:36 GMT -9
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Post by old squirmydad on Feb 1, 2010 9:41:47 GMT -9
Not familiar with the Zhentarim, or really and D&D settings anymore...did you mean something like this? If so, I can have these done by monday evening. Eric (who needs a break from staring at the RoboMaster program) These look great, Eric. I would eliminate the Zhentarim symbol; both because it opens up having other people use your newly recolored versions for various purposes, and because, to be honest, I've never liked nor used either of those symbols. I use the symbol of the god Cyric, which is simpler, more medieval looking and more intimidating. forgottenrealms.wikia.com/wiki/File:Cyric_symbol.jpgA simple skull would do; or no symbol at all is fine too, if that's easier. Beggers can't be choosers Thanks, Eric. cheers, Skull it is then. They'll just be generically evil.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 31, 2010 18:05:51 GMT -9
Not familiar with the Zhentarim, or really and D&D settings anymore...did you mean something like this? If so, I can have these done by monday evening. Eric (who needs a break from staring at the RoboMaster program)
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 29, 2010 14:36:52 GMT -9
Run, run as fast as you can! The Crypt Worm is mostly a CraftRobo cut job, the teeth were not laid out in a way that would have cut nicely so they were done by hand. I need to make another one now with the head in a different pose.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 29, 2010 12:48:52 GMT -9
Very COOL! I can't wait to see more! What does the back view look like? I'm picturing vectored thrust engines... I'm curious too, does it have a long tail to stabilize the large-ish crew compartment?
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 29, 2010 7:55:56 GMT -9
Great pics, SD! She's very cute, and the horde is pretty impressive too. It's great to see kids taking up the interests of their parents. -Pb Uhm, that's only 2/3 of the Wastelands horde...I've instructed her not to get out everything at once. So not pictured is the Goblinoid horde, Elf horde, Dwarf horde, fantasy adventure horde, sci-fi troops horde, super-huge undead horde, and Horde Of Minis That Haven't Been Edged Yet. One other nice thing about the cutter is that small hands, like my kids have, have difficulty cutting out models and miniatures and it can be quite frustrating for them to not have the needed level of precision and speed to keep up with their dad's quality. My son wants Star Wars terrain so I've pulled some things off the web and am in the process of setting up the cutting files for him. Building is something that they're much happier with, especially when the scoring is also already done.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 28, 2010 10:04:09 GMT -9
Slick miniatures has quietly launched another set of SF troops, here's the ad copy; N.C.C. O.D.A.T. Units are the airborne division of the N.C.C. Army. Dropped from orbit they use a heat shielded inflatable ballute to survive reentry then they can land in the heat of the battle as well as us there jet packs to advance on enemy position or navigate tough terrain.
There are a total of 16 models in the set. You get 8 individual figures in both running and flying poses. Each figure is equipped with a SMG, a CQC weapon and a jet pack. There are two colors in the file NCC blue and Camo. Also included is a blank set yo color as you wish and the vector parts for you to create your own troops. Each set comes with front and back artwork and is rendered in 300dpi.www.rpgnow.com/product_info.php?products_id=78428&src=FrontPageThe camo versions are still my favorite. ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 27, 2010 16:31:33 GMT -9
I'm launching into converting all of the Hybrid forces tonight, there's a force that calls out for automated cutting in a big way; curvy and spiky. I thought of this thread today as I was building the Medieval Walls set - which is all big, straight lines and simple shapes. I used my knife and ruler for that one and the only part where I'd have liked a robot to step in and do my cutting was on all of the open railings as that is a tedious section of the model, much like all the open railings in WWG's Swampworks set, which robot pal did cut for me.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 27, 2010 14:32:42 GMT -9
Very refreshing. I finally got some time to start work on building this set and I love all the wall and weathering options. It goes together very cleanly and easily and the hollow walls are just big enough for me to insert foamcore so it's quite sturdy too.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 24, 2010 15:21:35 GMT -9
This is the other reason for speed and quantity in my house; Very often I'll be working away on some project and she'll be behind me quietly building a whole universe of bugs, squids, angels, demons, ponies, radioactive zombies, and turtles.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 24, 2010 13:47:05 GMT -9
Sorry, I had to ask. I haven't looked at the TOA (not the Tau (tm)) in a while, and you're right; the backs are just a tiny bit smaller in the Pathfinder and Stealth team miniatures I'm looking at. Measuring it in Photoshop I see the back height on one mini to be 33.7mm and the front to be 34mm, this is measuring inside the black border. That tiny scaling shrinkage is evident in all of the minis I measured, peculiar. These minis also don't have the characteristic thick black back border that exists to help fudge alignment issues. Not really sure what you can do, select all the back sides and increase by 1%? I doubt seriously Jim will be revisiting these minis, best of luck!
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 23, 2010 21:31:52 GMT -9
I'm feeling pretty confident that the Tau models don't actually match up front to back...can post some pics of what I mean if needed... Uhm, you do know the front and back borders are different widths? Just in case you haven't made One-Monk paper miniatures before; 1-bubble cut the whole mini 2-score and fold on the center red line 3-glue front and back together (glue-stick works well here) 4-cut out mini using the black border on the front as a guide The type of paper used shouldn't have an effect on the alignment. If that's not it then a pic would certainly help.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 23, 2010 18:02:23 GMT -9
Yup, what you want is Canon Matte photo paper. It's about 65lb stock, has an A side and a yellowy side, bit pricey, absolutely gorgeous and quite sturdy for paper miniatures. ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 23, 2010 8:45:30 GMT -9
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 22, 2010 18:46:16 GMT -9
I find it very relaxing to watch it work while I'm drinking coffee. ;D The cutting was always a monotonous, and now painful due to arthritis in my wrist, chore part of model and miniature assembly. So many cool things I want to build and play with, so little time, so aggravating to have it taken up by cutting, and cutting, and cutting... I've always enjoyed battle and skirmish games over rpg's so I've been having tons of fun assembling hordes of goblins, orcs, kobolds, dwarves, elves, and Undead Legions. Likewise, MelEbbles launched a line of terrain (battlemats and hills) that I probably wouldn't have assembled if my robo-cutter hadn't cut it for me. To each their own.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 22, 2010 7:43:48 GMT -9
Hey WaffleM, would you like some GSD layout templates? I can send you the robomaster One-Monk master layout and the accompanying pdf that you can open in your paint program for layout work. It makes things a lot easier to convert later if they are laid out in a robo-friendly fashion from the start. LMK. ;D edit> I should check my PM's more often. Sent!
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 21, 2010 18:32:44 GMT -9
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 21, 2010 11:50:18 GMT -9
Thanks for the updates, I'm looking forward to purchasing this game. Also, will you be making the infantry available in 28/30mm scale? I would also purchase those.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 21, 2010 10:22:56 GMT -9
Hi all, I've just reposted the Workbench section of my site which has a number of airship papermodels that I never completed. They've all been test-built though and the builds check out fine, they're just lacking in terms of texture and details. If there are graphically minded people who'd like to complete the texture work and could snap a photo of the finished model, then I'd be happy to host the finished piece and I'd be able to move the models from the Workbench to the finished Downloads area for all to enjoy. Thanks, Eric
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 19, 2010 10:21:11 GMT -9
Six-pack of draft horse with automated cutting file now available at my site. Thanks Xtea! ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 19, 2010 10:12:51 GMT -9
Excellent! Now about those werewolves.... ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 17, 2010 11:30:18 GMT -9
Thanks, I'll try to add it today.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 13, 2010 16:30:30 GMT -9
Parduz, Can't say I've experience the problems you describe, but what I do is I open the pdf's in Photoshop at 300 dpi and cut, paste, and rearrange all the minis to fit on the page. I'm quite certain you can do the same thing in Gimp. I only use acrobat for printing pdf's.
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 13, 2010 16:26:28 GMT -9
I vote for the "Godson Arms" as a moniker. ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 22:26:36 GMT -9
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 22:14:07 GMT -9
docryder is right. "Boo-hoo, our CO 2 is gonna destroy the planet!" When Yellowstone blows, the whole United States will go with it, and it won't be a matter of decades. It'll be a matter of hours. Meanwhile, have fun! Steve Another great reason to live in Alaska. ;D
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Post by old squirmydad on Jan 11, 2010 13:37:10 GMT -9
Texture file goes at the bottom, base shapes in the layers above, turn on a layer, hit 'save as pdf' action, turn off layer, turn on next layer, repeat.
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